Geez, I haven't looked at this for a while and wow lots of stuff on here.
Tuning clutches is fun but can be frustrating with lack of knowledge.
I was reading somewhere guys were all over the place with clutch kit # xyw versus clutch kit pow etc etc. I did read where one guy who has a good rep was trying to say GET THE CLUTCHES BALANCED / EVEN. I don't think anyone even picked up on that.
So, before you start experimenting with all the cool internet stuff that's out there why don't you figure out what you really NEED, and then fine tune around that?
It takes a certain angle on a helix in a given clutch to match the load in your particular sled w/ your weight / track / hp etc. This will enable the driven clutch to "hang on to the belt". The driven clutch is the "brains of the outfit"!!
It is the the only element in the equation that "senses" torque. There's enough guys with equipment posting on here to roughly guess helix angle for your sled to get started.
Before you get into all the tuning variables, you need to find the weight requirements in the primary to MATCH up with what you have in the driven.
On a Skidoo it's easier just because they have the clickers to get in the ball park.
If you don't have one, go down and buy a heat gun @ Napa or wherever you want so you can monitor clutch heat. That's the "report card" of how you're doing.
Now, on a Skidoo with clickers, adjust to where you get full rpm, doesn't matter if you're on clicker 1 or 4, just get the rpm correct. Get in a big load situation where you can work it like you want to and see what the clutches do for heat. Black felt marker makes a good spot on inner sheeves to read off of.
99% of the time the drive will be running hotter usually because most guys want to run as much weight as they can = overpowering the driven.
Try pulling weight out of the drive clutch, or, if that makes the heat balance worse, add weight until you get the heat as close as you can between the clutches. If after they are balanced really good and still too hot you need to go down on helix angle for your given sled and start over.
I can't stress enough to get this first, before you start trying xyz ramps / 777 clutch kit etc.
Obviously, the driven spring & the primary spring and ramps are all part of the equation to get the rpm /shift / clicker choice / performance that you want. Just get the weight figured out to match up with your driven FIRST!! If your clutches are slipping you're going around and around in circles.
I've had really good luck in the last few years going down on helix angle with a really soft spring in the Team tied. Makes it act more like a Paragon instead of like the old Team with the monster springs that just run into a wall and won't shift out all the way.
Good luck!
Tuning clutches is fun but can be frustrating with lack of knowledge.
I was reading somewhere guys were all over the place with clutch kit # xyw versus clutch kit pow etc etc. I did read where one guy who has a good rep was trying to say GET THE CLUTCHES BALANCED / EVEN. I don't think anyone even picked up on that.
So, before you start experimenting with all the cool internet stuff that's out there why don't you figure out what you really NEED, and then fine tune around that?
It takes a certain angle on a helix in a given clutch to match the load in your particular sled w/ your weight / track / hp etc. This will enable the driven clutch to "hang on to the belt". The driven clutch is the "brains of the outfit"!!
It is the the only element in the equation that "senses" torque. There's enough guys with equipment posting on here to roughly guess helix angle for your sled to get started.
Before you get into all the tuning variables, you need to find the weight requirements in the primary to MATCH up with what you have in the driven.
On a Skidoo it's easier just because they have the clickers to get in the ball park.
If you don't have one, go down and buy a heat gun @ Napa or wherever you want so you can monitor clutch heat. That's the "report card" of how you're doing.
Now, on a Skidoo with clickers, adjust to where you get full rpm, doesn't matter if you're on clicker 1 or 4, just get the rpm correct. Get in a big load situation where you can work it like you want to and see what the clutches do for heat. Black felt marker makes a good spot on inner sheeves to read off of.
99% of the time the drive will be running hotter usually because most guys want to run as much weight as they can = overpowering the driven.
Try pulling weight out of the drive clutch, or, if that makes the heat balance worse, add weight until you get the heat as close as you can between the clutches. If after they are balanced really good and still too hot you need to go down on helix angle for your given sled and start over.
I can't stress enough to get this first, before you start trying xyz ramps / 777 clutch kit etc.
Obviously, the driven spring & the primary spring and ramps are all part of the equation to get the rpm /shift / clicker choice / performance that you want. Just get the weight figured out to match up with your driven FIRST!! If your clutches are slipping you're going around and around in circles.
I've had really good luck in the last few years going down on helix angle with a really soft spring in the Team tied. Makes it act more like a Paragon instead of like the old Team with the monster springs that just run into a wall and won't shift out all the way.
Good luck!
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