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Cold Starts-PITA

A

Arctic Thunder

Well-known member
So whats the trick here?

5 degrees outside, trying to get the M1000 Twisted RG turbo started. I know I need to build some fuel pressure, but holy crap what a pull. To get enough RPM's to get the electrical pump to charge the fuel rail is a killer. (I really worry about pulling the rope out of the recoil or snapping the rope more than anything)

So what are others doing to get these things going on cold mornings?

My ideas:
1. splice in a 12v connector so I can hook up a 12v battery and quickly charge the fuel rail.
2. a shot of starting fluid in the turbo intake. I am talking about a super quick shot not the kind of shot you would put in a skidder.
3. heated enclosed trailer? that would be nice.

What other ideas?

Thunder
 
Here in ne ND 5* is a normal day when i need to start my turbo in 20-30 below weather i take belt off and pull spark plug dump in a little gas and start with no belt to get it warmed up. I have wondered myself about a little shot of either as pulling plugs on these is a pain!
 
I have the same problem starting mine,I have been using a blow dryer plugged into my generator and leave it under the hood for 15 or so minutes.
Kind of a PITA but it works.
I am now going to warm up the motor and after it is warm drain the oil from the crankcase and replace with some racing 2 stroke oil I have that is a lot thinner than the Cat oil.
I'll let you know if I am successful.
 
Liquid Cooled Engine Heater
A great way to pre-warm a liquid cooled snowmobile engine. Your machine will pull over and start much easier. Also, there is less chance of cold engine piston scoring. Fits 1"ID hose. 375 watt. I have put a few on for customers, they really work good.
That's if you have access to electricity all the time.
 
Does the pressure running through the throttle bodies not try to push the fuel backward through the primer? I have thought about this as well but I thought it would reverse flow into the tank under boost?


Sent from my iPhone via magic!
 
come on ,, old timers like me use a primer too..!!!

install a fitting into your fuel line BEFORE the pump .. in the case of these kats, you would be better served to install a little fitting into you tank near the bottom for a dedicated line with no pressure on it.. yes fuel pressure will damage the primer so do NOT install it on the pressure side...( or at least it is supposed to damage it and cause it to bleed fuel..)

god and turbos love a little shot of fuel.. reeds gigle like kids at chistmas too!!!
 
Have been running a race gas M1000 on C16 for the past 3 years. I pack a small Butane mini torch and quickly heat up the cylinders and head with it and the sled fires up easy in cold weather. Hasnt been an issue. ......just make sure your sled has no fuel leaks:bounce:
 
Dam it about died again yesterday getting it started. Recoil skipped a beat.

Left shoulder is feeling it this morning. Pretty bad when you feel like you had your A$$ kicked and you haven't even got off the trailer.

I am going with starting fluid for now until I get another idea.

I feel like I need one of those top fuel dragster starters to spin it off the crank.

Thunder

On a side note. Holy crap does this thing pull. mmmm love the HP and 75-80 mph track speed. Ya Hoo
 
come on ,, old timers like me use a primer too..!!!

install a fitting into your fuel line BEFORE the pump .. in the case of these kats, you would be better served to install a little fitting into you tank near the bottom for a dedicated line with no pressure on it.. yes fuel pressure will damage the primer so do NOT install it on the pressure side...( or at least it is supposed to damage it and cause it to bleed fuel..)

god and turbos love a little shot of fuel.. reeds gigle like kids at chistmas too!!!

Agreed! I run a primer on my turbo too. Lots of cool things about a primer system.

First, it allows you to get rid of the questionable internal pump and use a good old very reliable external pump. When you prime the TBs or reeds(i use my oil injector ports-premix), it generally starts first or second pull every time. I know it doesnt make it easier to pull, but at least you dont have to pull your guts out. When it fires, it immediately makes enough voltage for the electric pump to take over.

Using a primer source T just before your external pump, a primer will pull fuel right up to the pump, thereby priming it too.

They do go bad by the end of the season, but for $20 of easy insurance, i dont mind putting a new one on every year!

Old school stuff rock!
 
Starting fluid won't do it. Tried it tonight. No go. Wouldn't fire with a one second shot in the turbo inlet. Wasn't going to spray any more.

I only have the intank pump, so wondering where I would tie in a primer line?

I am darn neared ready to pull the power valves and dump some fuel in the cylinders. (much easiery than pulling the pipe and plugs)

If I can get one good fire, I have the full 40psi of fuel pressure.

Thunder
 
I only have the intank pump, so wondering where I would tie in a primer line?


If I can get one good fire, I have the full 40psi of fuel pressure.

Thunder


I wonder if a guy drilled a hole in the top of the tank, just slightly smaller diameter than the OD of the primer line and jammed and pulled a couple ft of line into the tank. A weight on the end and let it flop down to the bottom. A little sealant around the hose at the tank for good measure.
 
A 12 volt coolant heater that you could plug into your pickup power would be cool. Do they even make such an animal?


FORDpickupman
 
ippielb posted a nice inline heater. wonder if a 12v converter would power it. This would be the ticket.

One question I have now is I don't know if it is increased compression or all the two stroke oil in the cylinder that makes it so hard to pull over.

I had to pull my Y pipe last night and the cylinders were stuffed with oil and gas, thats a good thing, but I also noticed the oil is "Sticky" as hell. So the sticktion when cold is huge.

Anybody notice a difference in "pull over" effort after a oil injection delete kit?

Thunder
 
The oil being cold is what make it hard to turn over when its cold. Do you have the switch that bypasses the temp. sending unit so you can start the sled if it gets to hot. If so flip the switch to kill the sled when you put it to bed. It will help when starting cold due to the extra fuel washing the oil out of the cylinders. Use to do that with sled that had chokes, flood them with the choke when you put them to bed. Also if you have the switch, flip it when you start it cold as it will richen the fuel mixture help the sled start easier. Another thing that will help get your fuel pressure up faster is to pinch off the return line out of the regulator so you dont bypass any fuel.

I had oil delete on my 1000 and it made no difference pulling it over when it was cold out. It just pulled over really hard with the 15 to 1 head on it. warming the cylinders up worked the best to start it. Just heated them up with a torch.
 
x2... exactly what I posted above for the TM1000....Micro sized butane torch.....10sec warming cylinders and head and starts 2nd pull every time no matter how cold. Torch works great for starting fire at lunch as well!
 
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