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different clutch weights rons/mtx's/ ect ect

4

440dart

Well-known member
iam currently running heavy hitters i really like these weights because they are so easy to adjust all you need is an allen wrench unscrew put new screw in and your done. have any of you guys had exsperiences with these weights i hear alot of talk about mtxs and rons weights nothing about heavy hitters:confused:

my type of rideing is mainly boondocking so i need that quick acceleration
75% boondocking 25%hillclimbing
 
There's a guy around here running healclickers, and his sled runs like a raped ape. Guys running stock weights are no competition for him. It's not even close. Seems far fetched that they would make that big of a difference, but they seem to work. His brother has the same sled, both bought new on the same day, before the one put in healclickers they were neck and neck, every time. Like you would expect, after installing his weights the stock sled is nowhere close. Temped to try a set my self seeing how they are working for him.
 
iam new to the clutching game pretty much got the secondarys figured out but the different primary weights are getting a little confuseing with all the different types
 
Yeah same. Never was one for fine tuning clutching. Till now I have just put in the right gram stock weights, and maybe helix, but never really tried to get the most out of it. It gets expensive trying all the different set ups...
 
iam not trying to get the perfect setup just a good all around setup i just think there is alot more to be had in my setup it ripped pretty could last year she would hold er own against 800cc sleds with 174 and there makeing more tourqe then my 700.
 
I ran the heel clicker drag and fly weights the last two years. I got them to rip ;), but had some concerns with the design and the amount of rotating mass I added to the clutch. I found they act somewhat like a teeter totter where the shoulder hole and the center had to be about the same weight. They pretty much cancel each other out. Talked with a couple of other people that verified this as well. I had to run them very heavy and noticed a slight notch starting to develop in the weight where they engage the roller. Heard this was also common.
After meeting Lon who designed the heavy hitters I decided to try them this season. I don't see an advantage to the MTX or other weights over the heavy hitters. They are all good, so save your money. As long as you can adjust them they seem to be winners. I do think the heavy hitters offer slightly more adjust ability than the MTX, but typically it's not an issue. On my sled there was a casting ridge in the clutch that I had to modify for clearance of the center weight location. Not a big deal, but not everyone is comfortable doing that kind of thing.
I had MTX on my 03 and tuned them to great success too. Can't really say anything bad about any of them. Quite a few guys on here loving those as well.
Ron's weights have generated some fans too. I will let him chime in a give you a sales pitch. :beer;
 
well thats good to know that i didnt waste any of my money because i really like them i dont have to mess with rivits or any of that crap i just get out my allens unscrew it put my heavyer/lighter allen screw in and iam good to go
 
yeah what weights what helix, i beleive iam the only one running a d7 with twins to put me more out of the norm iam running a 174 on a 700 for me to spend $100 for a helix based on a guess isnt going to work for me. after calling them "carls" and asking some questions about my twins and the guy told me they wouldnt make much power over a single because i didnt have porting, then i told him ive already ran them for 600mi and its night and day difference over the single he didnt say much. they will get you close with a more common setup like a d8 with 163 camo ect. iam not bashing just not totally convinced there tottaly there for you more to make some $
 
When it comes to clutching there is no miracle setup or magic potion. Much like your underwear it is personal preference. :eek: What I like in a setup may not be to your liking. I tried some of the Carl's components the first season and thought everyone was out of their mind for liking that. :p It just didn't suit my riding style. Doesn't mean it was a bad setup. As well, a helix that works well with a 10 series weight doesn't necessarily mean it will compliment a heavy hitter or MTX. There are many different roads leading to the same end result with clutching.
What is your sled doing or not doing now that you would want to improve on? Sometimes if you can give us some of that info along with your current setup including weight locations we can make better suggestions. :)
Things such as more or less back shift. Is it turning the proper RPM? Or, do you want to smooth out your engagement?
 
primary
heavy hitters started with 65g by the end of the year 58 i figured it to be my belt causeing me to loose clutch weight to keep r's up 1000mi on my belt
stock spring 140-330 you would be surprised by how much low end i have with the twins barely a difference compared to a slp single that i had

secondary
black with red stripe spring
64-40-46

i know there is more left in it because my secondary still gets hot with venting i have yet to get it on snow this year and my engine will be alighned this year wich should help with the heat problem. I talked to another guy on here he suggested for me to run a 58-38 helix with black purple spring since i need quick acceleration.



my style of rideing is heavily treed areas just what my area gives me:D

any twinpiped d8s want to chime in on there clutching prefer 163s/174
 
You've already got the helix so get ahold of Ron for his custom weights. You'll be very suprised!
primary
heavy hitters started with 65g by the end of the year 58 i figured it to be my belt causeing me to loose clutch weight to keep r's up 1000mi on my belt
stock spring 140-330 you would be surprised by how much low end i have with the twins barely a difference compared to a slp single that i had

secondary
black with red stripe spring
64-40-46

i know there is more left in it because my secondary still gets hot with venting i have yet to get it on snow this year and my engine will be alighned this year wich should help with the heat problem. I talked to another guy on here he suggested for me to run a 58-38 helix with black purple spring since i need quick acceleration.



my style of rideing is heavily treed areas just what my area gives me:D

any twinpiped d8s want to chime in on there clutching prefer 163s/174
 
Ron's Weights

I will second Ron's weights, last year I may have been one of the first paying customers. I told Ron my weight, the altitude I would be riding at and what my sled had for mods (SLP can only). He nailed the weights perfectly and my sled ran flawlessly. Thanks again Ron!

Lano
 
I have an 09 with SLP pipe and cold air kit. I am using stock gearing 19/41, Ron's weights (yes they work awesome Ron!!) around 66 grams I think, he can help with that. SLP Blue/Pink primary spring, Carl's helix, stock black/purple sec. spring, 2 delrin washers in secondary. Make sure your primary belt side clearance is set. Most don't do it, it's worth it. I have mine at .015".
I ride from 2500 at the truck to 8K, generally want the sled to work best at 6-8K the rest I can work with. I ride fresh powder as much as possible.
RESULTS - This is the best running sled I have ever ridden. I have been mountain riding for 15+ years. It is crisp and snappy all through the range and has tons of legs on the top end. Runs 8200ish all day. Great on fuel, clutches are cool, belt looks great, I have lots of venting.
Just for FYI on new update, I used Polaris Blue in the first tank, premixed 1/2 qt. of Blue in the first tank of 91 premium. I unplugged the fuel wires for break-in(still unplugged at 230 miles). Warmed up sled to 110 degrees then shut it off, let it heat soak while I gear up. Then rode it, easy for the first couple miles of the trail, normal the rest of the way, 15K or so, always varying the throttle (I always ride this way, never hold the throttle steady for long periods). Once I got to the alpine I rode it like I normally do, lots of varied throttle, a couple decent length pulls by mid day for sure, we had 1 1/2 ft of fresh.
Sled works amazingly well, I would not hesitate to run this combo, you will smile all day. Starts cold, starts warm, runs clean, seems as strong or stronger than my 900 and I had a very strong running 900 as a comparison.
If you don't have the SLP stuff, just let Ron know on the weights, he may or may not take some weight out but should be very close, everything else is fine.
Search for user name "Ron" on here and you will find him.
Enjoy!!
 
I have an 09 with SLP pipe and cold air kit. I am using stock gearing 19/41, Ron's weights (yes they work awesome Ron!!) around 66 grams I think, he can help with that. SLP Blue/Pink primary spring, Carl's helix, stock black/purple sec. spring, 2 delrin washers in secondary. Make sure your primary belt side clearance is set. Most don't do it, it's worth it. I have mine at .015".
I ride from 2500 at the truck to 8K, generally want the sled to work best at 6-8K the rest I can work with. I ride fresh powder as much as possible.
RESULTS - This is the best running sled I have ever ridden. I have been mountain riding for 15+ years. It is crisp and snappy all through the range and has tons of legs on the top end. Runs 8200ish all day. Great on fuel, clutches are cool, belt looks great, I have lots of venting.
Just for FYI on new update, I used Polaris Blue in the first tank, premixed 1/2 qt. of Blue in the first tank of 91 premium. I unplugged the fuel wires for break-in(still unplugged at 230 miles). Warmed up sled to 110 degrees then shut it off, let it heat soak while I gear up. Then rode it, easy for the first couple miles of the trail, normal the rest of the way, 15K or so, always varying the throttle (I always ride this way, never hold the throttle steady for long periods). Once I got to the alpine I rode it like I normally do, lots of varied throttle, a couple decent length pulls by mid day for sure, we had 1 1/2 ft of fresh.
Sled works amazingly well, I would not hesitate to run this combo, you will smile all day. Starts cold, starts warm, runs clean, seems as strong or stronger than my 900 and I had a very strong running 900 as a comparison.
If you don't have the SLP stuff, just let Ron know on the weights, he may or may not take some weight out but should be very close, everything else is fine.
Search for user name "Ron" on here and you will find him.
Enjoy!!

The set up on my '09 D8 163 is very similar to yours. It is a Dragon on steroids. It runs that well. I also agree that this is the best running sled I have owned by far. Locally my dealer put in about 30 2010 update kits. To the best of my knowledge nobody is having any issues. A few sleds are running better than most, but I attribute that to SLP pipe and clutching work. Same thing applies to the new 2010's that have been sold. The area that I live in was not good on the 08/09 D8's. They ran like s**t. The 2010 update has more than done its job here. Nothing but good news here, thank god!!!!:):):)
 
PM Ron

To get a hold of Ron PM him and he will respond. My 2009 has the update I have a tank of fuel through it. Occasionally get the mid-range stumble but I am in MN (low elevation). Headed out to CO end of Jan. can not wait.

Lano
 
So what's the deal on Rons weights? Not asking him to spill the beans on his secret but does he make his own weights like Cutler or Straightline or what?
Curve?

RS
 
I won't steal all Ron's thunder but he makes a true custom weight based on your particular sled and riding parameters to maximize the potential of this combo. Can't speak for anyone else other than maybe myself and Gerrman but they flat out work, I could not be happier with this set-up.
Hope you're OK with that answer Ron. ;)
 
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