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Cutting out stock boards

freak485

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
My better boards well be here in a few days...i was wondering what everyone is using to cut the stock boards out...i have seen Air Saw is popular has anyone used a Sawzall? Dont have a air saw but have a good sawzall was wondering how that would work. Or what else is everyone using?
 
Air saw, sawzall, plasma cutter, die grinder with cutting wheel, jig saw, you name it. I usually start a cut with a cutting wheel and finish up with an air saw.
 
Sawsall, and or jigsaw with a fine toothed metal blade. When using the jigsaw it works pretty good to cut from the bottom side of the running board. Either way, while your doing it, you'll be like O MY GOD, WHAT AM I DOING!! Once the better boards are on and installed, you'll feel much better!
 
Be careful if you use a sawzall. They are a bit hard to control in close quarters. You can get an air saw at Harbor freight for around $12.00.
You will also want to cover your tunnel with duck tape or carboard or something so you don't have an accident and scarf up the tunnel.
It's not hard once you get started, but I do understand the concerns.
 
With a Sawzall.. You can Over Cut Very Easy..

Heck just a Hand saw.. Hack Saw.. Would do just fine Just might be there awhile..

My Vote Goes. Air Saw.. Cause i have one!

Plasma ... ###1 .. If i had one..


You can ALways Trim.. Can't Add very easy.. Cut once!!!
 
Here's a picture of my plasma cut from a few years ago. I would not recommend a sawz-all, this is really thin material that can be ruined pretty easy. Jig saw or air saw would be much better.

DSC_01.jpg
 
you can use a sawzall (i have in a pinch) but if you dont have access to a plasma i believe that a skinny wheel is the best, then clean up the cut with a flap disc. the small air saws are great for finishing up the corners.

d15fec6d.jpg


we'll have a tutorial posted soon using this method since most sledders dont have access to a plasma.
 
WOOOOOOOO Now wait just a minute.... aren't you the guy who's stated over and over and over and over and over (Ad nauseam) that the PRO doesn't need BETTER? "They are SoooOOOOooooooOOOOOO great stock...BLA BLA BLA". :face-icon-small-con:face-icon-small-con

Air body saw at Harbor Freight (retail $19...often on sale as low as $11 with three blades) is the number two best cut off tool...I can't believe you hard core sledders don't own plasma! I thought everybody had one!

Also get the small pneumatic rivet tool (gun) from HF while you are there..usually $39 and a valuable asset to own as well.

Like I tell people at the sled shows on installs. THIRTEEN THOUSAND SETS OF BETTER BOARDS have been installed. Over half by people in their garage with very basic tools. Obviously not that difficult.
 
Variable speed jig saw with fine blade. Cut from underneath. The front area is a bit harder to do so i use a hacksaw blade to finish up in the foot wells. Make sure NOT to leave any square corners. Aluminum likes to crack in square corners. Just round them out with a rat tail file and you will be fine.

Measure twice, cut once. You want enough aluminum area left to put the rivets in so they are not right at the edge. It is way better to cut too little out and go back for a "clean up", than to cut out too much ...dont ask how i know this :(

All in all quite a simple process, just a little nerve-wracking cutting on a brand new sled, but definitely the best $200 or so dollars you will spend. This is always my first "upgrade"

Oh....and the pneumatic rivet gun is ABSOLUTELY necessary. Otherwise you will be there a while....trust me on this :)

Cheers!
 
who are u referring to, when saying the stock boards are so great?

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk
 
Everything that Timbre said.

Lay the better boards on the tunnel.

Lay out where the holes are.

Mark the running boards.

Use a uni-bit on the 'corners' of the cutout ...

Connect the corners of the holes with a straight edge and sharpie marker.

Connect the holes you just drilled with the uni-bit by using a jigsaw with a fine blade from the bottom

I rivet all from the bottom ... the larger head of the rivet will distribute the load on the thinner remnants of the stock board that you are riveting to... If you want, you could use back-up-washers and rivet from the top for the same effect.
 
never thought about riveting from the bottom, all the pics you see are riveted from the top. That's pretty good idea.
 
Everything that Timbre said.

Lay the better boards on the tunnel.

Lay out where the holes are.

Mark the running boards.

Use a uni-bit on the 'corners' of the cutout ...

Connect the corners of the holes with a straight edge and sharpie marker.

Connect the holes you just drilled with the uni-bit by using a jigsaw with a fine blade from the bottom

I rivet all from the bottom ... the larger head of the rivet will distribute the load on the thinner remnants of the stock board that you are riveting to... If you want, you could use back-up-washers and rivet from the top for the same effect.

The install looks a lot better when you install with the rivets from the top with a backing washer on the bottom. Both ways will be just the same strength wise, but to see the swollen end of a rivet looking up at me would never do! Sorry MH you don't always have the right answer.
 
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