Cracked Heat Exchanger

[SnowAddiction2]

Anybody else have they're Apex heat exchanger that is mounted to the tunnel rail crack and start to leak. We've been riding big trail bumps lately, and i think the stress on the tunnel put a stress crack in the exchanger. There is a small stress fracture in the exchanger right behind where the tunnel drop bracket is located.

Does anybody know if it is easy to weld the fracture, or should i just buy a new exchanger for $275? Either way, I will have to remove the exchanger.

 

[Thistledoo]

Seen it a few times....hauling lots of fuel and big bumps it doesnt take long. I'd find a take off tunnel....got to be dozens of them out there....grab it and throw it on complete.

 

[WOOD2]

I know of an entire chassis that is for sale. Has everything but the motor. Great parts sled.

 

[SnowAddiction2]

I know of an entire chassis that is for sale. Has everything but the motor. Great parts sled.

How much for the parts sled, and where is it located? I might be interested.

 

[03rmking]

Mine did that. The extension gets loose and flexes the cooler until it cracks. I just chopped my coolers off right where the extension starts, had them welded and ran a longer flexible hose back. No more problems and the sled doesnt overheat. Just a short term fix, have a VA going on soon as the snow melts.

 

[WOOD2]

How much for the parts sled, and where is it located? I might be interested.

PM'd you!

 

[TurboT]

Maybe try this!

If you guys are running a front mount turbo setup and the exhaust ports out the front what I did was keep the stock seat and eliminated the exhaust system. A 3 gallon shhhhhh...skidoo tank fits really nice in under the seat. That'll keep the weight off the rear end and opens up the tunnel for other space. Had to fabricate a panel on the back of the seat which kinda sucked, but the system has worked out awesome. When i bought the 3 gallon jug, it came with a nice self ratcheting system and close end hooks the likes of the stock 08 Apex Mountain setup. The whole kit cost around 80 bucks but is lightweight and very easy to use.

 

[SnowAddiction2]

I took a closer look at the cause of the stress crack in the heat exchanger, and it definitely was caused by the tapered tunnel section moving. The holes for the rivits that attach the extension to the main tunnel are slotted about 1/8", caused by all the stress of 3 years of riding. This translates to about 1/2" movement at the aft end of heat exchanger when applying pressure on the bumper up or down.

Simple fix for the tunnel. I will rivet a doubler plate over the joint area with twice as many rivets. Should get another 3 years out of it before another fix is required. Maybe buy one of those fancy tunnels then.

Will either have to get another heat exchanger or try to weld the crack.

As described from other people on this thread, the weight of the gas tank added to the problem. I also use a SnowJack when stuck (I use it alot), and it lifts all the weight of the aft end + snow on the track from the back bumper.

 

[Thistledoo]

Any holes that are at all bigger than 3/16's I would drill to 1/4 and use a all alum hammer rivot....I have done a couple and they hold really good.

 

[SnowAddiction2]

Any holes that are at all bigger than 3/16's I would drill to 1/4 and use a all alum hammer rivot....I have done a couple and they hold really good.

Thanks for the advise! I will do that. Larger solid hammer rivets will be much stronger. I will add a doubler plate and add another 2 rows of rivets also. Should help spread the load better.

 

[Turblue]

My tunnel extension is getting loose.....anybody try something else besides hammer rivets? What do you need to install the hammer rivets...air hammer, and a anvil? Is it worth it or just install new pop rivets every year?

 

[Motleyone]

My tunnel extension is getting loose.....anybody try something else besides hammer rivets? What do you need to install the hammer rivets...air hammer, and a anvil? Is it worth it or just install new pop rivets every year?

Try actual Steel Rivets, use the same as pop rivets but much stronger.

 

[SnowAddiction2]

In the process of replacing my cracked heat exchanger (2006 apex) and fixing the flexing tunnel extension. I found all the rivet holes holding the extension were elongated .25". I installed 5/16 shoulder bolts in a few places and making the bolt holes a net fit. The row of rivets behind the muffler will be removed and beefed up with a doubler plate with strategically places rivets.

Damage was caused by carrying a 2 1/2 gallon gas can on the extension and taking big bumps at 50 mph. Oh well, I've had very few repairs on this sled, and i've beat the crap out of it.

Just a note, I found that the rivets yamaha is using is an aluminum coated steel. Get a magnet and you will see for your self. Aluminum is not suppose to be magenetic, but the rivets and its shavings are magnetic.

 

[Turblue]

what kind of rivets are you going to use?

 

[SnowAddiction2]

I am going to be using a combination of the Yamaha aluminized steel pop rivets and shoulder bolts. I am installing shoulder bolts in areas of high shear, which are the 2 rivets (each side) located on the top of the tunnel extension closest to the side of the muffler. I will be adding a doubler plate and riviting the row of inserts on top of the extension behind the muffler.

The fix should give me another 4 years of riding before i have to do it all over again.