Looking for complete running board conversions, not just inserts, for a Pro. So far I've found CR Racing, Power Addiction, Vanamburg , Skinz and Diamond S. Does any one know of any other? Pictures would be helpful too. Pros and Cons of any of these setups. A friend tried to do a insert on his 12 and got carried away with the sawzall and know the boards have to be replaced. I don't even think there is enough material left to put 13 style boards on.
Complete running board conversions
- Thread starter sledhooligan
- Start date
The 13 setup uses a small lip that you dont cut off. But most off the other kits I've seen seem to rivet to the side of the tunnel.
http://www.poweraddictionracing.com/images/Resize of IQ1100 008.jpg
http://crracingcanada.com/main/medi...90634e56e06dd37c4cfdb/p/r/proboards_small.jpg
http://www.diamond-smfg.com/pics/rmkboards2_op_737x552.jpg
http://www.poweraddictionracing.com/images/Resize of IQ1100 008.jpg
http://crracingcanada.com/main/medi...90634e56e06dd37c4cfdb/p/r/proboards_small.jpg
http://www.diamond-smfg.com/pics/rmkboards2_op_737x552.jpg
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Y
yz400ex
Well-known member
Got me there. Didn't think of those. I thought they used some of the bottom lip also, but I was thinking more along the lines off skinz and b&m, etc.. something like what is pictured would probably work. Heard really good stuff about the PAR setup..
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A lot of guys that are looking for a complete solution like the Skinz.
http://www.gobigparts.com/Air-Frame-Running-Boards-by-Skinz.html
Pretty sure you need a lip left to mount them.
http://www.gobigparts.com/Air-Frame-Running-Boards-by-Skinz.html
Pretty sure you need a lip left to mount them.
If your freind got carried away and cut off too much ... I would do the Skinz hands down. The outer tube is the most heavy duty I've seen in the boards and they flat out shed snow.
Having the lip roll around the bottom is a "big deal" as it provides structural integrity to the tunnel.
Without a doubt.... bond the boards to the tunnel along the full lenght... using careful prep, sanding off the p-coat in the glue area and taking your time to set it up carefully and do a dry run for fit before you actually use the adhesive.
Check out Christophers thread on bonding the SPG airframes to the Nitro...
You have to be methodical and fast... the adhesive hardens in about 5 minutes.
Adhesive source at the top of the Polaris section... get minimum of 2 tubes.
Having the lip roll around the bottom is a "big deal" as it provides structural integrity to the tunnel.
Without a doubt.... bond the boards to the tunnel along the full lenght... using careful prep, sanding off the p-coat in the glue area and taking your time to set it up carefully and do a dry run for fit before you actually use the adhesive.
Check out Christophers thread on bonding the SPG airframes to the Nitro...
You have to be methodical and fast... the adhesive hardens in about 5 minutes.
Adhesive source at the top of the Polaris section... get minimum of 2 tubes.
I really like the new cleats for the SPG boards as well.
In colors to boot! (Black, Red, Yellow, Orange, White and Blue)
In colors to boot! (Black, Red, Yellow, Orange, White and Blue)
Post a photo of just how far back he cut his stock boards.
.
.
I'll try to get som pic posted. Depending on what boards he plans on running. I might end up taking a piece of angle and riveting/glueing it in to make an artificial lip.
Here is our tubular aluminum boards, tig welded 6000 series aluminum. They come powder coated the color of your choice.
Bryan
B&M Fabrications
612-202-9245
If there is still a "lip" on there.. bonding is your best bet.
If you use PowerAddiction racing or Vanamburg boards... you would not have to worry about it.
If you use PowerAddiction racing or Vanamburg boards... you would not have to worry about it.
I glued my airframes last year without removing any paint. Reasonably easy to do but you need to pay attention how well u clamp things together when drilling.
On my back up sled this year, I put Burandt boards on. Lots of detail cutting when removing the old boards. U need to leave little tabs of tunnel for the rivets. They go on pretty nice and are more foot friendly than airframes but airframes will hold less snow.
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On my back up sled this year, I put Burandt boards on. Lots of detail cutting when removing the old boards. U need to leave little tabs of tunnel for the rivets. They go on pretty nice and are more foot friendly than airframes but airframes will hold less snow.
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Here's my 09 with the boards cut off - I didn't take any close-up pics of the lip that's left.
Here's my Air Frames installed - Lord's adhesive and 1/2" headed 3/16" rivets.
Is there about the same amount of a lip as whats at the rear of tunnel, if so, he's probably OK.
Here's my Air Frames installed - Lord's adhesive and 1/2" headed 3/16" rivets.
Is there about the same amount of a lip as whats at the rear of tunnel, if so, he's probably OK.
The structural adhesive will stick to most abraded powder coat...
AND... the adhesive is only as strong as what it is stuck to.
If the Prep for the pow coat was not immaculate in the first place... weather that is factory as in the burandt boards... or aftermarket... the "glue" is only stuck as well as the base.... Lord Industries said to me when I called and talked to them for a bit that their adhesive sticks well to powcoats... but said that the "ideal" is bare/bare aluminum... cleaned and abraded/blasted/etched... and warm during application.
AND... the adhesive is only as strong as what it is stuck to.
If the Prep for the pow coat was not immaculate in the first place... weather that is factory as in the burandt boards... or aftermarket... the "glue" is only stuck as well as the base.... Lord Industries said to me when I called and talked to them for a bit that their adhesive sticks well to powcoats... but said that the "ideal" is bare/bare aluminum... cleaned and abraded/blasted/etched... and warm during application.
FWIW, it took 2 - 50ml tubes of Lord's 406/19 (1 for each side) to install my boards.
I prepped mine by spilling a beer on them and then wiping a little rubbing alcohol on them.
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I have 850 miles on my air frames. I did not use any adhesive on them only rivets supplied with boards. Rievt every 2-2.5" on tunnel. They are still rock solid as the day I installed them.
B&M fabrication hands down I have a set on my proclimb and they are unbelievable
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