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Cut my foot hoops today

My sled (picked it up last summer) came with them deleted, and I've finally got a few rides in on it. I'm really not sure why they put them there to begin with: I've yet to notice they weren't there. My old sled has a somewhat similar "toe box," so I'd think if they did anything it would feel a little weird, at least initially.
 
Surprised Polaris hasnt been sued over that design to be honest. Ankle Savers installed which work awesome. Was going to cut them but figured somebody would bitch when it was time to sell. This way I can unbolt the AS and install on the next sled
 
Am I the only one who actually pulls up on these with the top of my foot while carving left and right through the snow? Helps stay centered and not jump on one side as often.
I feel like my feet are never that far forward when they are both on the boards. Even when wrong foot forward in steep stuff I don’t actually use the loop for leverage.

I really should cut mine off, had a stuck foot back in 2012- had my sled rolled completely over I’m convinced something would have broke.

To each their own though.
 
Am I the only one who actually pulls up on these with the top of my foot while carving left and right through the snow? Helps stay centered and not jump on one side as often.
Yes, you're the only one...jk. The only time I ever find my feet up under the hoops is when I careen into a tree. I'm a big proponent of using wrong foot forward nearly any time the hill is about 10 degrees or more. It's an awkward stance at first, but as the position becomes more natural, it make sledding significantly easier. Sled speed can be reduced by half and your body position is straight upright and not tilting over. And to get the sled to act how you want, your feet will always be back away from the hoops. I could see using the hoops while carving around on flat land, but throttle can be used just as simply to get the sled to tip.

Thanks for the plug @HCRRider. Ankle Savers are heading out the door daily. If you want to go that route, they're available here: http://www.everettsports.net/anklesavers
 
  • Wow
Reactions: TRS
Well, after having a bad ankle injury over a month ago, i decided to ditch the useless toe hold hoops. I thought id put up a pic since i could not find any online. Pretty sure i won't miss them one bit. Thanks Tony at TRS for confirming that many have done this and no structural harm will come from this.

It’s even easier to just bend them up 1/2” at the outside.

My boots pop right out sideways but I can still use the toe holds for downhill carving.
 
Yes, you're the only one...jk. The only time I ever find my feet up under the hoops is when I careen into a tree. I'm a big proponent of using wrong foot forward nearly any time the hill is about 10 degrees or more. It's an awkward stance at first, but as the position becomes more natural, it make sledding significantly easier. Sled speed can be reduced by half and your body position is straight upright and not tilting over. And to get the sled to act how you want, your feet will always be back away from the hoops. I could see using the hoops while carving around on flat land, but throttle can be used just as simply to get the sled to tip.

Thanks for the plug @HCRRider. Ankle Savers are heading out the door daily. If you want to go that route, they're available here: http://www.everettsports.net/anklesavers
The new style of riding has gone full circle. Wrong foot forward is what we used to do and still do only when we have to. Now with sleds getting narrower and easier to roll, staying center is the key to faster transitions from side to side.
 
The new style of riding has gone full circle. Wrong foot forward is what we used to do and still do only when we have to. Now with sleds getting narrower and easier to roll, staying center is the key to faster transitions from side to side.
I suppose we're off topic, but we'll have to agree to disagree on this. Unless you're just messin' with me. The sleds CG is still the CG. WFF allows you to stop on a sidehill at any time, in any amount of steep. That's control. There's no way you can stop on a steep sidehill with a centered stance. That's out of control. It's the #1 technique taught by Burandt and Adams and what I stress to any friend newbie I bring out west.
 
I suppose we're off topic, but we'll have to agree to disagree on this. Unless you're just messin' with me. The sleds CG is still the CG. WFF allows you to stop on a sidehill at any time, in any amount of steep. That's control. There's no way you can stop on a steep sidehill with a centered stance. That's out of control. It's the #1 technique taught by Burandt and Adams and what I stress to any friend newbie I bring out west.

Not messing with you and agree with you to a point. I know sidehilling you are wrong foot forward but on the flat or climbing straight up and carving around trees it is much faster if you can stay centered and lean rather than jump side to side. This is were the loops can help you actually pull up on one side while pushing down on the other. My Khaos is much easier to do this than my 174 RMK.
 
I don't want the hoops gone, just raised up enough to let the boot come out when a person falls off.

I agree with a more neutral stance on 2019+ Pro's. WFF isn't necessary on anything below 30° unless its tight course (trees, boulders, etc.).
Just lift the down hill foot slightly off the board and u can sidehill for miles, including stop and go. With that said, everyone's still is a bit different and what works for one, may or may not work for someone else.

Sent it
 
I generally dont feel upward pull is needed on these sleds. Just a shift of weight and they will do just about anything you want them to. Went for a ride 2 days ago and didnt not even notice the hoops being gone.
 
I use my toe hold’s lots also. Especially when tight tree riding. I welded up a little jack that i use to crank up the tubing to allow more foot room to not get hung up, but still there to grab with your toe. I have size 14 boots, so i crank the tube up about 1”+. I used to use a bar or piece of wood to just pry them up but hard to control and would over crank and crack the tubing. Heat is tricky also that metal is really thin. Been having success doing it this way since the IQ tube days.
 
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