I have a Cutler 1000 engine out of my King Cat. Can sell engine with pipes/carbs/clutching parts or complete with all electronics. Price will be entirely dependant on what you want. Engine is in excellent shape with less than 500 miles on it since Cutler built it.
Chris
simple@alaska.net
(It is in McCall, ID)
Ok, here is the info:
I bought this "used", the guy that had it never installed or ran it since it was sent to Cutler for a complete rebuild/build. I have receipts here for almost $3000 in work/parts alone from Cutler. New bearings, seals, new V-Force reeds, carbs were bored, engine needed one new piston and a renicasil on that side, crank case ported, head machined, crank built, etc. I put it in my King, broke it in per Cutler with Amsoil Interceptor, have run 50/50 Avgas/Premium with 32:1 Interceptor since day one. (The last batch I mixed 110 race gas with Premium at 6:26 to get the same octane.) That mix is good for 5000+ feet. Cutler recommended I start at 540 mains and lean from there, I put 530N mains in (equivalent to 600) and never jetted down. It is about right at 0-10 degrees and 5000 feet with a gutted/SLP King Cat air box. Warmer and higher it was rich, but plenty of power so I never messed with it. Cutler recommended 64g weights, it was too light, I ended up fully maxing the bushed adjustables that I have at 70. It revved to 8400 if I let it down low on cold days, but up top it was good at 8050-8100 where Cutler recommended. I think it could use more weight, but it worked well and I left it. I put a max of 500 miles on the engine, probably less. 75 gallons through it based on what I have mixed up. (Yes, it got horrible mileage, lol.) It still has the plugs in it that I broke it in with, and they were used when I broke it in. I would like to get it sold and recoup some money from the new sled I bought, but if I have to I can wait until next year to get what I would like to get out of it. That being said, it can be sold in many ways, however the new owner would like it. Base package would be:
Pipes - (Great shape, no dents, EGT bungs welded in)
TM Flatslide Rack Carbs - (Jetted as above)
V-Force 3 Reeds
Engine assembly - (no magneto/stator/flywheel)
Power valves and cables - (Cables are missing some covering, but are smooth and work great)
Drive clutch clutching (no clutch) - (60-70 adjustable bushed Cutlers OR 65-75 fixed pin adjustable Cutlers, whichever fits your clutch, and Cutler gold/? white? spring)
Driven clutch clutching (no clutch) - (Green Cat snopro spring and 53-51 Cat helix)
With the above, a person with a 900 Mountain Cat/King could put it in with their electronics and rip with minimal tuning. I spent a lot of time getting everything figured out and right, and Dale probably hates me as I emailed him so many times.
$2000 plus shipping.
Add the following:
Power valve servo - $100
ECU - $100
Coil - $35
Power valve condenser and reg. - $50
Mag/stator/flywheel - $125
Recoil - $45
I think that is all anyone would be interested in. This is a stellar engine, in perfect shape, babied. I did a compression check, it is at 122/122 at 5000 feet with a low reading gauge. (Honestly, this thing is a beast to pull over, it was all I could do to yank it hard enough to get a compression check, lol.) (Damned Cat handles hurt my hand.) I have never even started it colder than 40-45 degrees, it always went from my warm shop to my enclosed trailer, 2 miles down the road to my bud's house and ride from there. Per Cutler, it was never revved or moved until it was 115+ degrees on the water temp gauge. I was religious about that and made my riding buds wait for me until it was warm. It ran 124-126 depending on snow. The only time it ever temped above that was after shutting it off and restarting, when the engine would heat soak the coolant. Then it would start at 145, cool right down after hitting the gas and moving the coolant through the system. Starting it "cold" is three quick partial pulls on full choke. Starting it warm is usually one quick half-pull. PM me for more info.
Chris
Chris
simple@alaska.net
(It is in McCall, ID)
Ok, here is the info:
I bought this "used", the guy that had it never installed or ran it since it was sent to Cutler for a complete rebuild/build. I have receipts here for almost $3000 in work/parts alone from Cutler. New bearings, seals, new V-Force reeds, carbs were bored, engine needed one new piston and a renicasil on that side, crank case ported, head machined, crank built, etc. I put it in my King, broke it in per Cutler with Amsoil Interceptor, have run 50/50 Avgas/Premium with 32:1 Interceptor since day one. (The last batch I mixed 110 race gas with Premium at 6:26 to get the same octane.) That mix is good for 5000+ feet. Cutler recommended I start at 540 mains and lean from there, I put 530N mains in (equivalent to 600) and never jetted down. It is about right at 0-10 degrees and 5000 feet with a gutted/SLP King Cat air box. Warmer and higher it was rich, but plenty of power so I never messed with it. Cutler recommended 64g weights, it was too light, I ended up fully maxing the bushed adjustables that I have at 70. It revved to 8400 if I let it down low on cold days, but up top it was good at 8050-8100 where Cutler recommended. I think it could use more weight, but it worked well and I left it. I put a max of 500 miles on the engine, probably less. 75 gallons through it based on what I have mixed up. (Yes, it got horrible mileage, lol.) It still has the plugs in it that I broke it in with, and they were used when I broke it in. I would like to get it sold and recoup some money from the new sled I bought, but if I have to I can wait until next year to get what I would like to get out of it. That being said, it can be sold in many ways, however the new owner would like it. Base package would be:
Pipes - (Great shape, no dents, EGT bungs welded in)
TM Flatslide Rack Carbs - (Jetted as above)
V-Force 3 Reeds
Engine assembly - (no magneto/stator/flywheel)
Power valves and cables - (Cables are missing some covering, but are smooth and work great)
Drive clutch clutching (no clutch) - (60-70 adjustable bushed Cutlers OR 65-75 fixed pin adjustable Cutlers, whichever fits your clutch, and Cutler gold/? white? spring)
Driven clutch clutching (no clutch) - (Green Cat snopro spring and 53-51 Cat helix)
With the above, a person with a 900 Mountain Cat/King could put it in with their electronics and rip with minimal tuning. I spent a lot of time getting everything figured out and right, and Dale probably hates me as I emailed him so many times.
$2000 plus shipping.
Add the following:
Power valve servo - $100
ECU - $100
Coil - $35
Power valve condenser and reg. - $50
Mag/stator/flywheel - $125
Recoil - $45
I think that is all anyone would be interested in. This is a stellar engine, in perfect shape, babied. I did a compression check, it is at 122/122 at 5000 feet with a low reading gauge. (Honestly, this thing is a beast to pull over, it was all I could do to yank it hard enough to get a compression check, lol.) (Damned Cat handles hurt my hand.) I have never even started it colder than 40-45 degrees, it always went from my warm shop to my enclosed trailer, 2 miles down the road to my bud's house and ride from there. Per Cutler, it was never revved or moved until it was 115+ degrees on the water temp gauge. I was religious about that and made my riding buds wait for me until it was warm. It ran 124-126 depending on snow. The only time it ever temped above that was after shutting it off and restarting, when the engine would heat soak the coolant. Then it would start at 145, cool right down after hitting the gas and moving the coolant through the system. Starting it "cold" is three quick partial pulls on full choke. Starting it warm is usually one quick half-pull. PM me for more info.
Chris
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