HAS ANYONE FOUND A CURE FOR THE DREADED CUT OUT? polaris definately needs to address this due to the fact that so many people are having trouble with it
cut out
- Thread starter foxshox
- Start date
yeah mine has only done it twice as well but im just hoping it wont do it while im pulling a hill because that would totally suck
weve had 2 pro's in the shop this year with stumbling issues. injectors fixed both of them.
H
HiWaYman92
Well-known member
If they are stumbling, it needs injectors. Mine was falling on its face at WOT, and it needed more clutch weight. First ride with new injectors and heavier weights, and it ran clean as a whistle all day.
thanks for the info i will definately look into it
How do you know it was the injectors if you also changed the weights?
My pro developed a bog in the mid range about 400 miles. Was low on gas, so thought maybe that was the cause. Next ride it was still there. Over multiple rides checked warmers, kill switch, ethenol plug, spark plugs & wires etc. Bog continued to get worse. Most noticable when running about 5600 rpm and romping on the throttle. Would even pull the rpm's way down occationally when pulling a hill at WOT. Cleaned power valves. Seamed a little better, but bog was still there. Sent it into Carl's and they found the power valve holes inside the head completely plugged. Was told they think its from the brake in period and the gasket between the powervalve and head having to small of a hole. Carl's had gaskets made to fix this. First ride out sled runs awesome again.
I have found that if you are even a touch light on clutch weight, you can not only get a full throttle bog but a midrange one as well...so make sure you try 1 set heavier weights to isolate that first, also my powervalves were gummmed up to the point of being sticky with just 300 miles on the sled(I run ves gold since new).....hope that might help some....
If you really have checked all the basics listed in the numerous 'electrical gremlin' threads, had your dealer check for codes, adjust or replace the TPS as needed, and had injectors tested properly and you still have an issue, AK is kinda hinting at a common owner caused driveability issue. I can only add my personal experience on my 2 Pros. One has been perfect, the other has been a garage queen. The latest one was a "bog" after 20-30 minutes of riding. Using the play back function caught an overrev condition so I started looking at the clutching. I found the belt was glazed and even had a touch of oil residue on it. I cleaned the clutches, the oil tank, and replaced the belt and the overrev went away and so did the bog. I even went two grams lighter and still don't get issues. I also found out you can hit 8500-8550 and not get issues so it must be a bit higher where the rev limiter hits. Moral of the story is that if you spill oil or have any drops in the plastice oil tank "bib", it may find its way to the belt and affect driveability and not be obvious most folks.
I posted this in another thread but I'm going to put it here as well. Last night I had my sled on a track stand let the sled warm up to 123 deg. as I would spin the track and it would get around 7500 rpms the computer would not allow it to go over 7800 rpms. I know it could feel that there was no pressure on the track and it would "bog" if I have it full throttle. It would shoot up to around 7500 rpms and fall flat on it's face.
My sled has over 1100 miles and has never bogged once while I have been riding it. This is something I feel alot of peeps on here would like to know and it should help some into finding out why there sled is bogging.
If your wondering what my sled runs in riding conditions it would be 8250 to 8100 on climbs and I have also got it to 8500 on the trail. again not one bogging issue on this sled and it has stock 62 gram weights in it with a tied secondary.
elevation anwhere from 5000 to 10,000
My sled has over 1100 miles and has never bogged once while I have been riding it. This is something I feel alot of peeps on here would like to know and it should help some into finding out why there sled is bogging.
If your wondering what my sled runs in riding conditions it would be 8250 to 8100 on climbs and I have also got it to 8500 on the trail. again not one bogging issue on this sled and it has stock 62 gram weights in it with a tied secondary.
elevation anwhere from 5000 to 10,000
H
HiWaYman92
Well-known member
It was hitting the rev limiter, that's why it was bogging on top. Heavier weights took care of that. The quick miss issue that I had occasionally was an injector issue. Both are fixed.
I had my tps adjusted and took the slack out of the upper throttle cable. The throttle override kill switch in the throttle block is very touching, specially when your close to an idle and wack the throttle fast. It cured my bog
I've found two new ways to create a momentary cut out and dying after restart. Both happen in deep snow, like the heavy stuff that just fell the last 4 days.
The momentary cut out seems to happen after rolling your sled after a detainment. This shoves the handlebars into the snow and seems to get snow caought up in the little throttle switch plunger thingy and make it sticky. Then, when yougo back to make another run at the hill, you hit a bump and the engine blanks for a split second forcing an "abort mission". Wacking the throttle and turning the handwarmers on high seems to fix it for the most part.
Another side effect of deep snow is that is gets stuck everywhere on the throttle block, under the flipper and makes for an idle high enough to engage the clutch and make a belt smelly. After cleaning this out, what you don't see is the snow melting on the flipper pin on the botom side of the block. This turns to ice in the right conditions and does not allow the flipper pin to travel in its slot to run the throttle switch. The symptom is the engine dies at the first movement of the flipper after a restart.
These are minor but may cause a headache on the hill so give things a quick once over when you can.
The momentary cut out seems to happen after rolling your sled after a detainment. This shoves the handlebars into the snow and seems to get snow caought up in the little throttle switch plunger thingy and make it sticky. Then, when yougo back to make another run at the hill, you hit a bump and the engine blanks for a split second forcing an "abort mission". Wacking the throttle and turning the handwarmers on high seems to fix it for the most part.
Another side effect of deep snow is that is gets stuck everywhere on the throttle block, under the flipper and makes for an idle high enough to engage the clutch and make a belt smelly. After cleaning this out, what you don't see is the snow melting on the flipper pin on the botom side of the block. This turns to ice in the right conditions and does not allow the flipper pin to travel in its slot to run the throttle switch. The symptom is the engine dies at the first movement of the flipper after a restart.
These are minor but may cause a headache on the hill so give things a quick once over when you can.
