Clutching Help

[FrequentFlyer]

I cleaned my sheaves before the last ride (with IPA) and adjusted my belt deflection. Ride was about 45 miles in fairly setup snow - made a few climbs and a few long sidehill pulls, but most of the day was just boondocking in the trees. Checked my clutch after the ride and it looks to me like the belt could be slipping at full shift out. Clutching is stock - except for I am running Carl's helix and the bearing (whatever the bearing is - just went with their recommended setup). When I did watch the tach, I was seeing 8100-8200 on long climbs, did not notice any belt fade or any other issues.

Can someone help me out with some ideas on what could be causing this?

 

[Carls Cycle]

PM'd you.

 

[FrequentFlyer]

forgot to mention track is 163"

 

[knocksum]

The bearing adds force to the spring. Too much clamping force and you will slip in the primary and not fully shift out.

 

[ak]

What angle are you running on that helix?
What elevation?
What primary weights?
And is your belt deflection set right.

 

[FrequentFlyer]

I don't know what angle Carl's is using. Same one as what they used on the pro. Maybe someone here can answer that.

Belt deflection should be good, but that is the last thing I changed. Have about 300 mi on the belt so I broke the jam nut loose and backed it out the adjuster 1/2 turn. Fired it up and it wasn't squeaking so I figured I did not go too far. Anyone think it is possible that I screwed up on the adjustment?

Elevation was around 6000 - 7500.

Weights and primary/secondary spring are stock. Only had them put in the helix and the bearing.

Thanks in advance for your help,
FF

 

[snobyrd]

Save yourself some grief and money and just install the recommended clutching by polaris. We have been around the clutching world for almost 2 seasons now and stock is best, pol i feel, didnt leave much improvement on the table.

 

[FrequentFlyer]

Thanks for the reply snobyrd - thats pretty much the way it is setup - only the helix was changed. Everything else is stock recommended setup.

So the sled pulls great and I have 0 complaints about how it is running. Actually, could not be happier. But am concerned about the belt residue being left behind at the top of the primary sheeve - looks like it is fully shifting out, but slipping? Never felt it thought.

Anyone see this on their clutch before?

 

[snobyrd]

Thanks for the reply snobyrd - thats pretty much the way it is setup - only the helix was changed. Everything else is stock recommended setup.

So the sled pulls great and I have 0 complaints about how it is running. Actually, could not be happier. But am concerned about the belt residue being left behind at the top of the primary sheeve - looks like it is fully shifting out, but slipping? Never felt it thought.

Anyone see this on their clutch before?

If your running aftermarket helix than switch back and your problems should go away.
I bought a carls clutch kit back in 14, was a waste of money, my first ride i grenaded a belt, removed it and never blew another one.
I tried a2d clutch kit in my axys and again a total waste of money, just get it in your mind that stock is best.
I think the fuel map is the biggest problem, pol offers a 4 yr warranty with mapping they know is very safe.

 

[FrequentFlyer]

If your running aftermarket helix than switch back and your problems should go away.
I bought a carls clutch kit back in 14, was a waste of money, my first ride i grenaded a belt, removed it and never blew another one.
I tried a2d clutch kit in my axys and again a total waste of money, just get it in your mind that stock is best.
I think the fuel map is the biggest problem, pol offers a 4 yr warranty with mapping they know is very safe.

Thanks for taking the time to respond -

I have had the exact opposite experience with Carl's setups. BTW - the helix is not aftermarket, it is a team helix, just a different angle.

 

[Latitude 62]

I would suggest you get the Belly Buster weights to complete your clutch kit. My friends and I all run the Carls set up at 3000 to 7000 feet with great success! This set up in our sleds drives away from stockers and we get great belt life as well. My belt went over 800 miles last year, started to lose performance right at the end, so went to a new belt and use the old one as a spare. My 2 cents.

 

[volcano buster]

I'm in a different boat. I have a Carl's 660 and I have to ride it on a cloudy day with their clutching. It doesn't have enough snap to pull its own shadow.

I have had to continue to play around with the clutching on my own to get it closer to correct.

 

[ak]

Might be worth it to buy there recommended weights you can find them on Amazon. There are two angles on the helix a 40 and a 42
Run the 42 if it will pull it. Clean your clutches, scotch brite the faces and run the belt as tight as possible. Were you in dry fluffy snow when it left the marks?

 

[dragonflats]

PM'd you.

What did they say

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

[Latitude 62]

I would also add that when you changed your belt deflection, you also changed your offset alignment. You need to adjust your offset after deflection adjustments.

 

[FrequentFlyer]

What did they say

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

No response yet - the person that sent the pm asked a couple of questions but hasn't gotten back to me. I'm going to drive down and talk to them. It's just across town, I was being lazy and figured someone on here would look at that picture and know exactly what caused it. Guess no one has seen this before?

Someone asked if I was in deep fluffy snow - it was not fluffy, good base with about 18" of fairly dense powder.

On the deflection adjustment effecting offset - thats interesting, have never checked offset after adjusting deflection before because it is such a small tweak. Maybe I should double check that. I would be surprised, but worth checking for sure.

Thanks for everyone's input. More is welcome.

Cheers,
FF

 

[adamg]

If your running aftermarket helix than switch back and your problems should go away.
I bought a carls clutch kit back in 14, was a waste of money, my first ride i grenaded a belt, removed it and never blew another one.
I tried a2d clutch kit in my axys and again a total waste of money, just get it in your mind that stock is best.
I think the fuel map is the biggest problem, pol offers a 4 yr warranty with mapping they know is very safe.

What are my options for changing the fuel map? What do you recommend? Head, pipe, and some kind of flash / tuner?