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Clutching apex turbo#with pitcure#

Hi!

New to this site and the best site so far. Have read many threads and got more then one good anwers here:) Have read the hole thread about clutching . Im going to start clutching my sled and need some help.

Yamaha Rx Warrior/Apex year 2007. Have Stage 2 Turbo MCX 290hk kit. Gearing 22/38 68L. 44mm down cut to 40mm, 345 lengh 2,54 fully clippt bombardier track. Had al shocks serve and new schims and sag 40mm. change al bearings drive shaft, secondary shaft and monoshock skid bearings and put some billet x wheels. Control rod max. limither strap 2 down from fully loose, 9 tooth skidoo non slip, tri-pack 60cl to 20 litre 98 fuel. I´m 1,92cm long, weight 110kg. Have now Mcx kit and feel theirs to be a little to light and not satisfied with them . Problem like many others from start the sled goes very easly to orbit stop. Fotress has not been the best but like to see if i could get it to do better . 1,1 bar 297 hk. Have order supertip and yellow silver yellow spring for primary. Im thinking going with the shockwave helix and mabye a Epi purple spring when i find one to a good price. Have now mcx black spring and 54/48 helix. Spring in number 3-3 yamaha white, too work with. How should i set my supertip weight and what should i do with the secondary? please explain so i understand. Total newbie on clutching .

Thanks in advance / Rizzzo North sweden

mcx helix.JPG apex helix spring.JPG
 
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Mcx spring and old mcx weight i had instal before.

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Just to clear a couple of things, you have Yamaha White secondary spring in 3-3 = 60°.
And the helix is an Dalton 54/48°.
 
I can give you a couple of pointers to start with.
Supertip 60g is a good choice which i had good success with.
I would load them 14g in the innerhole to get a good belt grip in the start and to keep it from the rpm limiter.
After this i only guess for your driving and machine, i would start with, 6g in the middle and 4g in tip.
I wouldn't buy the shockwave to start with, and i wouldn't buy an EPI purple either, the helix you got work pretty good on an Warrior, and you don't need such hard spring with so short track.
If you buy an straight shockwave you might need an stiffer spring tho, but an EPI purple is pretty stiff, maybe an AC red/white would work better.
If you pound much pow i would buy an shockwave and an stiffer spring, if you drive mostly trail i would try an red/white with your helix.
 
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Will wait and test this berfore consider getting shockwave and another spring for secondary. Have to test this out to see how the sled is running with this setup and how secondary work with the new weight and spring and mabye change spring to 6 something.
 
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Interesting how you came up with that setup.
I could give you some info about the spring "mabye change spring to 6 something" but i guess you'll find out.
 
Have read many threads about clutching, but have nerver clutch a sled before in my life and like it to be perfect. I now that it takes many hours and patience to get it right and if i can get a little help on the way, I gladly take it. I have looked att ulmer racing home page and they have some directions how to set your secondary clutch. I can see thats it´s only one hole in secondary and then you have 0,3,6,9 on helix, if I mark where it sits now
and take it apart set it in 6 and wrap it to my marker, have i done it right then and whats my degre then? dont understand degre.
 
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Can some on give me some info about spring setting in secondary?
Dalton helix 54/48. Need how to start at right setting. Im putting on more weight on supertip then i have on mcx. change the spring from yamaha/white to yellow/silver/yellow. Have the secondary in 3-3=60 degree and its yamaha /white. More or less degree?

Thanks in andvance / Rizzzo
 
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there are three holes in the clutch 1-2-3 and then the helix has 0-3-6-9. we are running a cat red white in my bros mcx apex at 3-6 and it seems to work well at 5000 ft. Now is that what they'd call 90 degrees? I have never know that either. I do know it takes 2 guys to get it back together.
 
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