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clutching, what works in the mountain?

Norway

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
We see new, or "new", clutching components showing up here from time to time. Weights, covers, clutches, springs etc.

Can we produce a listing of what really works? I know it's a tricky thing since the success of the component is depending on the user as well, but I would like to hear about things that have been changed one thing at a time to give a sure gain.

Example:
Sledder xx switched from AC to Poo weights, both 54 grams, and felt much improved shifting/backshifting etc.

Anyone?

RS
 
if you select a sled im sure the boys can give you some options that have real performance improvements. Also the aftermarket pipe and fueling companies have great tech on gearing and clutching.
 
what works is:
1.) starting with a good belt and components that are clean, aligned and in proper working order
2.) understanding how your clutch is performing to start with and then understanding how changes to gear ratio, helix angle, spring pressures and rates change the performance of the clutch
3.) last little adjustment is to dial in rpm with the primary.

90% of the time this can all be done with easily available and affordable OEM or Team components.
 
what works is:
1.) starting with a good belt and components that are clean, aligned and in proper working order
2.) understanding how your clutch is performing to start with and then understanding how changes to gear ratio, helix angle, spring pressures and rates change the performance of the clutch
3.) last little adjustment is to dial in rpm with the primary.

90% of the time this can all be done with easily available and affordable OEM or Team components.

I hear what you're saying and have to agree, but you dont answer the Q in the thread.
You leave 10% for special stuff, what would that be?

Thanks,
Rune
 
OK 90%........bad estimate. 99% of the time is more like it.

but to answer let's say you are competing in grass drags and you want a unusually high engagement RPM so would grind a notch in your clutch wieghts. This might work for your race but not the best choice for boondocking or hillclimbing.

My only point is that you can spent alot of money with minimal or no gain on some new exotic, top secret, cool looking, hi tech clutch chit that has not yet satisfied the test of time..........sort of like the HyperLite secondary clutch....remember that one....holy cow.

it's rare that the range of stock OEM tuning components can't meet your every need for tuning your clutch to your desired level of performance in a wide variety of conditions.

For me, I have found that gearing to a higher ratio and going with less helix angle has provided the single biggest gain for me and the type of riding I prefer. Pulls like a frieght train, great throttle response, cooler clutches, longer lasting belts, better able to maintain max RPM on hillclimbs especially in heavy/wet snow,
 
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For me, I have found that gearing to a higher ratio and going with less helix angle has provided the single biggest gain for me and the type of riding I prefer. Pulls like a frieght train, great throttle response, cooler clutches, longer lasting belts, better able to maintain max RPM on hillclimbs especially in heavy/wet snow,

OK, I like this. Just to be sure, you talk about more teeth on the upper/fewer on the lower + less helix, right? Care to show me your example/the "tall" combo you've found?

RS
 
More hints at what I'm looking for:

Cat secondary: roller or button?
Big bushing covers for primarys (Hi-Tech, STM etc.)
Heel-x
Different weights for the primary; supertips, MTX, MDS, Lightening, Dalton, SPI
Weight curves, aggressive or not? For all engines/sleds?
Mass in the heel vs. tip, used with long stroked twins vs. high revving triples?
Helix angles, straight or 2-3 angles? Who makes good helixes with good transition points?

RS
 
OK, I like this. Just to be sure, you talk about more teeth on the upper/fewer on the lower + less helix, right? Care to show me your example/the "tall" combo you've found?

RS

Nope, higher gear ratio would be opposite if that. less teeth on the upper/ more on the lower. I run a 19/47 on my doo which is a 2.47 most mountain sleds come factory around 2.2 i think
 
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