Corking bars, questions

[mickyd32]

So after rising last season with my bars spray foamed and seeing marginal improvement if any at all, I decided to try the cork route

Early season riding has led me to believe that exhaust side warmer is burnt out anyways, which I later verified in the shop. So yesterday I purchased 2 new elements in preparation for corking my bars.

The question now is what is a good source for cork? I remember seeing somewhere that you could get it from Doo? Is that right?

What are other options? Craft stores?
If so what thickness am I looking for?

 

[GoBigParts]

Make sure to select super saver shipping.

https://www.gobigparts.com/SPI-HANDLEBAR-HEATER-INSULATORS.html

We have the heater elements as well that seem to perform better than stock.

https://www.gobigparts.com/Symtech-Snowmobile-Handwarmers-Rocker-Switch.html

 

[Sickbuild]

Here you go.. lots of ways. Lots of opinions. This way worked for a few we've done with ease.

 

[XP Summit]

I tried going a bunch of different routes with cork thickness, different spay adhesives etc. With Polaris grips, and doo cork the Polaris grips just got too narrow for my liking. I end up going doo grip cut down and doo cork. For ease I just used the part number off an 08 Summit X, as I was familiar with the style of grip and adhesive backed cork.

Cheers
Shawn

 

[MTN Powderhound]

The doo cork and the polaris warmer worked good for me. First ride with them was a big difference. Works great!

 

[Quicksand]

Doo cork cost me about $10 and they get hot enough that you cant run them on high with bare hands

 

[Spaarky]

Don't be a friggen idiot like me and use the cork in conjunction with the hotter warmers. You will burn up your grips... literally.

 

[volcano buster]

Prior to realizing that Doo made this type product, I used MountainHorse's suggestions and bought a roll of adhesive cork from McMasterCarr (3/4" x 1/32" I believe). Now I have 96' of spare cork, literally. Since I have bigger hands I really like the slightly larger diameter offered by the cork and the shrink tubing I used over the heating element. I used the shrink tube to keep the heating element true while I slid the grips on. Several options out there.

Since these are on Pro-Taper bars with the older style 45° bar hooks the RSI heaters worked well, but I wanted to plug the bolt hole so the element wouldn't get fatigued and break prematurely. I used a piece of 1/2" diameter wooden down and cut and shaped to fit the bar contour. I seldom run them on high, except for cold days after I have been off the sled for a bit, then they either go back to low or off.

 

[GoBigParts]

Make sure to select super saver shipping.

https://www.gobigparts.com/SPI-HANDLEBAR-HEATER-INSULATORS.html

We have the heater elements as well that seem to perform better than stock.

https://www.gobigparts.com/Symtech-Snowmobile-Handwarmers-Rocker-Switch.html

 

[damx]

We used 3/4" electrical shrink wrap on the bars. Easer then cork, then stock or rsi heaters and stock grips. Works soo good.

 

[pulltype_polaris]

I couldn't imagine rsi heaters corked. Had them on my last sled and could cook my hands at will. Needed really thick mitts not to burn you on hi.

 

[damx]

I have the shrink tube and rsi on mine. On hi they are to hot if it's not cold. But if it gets -20 then you have the option to use hi,and not have to cold of hands.

 

[Kcjepperson]

I bought cork from hobby lobby and still have enough to do 50 handlebars, if you need some let me know. You pay the shipping and you can have the cork for free.

When I installed them I found the best way,was boil the grips until they before very plyable and then they stretch over the cork and heating element much better.