Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Different ignition Rmk 800

Hi!
Im from Sweden so you must forgive me for my bad english and spelling..

My first post on this forum, can´t get any answers from Swedish forums so:

My D8 2010 seems to have some difference between the cylinders, one sparking plug is more white and the other is perfectly light brown.
I use a SLP singlepipe set and PCV. Doesn´t matter if i use dynomaps or Slp maps. In the Slp maps there are different numbers between the cylinders. Why?
Does it compensate for something and should i add more fuel to just one cylinder to fix this problem?
Is it common?
 
My 07 dragon 700 did this pto cylinder looked leaner, white compared to mag side, happened all of a sudden, warranty replaced 4 injectors, and plug colour went back to normal, both same brown colour.
 
If the PCV will let you trim that cyl to add fuel, do it. I'd also make sure that your O-rings on the airbox are going on correctly.
 
My 07 dragon 700 did this pto cylinder looked leaner, white compared to mag side, happened all of a sudden, warranty replaced 4 injectors, and plug colour went back to normal, both same brown colour.

I doubt that Polaris will be as forgiving on replacing parts as they were a year ago.
 
Thanks for the replys!

Could it be related to some problem with the exhaust valves?

Btw im running the pcv with the latest ecu update. Maybe that causes problems? The pcv maps isn´t made for that late flash i guess.
 
I would go back to doing an old school plug check in the different rpm ranges to find out where it is too lean and add fuel.
 
I would go back to doing an old school plug check in the different rpm ranges to find out where it is too lean and add fuel.



X2^^^^^, if you have the ability to tune each cylinder. It may be the latest 2010 flash that is doing this. I had the same problem with a D8turbo that went bloody lean on the pto side after reflash.(yellow injectors) Confirmed with Travis at OVS that they have noticed the same thing and are having to update their fuel controllersaccordingly. I think mine was running lean enough on the pto to cause some detonation. Glad i had EGT's along with A/f gauge to see it.
 
Ok, thank you all for the replys!
I will try the original 2010 flash. Since ive got a superb dealer i have one extra ecu with the original flash.
If that doesnt help ill try the hard way to check the plugs in different rpms anf try to fix it with the pcv.
Its the cylinder on the same side as the magnapull.
Does anyone know wich fueltable in slps map controls wich cylinder? so i dont have to try that one out also..
 
I think that each table is for each injector it says cylinder 1-4 not sure which injectors

Yea 4 tables for 4 injectors. I dont have the map in front of me, but if I remember right, tables 1 and 2 are for your upper injectors and cover your low end, and tables 3 and 4 are for your lower injectors and cover top end. And I believe the line is drawn at 40% throttle. I have it written in the notes section. I'll double check when I get home. This is the SLP #70-216 map that I'm thinking of.
 
Yes, the tables 3 and 4 are for the top end, but i need to know which one of 3 and 4 controls which cylinder. I have to make a different curve for each cylinder.

Table 3. left? Table 4-right?
 
Got an answer from slp, table 2 and 4 controls the injectors on the mag side cylinder. And table 4 is the more lean table so maybe i can fix the problem there.
but first, look for airleaks and change to the old 2010map.
 
Keep in mind you need to find out at what RPM this is taking place. Just shutting off your sled after any random run will confuse your spark plug reads. Also note your plug gaps...24 thous for that sled gives you a pretty consistant report and it's weirdly important. Replace the plugs gapped as well as double checking for a good seal on everything. Then retest.

If you are tearing along and then idle down to a stop to read your plugs you have no idea what was actually going on.

You have to kill the ignition exactly where you want to read the plug and you need to have a duration of event (lower RPM's take longer higher doesn't) to get consistant and thought to be accurate results. If you test this out you should be able to see which injector could be at issue. Another perfect example of the benefits of an EGT. If you had one and knew what the reports meant you can see variations in heat reports and isolate issues. Makes things tons easier to deal with.

Be sure that the mag side top end (injector 4) really is lean by reading your plugs at 7500 RPM...8000RPM....and full out 8200RPM starting at 5 second consistant pulls then graduate to ten seconds if you are seeing safe plug reads. Be sure you really have a good grasp on plug reading as there is more then the body color of the plug or ring. magnifier/light/knowledge It could be lean at 7500 and back to perfect at 8000. Seen this often!
 
Thanks for the advice!
I replaced the ecu with the 11/1 map to one with the original 2010 map. I gave injector 4 more fuel 7750-8200.
The plugs now have the same color, but they are just on the edge of being a bit to light i think. Pretty cold today, -15-20c. About 500 meters above sea evel.

But another problem: the check engine lamp is flashing from around 7000 and up, when i slowly accelerate it starts to light and continues all the way up to maximum rpm, it wont shut off until i release the throttle.
It doesnt get in to the safe mode and i dont feel any lose of power in the engine.

Seems like it starts when the injectors change. Should i just try to fix this with the pcv and give the injector tables more gas?
Or could it be another problem?
 
just got out to WY today, and just started having the exact same problem from 6900 -7200 rpms on slow acceleration. am also scratching my head. i will be calling jim tomorrow morning to see about curing this with PCV map, or if its something else. i will also check to make sure my PC V is in wokring order, and also check my TPS.
 
talked to Jim @ DTR and he rec'd adding 10-15% more fuel in the range that is causing the light to come on. highlight the area that you wish to add fuel to, and click "page up" 1x for every % more fuel you want to add to the map.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top