On all my previous sleds from '97 to '07 I would just unplug the keyswitch, tape up the connector and throw it on the shelf until it was time to sell the sled. Any reason why I can't do the same when I buy a '14. (I won't be getting electric start)
Deleting the keyswitch ?
- Thread starter Daggerboat
- Start date
my question to you is why do you want to do that??
worried about losing your key? if that's the case put key in just enough that you can turn it to the run position and pull it out. the sled will stay in run but key is in your hand.. put away until you want to sell.
are you running a teather? if not it sure is nice to have another safety switch to kill the sled if something happens.
I highly recommend a teather just from a safety point had a friend loose his foot 6 yrs ago sled stayed pinned on his foot track burned through his klim boot and killed his foot. we got up on top to kill sled before it did anything else.
worried about losing your key? if that's the case put key in just enough that you can turn it to the run position and pull it out. the sled will stay in run but key is in your hand.. put away until you want to sell.
are you running a teather? if not it sure is nice to have another safety switch to kill the sled if something happens.
I highly recommend a teather just from a safety point had a friend loose his foot 6 yrs ago sled stayed pinned on his foot track burned through his klim boot and killed his foot. we got up on top to kill sled before it did anything else.
Yes I have ALWAYS used a tether.On most of my sleds I used the keyswitch hole to mount the tether. On the '14 I will find a better location for the tether but I will probably be using a storage bag so I don't see any sense in having a keyswitch I will never use anyways....I haven't seen a '14 wiring diagram and was just wondering If polaris had made any changes for theft prevention.
As far as I know you can still just unplug it.
I broke off my kill switch one of the first days last season and didn't replace it till sometime in March. The only real minor issue was that if you started it with the hood off and the electronic dash unplugged there was no way to turn it off. The key is wired in after that connector so the kill switch is the only thing that is hard wired to turn it off. It depends on if your tether is wired in before or after that wiring disconnect.
a boost gauge for your turbo!!!
I hope theres not a just plug for the key, I couldn't find one so I just cut the wires and added a tether. Didn't plug the hole, its only about the size of an index finger, nothings gonna get in there. Not gonna hook it back up when I sell it, I have a feeling the buyer isn't gonna back out because it doesn't have a key. I took mine off because I dropped my key in the snow 2 years ago and it took me a couple minutes to find it, kind of a PITA, and no real need for it.
M
mt.aero
Well-known member
Would be a tiny boost gauge!
I think I have it figured out though. Gonna put a 12v USB charging port right there. Found one already with a waterproof cover for both closing it when not in use and for when you have something plugged in. That way I can charge my phone and a GPS at the same time if I need. Will be more of an emergency thing than something that will get used all the time. Just need to verify the size.
Can you post a link to the USB port that you found?
A
ak
Well-known member
Gorilla tape
You can use a knockout hole plug. Normally used to plug an empty hole in an electric panel or switch box. You can get them at any hardware store. I moved my switch inside my defroster bag and plugged the old hole with one. I Plastic Dipped it black first.
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I have the '14 600 RMK in the shop now and metering the keyswitch I see that in the RUN position there is continuity between the black and the green/white wires...(The green/white to white are used for electric start). Can anybody with a print tell me what the reason is for connecting the BLACK to the GREEN/WHITE in the run position ??
I went down to home depot, and got an electrical hole plug 7/8", then painted it black. works well and just .59
If you go to a true hardware store such as Ace or True Value they've got those little bins full of specialty parts in the nuts and bolts section. Usually there is a variety of black plastic hole plugs that just snap in.
Exactly. Rode two seasons with one, never popped out. Ace. 7/8, black. Depth is tight, but once in, perfect. Key is always on in the bag. Obviously, no estart.
