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Difference between mtntk fix kit and copies

I am looking into fix kits for my 2008 800 dragon rmk. I was looking on e-bay and found a couple kits and I don't know if they are original mtntk kits and if not if they would work just as well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dragon-Save...65858&pt=Snowmobile_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-SNO...44383&pt=Snowmobile_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr


Should I spend the extra money and bye the system I know is proven? Or should I just jump in and see what happens. I just won this thing fixed now for good :(
 
The best performance and dependability gain is the Northstar kit. But it's the most money. All are better than stock. I think all three great kits.
 
Thanks for the input guys I'll be doing some shopping for the mtn. tec today. I also read somewhere that the Namura kit has "OEM style pistons" :O we all know which road that takes us
 
have you talked to indy dan at indy specialties yet?

he has a complete motor deal that has a warranty

I got a TM1 from him for my 900 RMK.....runs awesome and its great to know if something does break, it'll get fixed
 
Fix Kit

We have installed plenty of mtntech fix kits from PMS Polaris in the last 2 years. None have come back to haunt us. If your sled is bone stock, no fuel controller is required. The excellent tech support from PMS is worth the money, IMO.
 
Hey Bossman,

I'm debating doing the fix it kit on my 09' D8 with 845 miles. Will I need to send out the cylinders? Sled still runs great at the moment this is a preventative move. I've been reading and reading and some guys say the fix it kits dont solve the real issues with these motors only give you a few more miles before they eventually pop. Your comments are refreshing as you say none of your sleds have come back yet with failures. What type of tech support is needed with these kits?

Thanks
 
I put the mtnteck kit in my 09 last year as precaution before something really expensive happened. In that time 2 of my friends 800's went down. Both are wishing they did the same as me.

I looked at the cheaper kits, but after lots of research and questions I decide to go with mtnteck. Cheaper will always cost you more in the long run. Better to do it right the first time
 
MTNTK's Fix Kit in stock

We have just received 100 kits in stock today 1-8-13 for the
2008-2010 dragons or RMK's if you need any info you can email
contact mtntkdyno@gmailcom for help or questions.

Thanks to all of you for the great comments
 
So nobody can say what the difference is? Extra 135 bucks to zinc plate? Possibly the mnt fix kit grinds the spacer flat where the cheaper kit takes no time to make it flat? Would be interesting to know. Are the pistons the same?
 
This is probably more of a question for PMSPOLARIS but I am curious what the fix kit does to the fueling so that the lean areas are no longer a concern?



We have installed plenty of mtntech fix kits from PMS Polaris in the last 2 years. None have come back to haunt us. If your sled is bone stock, no fuel controller is required. The excellent tech support from PMS is worth the money, IMO.
 
http://www.mtntkperformance.com/

http://www.mtntkperformance.com/

Check MTNTK's website for answers the Fix Kit
But yes the MTNTK pistons are the key here they are a special made piston from wiseco that nobody else can buy except from MTNTK's over 50 dealers nationwide and in Canada. These so called copycat's use a different piston that is significantly cheaper but if your going through all of the trouble and money to fix the issues is an extra $130 or $180 or whatever is that worth another burn down. Well i would think so, and most others that are on Snowest and have used this kit are happy with MTNTK's Fix Kit.

Hope this helps
 
Boost no problem

MTNTK's fix kit came from turbo builders, MTNTK builds the BIG BOOST TURBO. It will be a good choice for you and your turbo.
 
The explanation

So nobody can say what the difference is? Extra 135 bucks to zinc plate? Possibly the mnt fix kit grinds the spacer flat where the cheaper kit takes no time to make it flat? Would be interesting to know. Are the pistons the same?

Originally Posted by MTNTK

I appreciate the comments on our products, but there are a few things your not getting quite right. Polaris built this motor to be very compact and lighter than previously designed engines. This being said there were compromises made that they thought were "acceptable".

One of those were to shorten the piston as much as possible. This kit is not a rod ratio change nor does it fix a rod ratio. it does not use pistons with a higher rod location to allow a longer rod to change thrust loading. Nor has any of our research found that the polaris engine had improper thrust loading on the piston.

If the thrust loading problems were true, then you and i would have seen scoring and piston damage on the thrust side of the pistion/cyl. I have never had a problem with the thrust/intake side of the piston. It always looks good, but the exhaust side looks really bad. But it is interesting to look at the design of the polaris engine, because it looks like an engine that they were trying to eliminate rod thrust loading because the stock piston has a rod pin location that is high on the piston almost like they were trying to get the longest rod possible without getting any deck height increase.

What our kit does do is raise the cylinder up and allow us to put a taller piston in the cylinder. What we found is that the polaris engine has excessive piston to cylinder clearance. this allows the piston to rock in the bore effectively using the top and bottom edges of the piston instead of the entire bearing surface of the skirt.

I have a very reliable source that stated polaris had a severe piston heating problem in the prototyping of the engine and so they elected to go with increased clearance to prevent piston seizure. This heat problem was fixed with the ecu reflash. The clearance combined with the piston design causes the piston to scrape the cylinder wall on the compression stroke, especially the exhaust side.

This is why the piston looked like it ran out of oil on the exhaust side but not the intake. This is why the engine would never totally fail, just slowly start to run bad, not going into reverse and then hard to start and then put, put, put and barely back to the trailer. This is also why there was an interesting phenomenon that when using a turbo on this engine it would last longer than stock. Everyone thought it was a fuel issue, but it was not. It was a piston size problem. The turbo added heat and the piston grew taking up the clearance.

The taller piston benefit can be easily described by the analogy if you have a smart car(which is a very short car!) on a single lane highway it would be much easier to turn around without going off the road than it would be to turn a tractor trailer semi (a very long vehicle)around on the same road. The piston does the same thing. It can't move away from the cylinder wall nearly as easy if it is longer and has tighter clearance than the stock piston. This makes horsepower in more than one way.

The first way is because the piston is not leaned over it holds cylinder pressure longer and makes the power stroke longer. The second way is the piston is 40 grams lighter so there are not as much parasitic losses internally. Third and less known is the piston slap is reduced and excessive piston slap can set off the detonation sensor and back off timing. fourth is the previously stated crankcase volume increase, which has been proven in numerous sae studies with tuned pipes is almost always beneficial for engines designed for peak power.

On our dyno it made 4.9 hp more and that was on a totally stock 2010 engine, airbox, and fuel. I hope this sheds some light on the product and I hope you can have some faith in it that we don't just come up with some gimic or "widget" and sell you on it. We test, we prove, we cannot sell you something we do not believe in. I welcome any more questions. Shawn, Mountain Tek Performance.
 
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