Current anodizing advice?

[FCR112]

From a rookie with it, looking for good advice on anodizing snowmobile parts. Thinking of getting some rails, stock footboards, maybe a large wraparound bumper, and other smaller pieces done... likely black.

Looking for suggestions... on how to prep, who does an excellent job, pricing to be expected, what to watch out for, etc... are there certain processes or types to avoid? I have heard of a few horror stories where items got warped or structurally compromised, that would really suck considering the cost of sled parts! Also read that if done right anodizing increases the strength of the part... So how do I make sure it gets done right?

Been through the existing threads, no chop busting required

Thanks

 

[Quinlan]

Have them Type 3 Hardcoated or don't do it at all. The other types are mostly decorative and will not hold up to the abuse most sled parts will see.

When it comes to prep, the better the preparation, the better your final product will be. Any imperfections in the parts that you can see now will likewise be seen when coated. I had my rails anodized on my Assault and spent a few hours wet sanding and polishing each rail. It was a painstaking process, but the rails came back phenomenal. Also, you do not want any steel remnants on your parts being anodized. The steel will oxidize and likely ruin any finish you are trying to achieve (at least in the effected area). Any steel bolts, rivets, etc. will need to be removed and those areas given a little more attention.

I'd be willing to bet that the 'horror stories' you read about were in regards to powder coating, not anodizing. Powder coating requires baking, which if not done properly, may jeopardize the integrity of the part (may remove tempering and weaken the part). Anodizing, on the other hand, is a dying process done by electrolysis.

Many people will tell you powder coating is fine, and for many it is, but I chose to eliminate any risk all together by going the anodized route.

I had mine done by Anodizing and Metal Coatings out of SLC, Utah.

 

[2XM3]

remember too if you want the colored chrome look you have to polish the stuff to a mirror finish before you have it done, and that any cast parts will anodize but may come out blotchy if its a poor casting, also 2024 alloy will not anodize and looks horrible.. I second the black hardcoat, but make sure to enlarge all your holes a couple thousand as it is a nice thick coating

 

[FCR112]

remember too if you want the colored chrome look you have to polish the stuff to a mirror finish before you have it done, and that any cast parts will anodize but may come out blotchy if its a poor casting, also 2024 alloy will not anodize and looks horrible.. I second the black hardcoat, but make sure to enlarge all your holes a couple thousand as it is a nice thick coating

Thanks for the heads up guys. Good stuff! I'm not too concerned with it having a mirror finish, just strength and preventing snow sticking better.

Kind of playing the fool here, but for clarification:
Do you still have to drill the existing holes out to get things to fit back together? Do you need to somehow protect threaded pieces and the holes for suspension cross pieces to prevent bolts from no longer threading back in? Spindle holes?

In regards to the castings... What are guys doing with the casted rear piece of the footboards?

Are any of the Polaris parts ie... the rails, footboards, seat brace, spindles, etc.. made of 2024 alloy?

 

[2XM3]

as far as I know there is no 2024 used

ask the shop how they would like you to handle the holes and threads, I usually tap all the threads after the stuff gets back with a very good nitride coated tap as the hard coat is VERY hard.


Id probably do all of it, cast stuff as well, it will still take the coating just not look as pretty

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

anodizing cast peices like spindles rarely turns out like you want it, nice extruded parts like rails, etc turn out great, if polished first, they are really nice. the cast junk usually turns out a weird dark grey color

po rails are 70xx something allow, they look great when done in black.

 

[Quinlan]

I never worried about the holes when I did mine; left them as is and reassembled the skid just fine. The hole tolerances aren't tight enough to worry about the .002" surface build up Hardcoating may provide.

 

[danduvall]

View attachment 219832
I used a SS wire brush to prep my rails for anodize
Top hole before, bottom after

View attachment 219834
Any imperfections or degradation in the material will be visible through the anodize. Its not a coating its a dye!


The shop I use charges .04¢ per sq inch. I had 4- 144 rails and all misc skid parts (20pcs) done and it cost $132

I went with type 2 soft coat On my rails and its pretty darn hard to scratch it off

They can mask areas off and plug holes to protect thread tolerances.

Type 3 hard coat, most shops can only dye it to black. Or whatever color the aluminum naturally turns when anodized, usually a gun metal or grayish green color

Type 2 is dyeable to a multitude of colors



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[2XM3]

Heres how it looks when polished, bunch of boat stuff I made from 6061 and sent to Jenco Plating in LA for polish and color type2

 

[villain]

2xm3. Those for a flatty?

 

[2XM3]

Motor in my ski boat, cal performance 19 , 588 inch 14-71 high helix



the black pulley is polished hardcoat btw