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Custom 36-37in a arm kit

fgauvin7

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Hi, just to show you the set of arm that I have build for my 2012 M800.

I used a set of take of HCR arm for cheap and buid a jig to change the gemetry. After a couple of test I found the right lenght for both arm.
I have now a 36,5in c-c, spindel is laid down 6 deg more and both skis are moved forward 2.25in. I still have the same ride height and I am using the stock 17,75in float with AC 2014-15 bushing at the end.

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the sled should be nice, I have bought it last year, ran it all the season with few little broken parts... this summer I rebuilt it from the ground up, all worn bushing and all beraing are new, put a set of iceage bomber, 2.6 track was already on it, Yamaha viper chain tensionner, all rear supension powdercoated, custom front end C&A pro skis and polished tunnel. This is praticaly a new machine!

I still need to relocate the rear supension and put a complete set of frogskinz before winter.

there is a couple pics of the rebuild for you! :whistle:




 
Nice. Good post. I'm getting ready to do the same thing and just for ****s and giggles I thought I would see if anybody else has done it... I been trying to dream up a jig and yours looks more practical than my idea. So how are the stock shocks? The travel must be pretty limited? Did you put the spacers in them? Did it raise the front stance of the sled? Would you be willing to share the measurements on your jig??
 
Thanks, I build the jig to be able to completly weld the arm on it and prevent any twisting.

For the shock, I still use the 17,75in stock shocks, but I have installed a set of sphérical bushing from the 2014-16 Procllimb (ajustement needed to the bushing).

I have not put any spacer, and I have kept the stock ride height.

My setup allow me to keep the same shock because I have moved the skis 2,25in forward... (like skinz did on their set) So I would have used a shock longer than the 36in setup from AC... they use 16in shock on the 2016 I think.

For the travel, it is as good as the other seld with the same width.

I would give you a couple of measure but I'm out for school until christmas...

Be sure to show us your project!
 
Ohh and a little trick for you...To find good gemetry I have build a mockup uper arm that is ajustable with a pile of washer and a skidoo rev upper ball joint that fit directly in the spindel.

When it is set right, you can build the jig with it and then the arm.... this way you will not have to cut it 5-6 time before it is perfect.

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I really think for mountain riding the 36" front end really makes a big difference in boondocking. Probably one of the first things I'd buy if I had a 12-15 PC
 
kfrericks, the major differences between the 13 vs 14/15, and 16 are as follows.

Using the 13 as the comparison/standard since you have one and know what the sled is, the 14s and 15s featured the same 38" stance, but reduced weight throughout the sled(shorter seat, lighter fuel tank, etc..), lighter spindles, lighter shafts, different gearing, and rear suspension mounting location.

The 16 changed the front end to a 36" stance, new spindle, new layed back spindle angle, different upper a arms, better skis, new rail front profile and center shock mounting location/longer shock, fixed steering post, team clutches. If you go to the limited model you also have 3" track, 7 tooth drivers, and evol shocks.

Those are the basic differences between the sleds. Having own 12, 13, 14, and 15s, personally I feel you can definately tell the difference in weight going from a stock 13 to a stock 14 or 15. And then jumping to the new 16 front end changes it even more for the better.
 
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