Coolant in TPS connector?

[Oregonsledder]

Last weekend I rode my 12 PRO 800 on Friday. We had 5 feet of new snow and I had a blast. We were camping for the night and the sled sat outside under it's poly cover. The next morning it started normally and then after warm up when I was ready to get after it, I would get to about 3500 RPM and the check engine light would come on and it would go into limp mode (at least that is the way it seemed). After running around the snow park a while it quit giving me the error and it ran great the rest of the day, with no issue.

After getting back home, I started looking around and found the TPS dripping with coolant.

I pulled every thing off needed so I could get a good look. I pulled the TPS cover and plug and dried everything out and filled the connector with dielectric grease (to keep moisture out in the future).

There is a coolant line directly above the TPS than runs from the throttle body to the PTO side head. I checked that hose very closely and ran the sled and there was no moisture any where around that hose or it's connectors.

My theory is this..... If you look where the coolant bottle over flow hose is, it is in line with the back of the air box. If the sled was puking a little coolant, and was on it's left side.. (mine was a few times over the weekend) the overflow would run down the air box channel and onto the TPS connector.

I can't find any other way coolant got there, but I thought I would see if any one else has seen any thing like this? I'm sure the coolant in the TPS connector was why the sled didn't want to run on Saturday.
Input welcomed!

 

[GREICO1]

You are probably correct about the coolant, but a word of caution to everyone-Be careful with the dielectric grease. Too much in a weather pak connector can force the pins out of place. Be sure to check that they are completely plugged in when re-connecting anywhere you use it.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I will also add..if you get coolant anywhere near electrical connections..clean it really really good..coolant picks up microscopic metal material from the engine and is highly conductive..I would use a good electromotive cleaner and a smaall paintbrush and scrub both parts of the connectors..then rather then use dialectric grease(I use stabilant on all connections)..use stabilant 22 to coat the connector pins..it is 10x's better then dialectric grease for electrical connections...heres some links for it...
http://www.stabilant.com/techt02h.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Stabilant-5ml-Kit-Makes-30ml/dp/B001E50GQS

you can buy it at most napas..but is cheaper online....

 

[Oregonsledder]

I will also add..if you get coolant anywhere near electrical connections..clean it really really good..coolant picks up microscopic metal material from the engine and is highly conductive..I would use a good electromotive cleaner and a smaall paintbrush and scrub both parts of the connectors..then rather then use dialectric grease(I use stabilant on all connections)..use stabilant 22 to coat the connector pins..it is 10x's better then dialectric grease for electrical connections...heres some links for it...
http://www.stabilant.com/techt02h.htm

http://www.amazon.com/Stabilant-5ml-Kit-Makes-30ml/dp/B001E50GQS

you can buy it at most napas..but is cheaper online....

I agree with the cleaning the connector very good, but I have used dielectric grease for many years with good results. I have an electrical engineering background, and fully understand it’s appropriate usage and limitations. The main issue here is to keep moisture from being able to find a way in, while maintaining the proper conductive properties. I appreciate the comments. I would still like to know for sure where the coolant came from ??

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

oregon, what I found with the stabilant..it works on the connections in such a way to make them act like soldered connections..as for the coolant..I think you are right..I think it puked some out the vent when it was on its side..keep an eye on it for sure..is it low at all?

 

[xc6rider]

I noticed that mine had spewed a little coolant out while riding. I think the cap is crap. Was a very small amount, a light to medium mist coolant is what it looked like. Never got hot, so it's either seeping out around cap threads or the cap is leaking.

 

[GREICO1]

If the coolant indeed came from the overflow tube, you should be able to see some residue or droplets in the hose. If it is clean and dry, I would look around a bit.

 

[gman086]

Hmm, this could explain my recent TPS gremlins. I've also found that if you fill the coolant bottle up to the line on the tank it will overflow. I go 1/2-1" down from the coolant line and no overflow since.

Have FUN!

G MAN

 

[m8sandman]

Hmm, this could explain my recent TPS gremlins. I've also found that if you fill the coolant bottle up to the line on the tank it will overflow. I go 1/2-1" down from the coolant line and no overflow since.

Have FUN!

G MAN

x2 on this. mine will puke if filled to the full line, have learned that if i leave it that inch down from the line it will stay there and take care of the puking problem. i guess the full line is actually an overfull line

 

[Oregonsledder]

oregon, what I found with the stabilant..it works on the connections in such a way to make them act like soldered connections..as for the coolant..I think you are right..I think it puked some out the vent when it was on its side..keep an eye on it for sure..is it low at all?

The coolant level was only down about an inch, in 300 miles.

 

[Oregonsledder]

A few more comments on this. I spent at least an hour yesterday with the secondary clutch, the belt cover and oil tank out of the way so I had a very clear view of the TPS. Coolant usually leaves some residue in areas where it has been collecting. The most obvious place for the coolant to have leaked was the hose directly above the TPS connector, but with a white tissue I could not get any color from either end of the hose. Guys, this leak was not small, the TPS was dripping wet and there was a small amount pooled below it on the bulk head. I ran the sled until I got the temp to 125 degrees while varying the rpm (and coolant system pressure)... no visible leak. I am going to investigate the TPS mechanical system that has a rod running through the throttle body to see if there is any way the coolant could find it’s way to the TPS via the rod. I should have taken a picture of the TPS before I cleaned it up, I think most reading this would have been surprised to see how wet it was.

 

[Oregonsledder]

oregon, what I found with the stabilant..it works on the connections in such a way to make them act like soldered connections..as for the coolant..I think you are right..I think it puked some out the vent when it was on its side..keep an eye on it for sure..is it low at all?

AK, a few more words on using dielectric grease in a snowmobile connector. First off, I have never used the product you mentioned and if you say it’s good, then I will accept that. However, the issue isn’t needing better connectivity. A snowmobile connector on a TPS is a low voltage high current (relatively speaking) connection. The problem with a snowmobile connectors is that moisture gets in the connector and then creates a bridge (conductor) between the pins. The connector has sheaths around the pins to help shield them but they are not moisture proof. Dielectric grease is a dielectric (an insulator) and it oozes into the gaps between the sheathing and the pins and keeps moisture out and connectivity bridging at a minimum. It has virtually no impact on connectivity in these applications.
I have always used the grease in snowmobile and marine connectors and I have never had a bridging connector issue.

 

[xc6rider]

Sounds like you had more of a coolant leak issue than what I've seen with mine. My current level is around that 1" low area, but my overflow hose definitely has not had any coolant go through it.

I agree with the dielectric grease, used it for years and applying it on all connectors was the first thing I did with my sled. Can't believe they don't apply it from the factory.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

AK, a few more words on using dielectric grease in a snowmobile connector. First off, I have never used the product you mentioned and if you say it’s good, then I will accept that. However, the issue isn’t needing better connectivity. A snowmobile connector on a TPS is a low voltage high current (relatively speaking) connection. The problem with a snowmobile connectors is that moisture gets in the connector and then creates a bridge (conductor) between the pins. The connector has sheaths around the pins to help shield them but they are not moisture proof. Dielectric grease is a dielectric (an insulator) and it oozes into the gaps between the sheathing and the pins and keeps moisture out and connectivity bridging at a minimum. It has virtually no impact on connectivity in these applications.
I have always used the grease in snowmobile and marine connectors and I have never had a bridging connector issue.

oregon..I used to use dialetric..but stabilant works better..it will not only improve conductivity, but also stop voltage leakage..take a few minutes and read the tech page on it...I built the kids matching gaming computers 7 yrs ago..totally identical except for using stabilant on 1 and not the other..the one with stabilant one a speed contest with one of the big manufacters...was pretty cool..the other one ran at just above stock speeds regardless what I tried till I took it back apart and used stabilant on it,,,,it then clocked same as the other...same with my mud buugy..used to kill tps sensors and other sensors till i started using stabilant on it as well...no more issues..give it a try..might be surprised...

 

[racerjb]

I just saw this thread. I am having the exact issue as Oregonsledder. I did change my head to the PA one but retorqued everything including the DET sensor & temp sensor to correct specs. I never had an issue all last year when complete stock until now. My entire coolant bottle drained during a one day ride. With coolant all around the PTO side of the motor above throttles. Process of elimination means it had to be what I changed. So I am thinking it is or the line that runs from the TB to the head, and possible the fitting going into the head.

Maybe double check the fitting going to the head and re pipe tape it.

 

[Oregonsledder]

I just saw this thread. I am having the exact issue as Oregonsledder. I did change my head to the PA one but retorqued everything including the DET sensor & temp sensor to correct specs. I never had an issue all last year when complete stock until now. My entire coolant bottle drained during a one day ride. With coolant all around the PTO side of the motor above throttles. Process of elimination means it had to be what I changed. So I am thinking it is or the line that runs from the TB to the head, and possible the fitting going into the head.

Maybe double check the fitting going to the head and re pipe tape it.

When I first saw the coolant on the TPS, I was sure it had to be the hose, or fittings on the hose running from the TB to the PTO head as well. I cannot find ANY sign of past or present fluid associated with that hose or it's fittings?

I will keep an eye on mine and try to find the sourse if it happens again. The grease will keep it out of the connector, and should eliminate a engine check light and limp mode condition.

 

[Oregonsledder]

Update: Rode hard yesterday, and the TPS is wet with coolant again!
No running issues this time because the connector was full of grease. This is very odd to say the least! The only place I see any coolant is on the TPS and under it on the bulkhead where it dripped. My coolant level was and still is on the cold level mark???

 

[xc6rider]

Maybe pressurize the system and see if its leaking anywhere in the area. May be able to figure it out.

Id think it would have to be coming from that throttle body line tho, like you were thinking.


Check it cold, and fully warmed up too.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Maybe pressurize the system and see if its leaking anywhere in the area. May be able to figure it out.

Id think it would have to be coming from that throttle body line tho, like you were thinking.


Check it cold, and fully warmed up too.

I too would pressure test it..but I think it has a pinched head o-ring and is spraying coolant out right onto the sensor...

 

[xc6rider]

I too would pressure test it..but I think it has a pinched head o-ring and is spraying coolant out right onto the sensor...

Could be! Wonder if he has any residue on the cylinder. One thing about coolant, it can leave a nice oily look behind.