What is everyone running for clutching in there 09 d8 800. Looking for something to run in the deep powder around 5-7 thousand ft. Right now im just runing the stock clutching.
Clutching
- Thread starter DragonSled
- Start date
Try a 62-42-.46 helix w/ a lime green primary spring. Leave everything else the same.
DragonStew, I am running that helix this year along with some spring changes. What kind of difference can I expect from this helix. I know it's a general question , just looking for some feedback.
I noticed a huge jump once that intial angle is changed from the 56 to either the 62/64. I'm actually running a 64-42-.46 w/ stock secondary spring, Ron's 63 gram weights with a silver primary, but I have the SLP single- Vforce etc. and geared 19/42. By the way you have my old Forum Name. I was Stewy on the original Snowest Forum. Did you get the update down yet to your sled?
It's at the dealer right now. I am sending all 4 shocks to Hygear for re-valving. The update will be done before my shocks are back. The early cold has made my dealer very busy. They sold 50 sleds last weekend during their open house sale! I am running A new helix along with spring changes and I can't wait to run it with the changes. I actually spoke with Chris @ Carls even though I'm a flatlander I bought the set-up he suggested for my elevation, great guy very knowledgable. I am also puttting in a 24 Top gear to lower my ratio and get more trail snap :} When you say huge jump do you mean engagement or snappyness?
Well I hope your not revalving the WE's, to each their own but I think those shocks are worthless. I have been very pleased with my Zbro Exit shocks. When I say jump I mean engagment and throttle response, you'll see less trenching off the start with this steeper intial angle on the helix. I've spoke with Chris before, don't get me wrong, great guy but I don't think they have these Dragon 8's complete figured out for my side of the mountains. They suggested the belly busters and they just did not perform. They can give you a good baseline to start with then you must do your own tweaking if you want optimum performance out of your clutching.
Yes I am revalving the Walkers. I am removing the needle and having a different stack put in along with different dual rate springs. The Helix Chris recommended is the same one that is being run in pre-packaged clutch kits around here. With his help I put together some changes to try. There are several good revalving packages available for a X-country type of rider. Removing the needle is key, gotta get rid of that scrub. Time will tell. But I feel we are on the right track.
They didn't recommend Belly Busters to me.
They didn't recommend Belly Busters to me.
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so what was the baseline set up that chris said? seems to me everyone runs the helix with a little different set up in the front
64-42-.46 helix. Stock springs
yes i would say at 4000 to 6000ft most seem to run a 64 ish helix and about 64g wieghts . springs and shims seem to be up to the rider.hows that for a baseline. funny that we dont want to share all are tunning tips. i did see some on here but work for them may not for you. i think some tips to start will save all us tunners some cash in the end
I agree. I took ownership of this d8 in Dec. 2007 and nobody had a clue about clutching these things. I do have to give props. to Chris @ Carls, they were the only ones that actually new anything about them. Now with alot of help from Ron and Mike (AKSNOW), there's a few solid setups that can be used. I have no problem helping people start and telling them what worked for me. My 2
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G_dub
Member
I agree with what you said at the end. Sharing info helps everyone in the end. I came off a ski doo and clutching info there with a doo and so much of it it's ridiculous. Dyno Joe, Rooster built, Lund these are just scratching the surface of the guy's with the doo's clutching down. plus Felker's is down the road doesnt get much better than that.
Now on my D8 163 I have discussed a little with a few people. I ride 9500 to 12K but occasionally from 5K to 7K and all points in between. but primarily at the 9500 plus range. i know i need a helix change and go with a gear change but what weight on the arm's does it need a little lighter primary spring to allow you to add more weight in the arm's to load the motor harder. I just feel we need a more in depth D8 Clutching thread.
Quoting Lund from doo talk.
How i set up a primary clutch again no matter what make,i alway throw at it as much weight the motor can handle and use the lightess primary spring possible,its not just about weighing it up till she bogs NO.It generaly means swapping gears and watching the shift pattern on the clutches.You want to find the right combo that will use the entire clutch surfaces or near.Unfortunatly hot tunning takes yrs of practice and there is no one way about it,lots of trial and error.But that is my general way i go about.
Just wonder if any one has taken this approach on these sled's
Now the secondary is different when it comes to these sled's I understand the Doo junk just want to learn the team stuff now.
SLP has this http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=3&catID=17&productID=89
I dunno Polaris clutching is tough to get good info about and i have searched and read the other threads and there is some good info on set-up's but i'm poor and can't afford alot of trial and error.
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here is the end all be all of d8 clutching threads!
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128754&highlight=clutching
Good discussion and quite a few different set ups. Take in the variables of where you ride, piped or non, etc.
I found that with a heavy heel weight you could control trenching with the weight and keep the 56 or 58 initial angle of the helix. My motor really liked heavy springs and heavy weights.
If I was going to try it again, the Heavy Hitters from Thunder Products look like an easily tuned weight.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=128754&highlight=clutching
Good discussion and quite a few different set ups. Take in the variables of where you ride, piped or non, etc.
I found that with a heavy heel weight you could control trenching with the weight and keep the 56 or 58 initial angle of the helix. My motor really liked heavy springs and heavy weights.
If I was going to try it again, the Heavy Hitters from Thunder Products look like an easily tuned weight.
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Going Up
New member
Dragonstew - What elevation do you typically ride with that setup?
I have a couple questions -
1. Basic helix question - what exactly are the angles? My 09 D8 currently has a 56-42-36 helix installed. What do these angles mean? I have an old 64-38-36 helix I had run in my 900. Would this be an improvement or should I be looking for a 64-42-.46?
2. I bought this sled at the tail end of last season and only got a couple rides in. The sled is bone stock. Probably no changes except clutching and a pipe for this year. The setup when I got it was:
- Primary Spring: Black 140/330 (Stock)
- 10-58 G Weights (Set up for 10,000 ft elevation)
- Helix: 56-42-36 ER
- Secondary Clutch Spring: Black Purple (Stock)
- Gearing - I have not visually check but he said it was stock gearing.
I ride 4-7,000 ft so need to get this clutching dialed in for my elevation. any reccomendations on what to change or where to start?
Going up, I hope I can explain this. 56/42-.36 The first number is the initial angle. The second number is the primary angle. The last number is the length of the first angle. So your helix has a 56 degree starting angle that is .36" long before it becomes a 42 degree angle. Clear as mud huh?
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Going Up
New member
Excellent - So now how does that relate to the performance of the clutch?
Why is a 62 initial angle going to help over a 56?
What about the 2nd (primary) slope what should you expect to happen if this angle is increased or decreased?
does the length of that initial angle play into it much?
Why is a 62 initial angle going to help over a 56?
What about the 2nd (primary) slope what should you expect to happen if this angle is increased or decreased?
does the length of that initial angle play into it much?
I'm a little rusty on the new Polaris stuff, but did play around with our '09 Dragon 163 last year....both stock and turbo.
In general (JMHO).....NEVER try to load the engine with a steep helix, especially with a TEAM. Control RPM and upshift with the primary (heavy weights), and run no more than a 58/40.46 on a mountain sled with a big track. (flatland a different story).
A team with more than 40-42 finish angle does not make enough belt squeeze for a heavy tracked mountain sled....it will make more heat after a few pulls.
We got nice gain by simply going with a 58/38.46, 10-64 weights and a little less primary spring to allow a strong upshift and have a quick/solid backshift. Walked from a stock clutched Dragon and held climbing RPM better.
I know there are better setups than what I was able to find, just adding my .02 on the helix thing....I see so many guys going steep on the helix like they are running the flats and then complain the Team makes too much heat.
Your setup should vary with the type of riding you do.
In general (JMHO).....NEVER try to load the engine with a steep helix, especially with a TEAM. Control RPM and upshift with the primary (heavy weights), and run no more than a 58/40.46 on a mountain sled with a big track. (flatland a different story).
A team with more than 40-42 finish angle does not make enough belt squeeze for a heavy tracked mountain sled....it will make more heat after a few pulls.
We got nice gain by simply going with a 58/38.46, 10-64 weights and a little less primary spring to allow a strong upshift and have a quick/solid backshift. Walked from a stock clutched Dragon and held climbing RPM better.
I know there are better setups than what I was able to find, just adding my .02 on the helix thing....I see so many guys going steep on the helix like they are running the flats and then complain the Team makes too much heat.
Your setup should vary with the type of riding you do.from what i have been told.. 58 goto a 64 will make it pull harder out of the hole..my 08 d8 came with 62g a blue/pink spring and a 58 helix. i put 64g in and it pulled harder but not rev`s out a 8000 flat. carls has a kit with a custom cut helix spring and wieghts for about $300. they didnt say angles or weight but its a kit for the not so much tunner. guys that run 68g whats your top rpms?
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Going Up
New member
Does link work for anyone else? I can't seem to get it to work.
