I am looking for some advice on how I should set up my clutch on my 14 pro. I am going to ride at togwotee for a week then will be back to riding the U.P. in Michigan. For togwotee a buddy suggested I run SLP blue pink primary, team black purple secondary w/derlin washer & 10-60 weights. This seems like a great setup but when I come back home I ride with the black primary and 10-68 weights. Is it worth spending the money for the SLP setup then having to change it around when I come home? Is there anything else I should be doing for the low elevation michigan riding? I have never changed the secondary out before.
Clutching advice
- Thread starter RanOutofTalent
- Start date
I've always clutched per the chart in the book and had great luck hitting the RPM'S , 8200 +/-.
I have needed to go up or down with the weights depending on snow conditions, but that's easy. Never needed to change springs beyond what the chart said.
I'm no clutch guru and I'd rather ride than wrench, so I may not be as picky as some others.
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I have needed to go up or down with the weights depending on snow conditions, but that's easy. Never needed to change springs beyond what the chart said.
I'm no clutch guru and I'd rather ride than wrench, so I may not be as picky as some others.
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i ran book suggested clutching on my ’14 pro last year at togwotee. 10-60 weights, black/purple secondary spring, left stock primary spring. sled ran great.
my buddy had his ’15 completely stock with stock clutching for 6-8000 ft there as well. his sled ran great also.
my buddy had his ’15 completely stock with stock clutching for 6-8000 ft there as well. his sled ran great also.
how picky are you about clutching? Not picky, just change the weights and leave the springs alone. Picky about clutching? Change primary weights and spring and change driven spring and helix. I run a complete different driven setup in the mountains than I do in the midwest flatland. But then I change tracks for the mountains also.
Just set it up per Polaris book clutching as others have mentioned. Polaris did a very good job clutching the pro. I've found it's very hard to improve on. If you are going to be doing some serious belt heating hillclimbing you'll want the Black/Purple. If your going to mostly be trail riding with the occasional dinky hill pull the stock secondary spring will be fine.
D
dp2826
Well-known member
Where can I find what Polaris recommends for different elevations? Is there a chart somewhere?
Your owners manual
If I replace the stock secondary with team black purple secondary will I need to change it back to the stock for riding below 2k elevation in michigan? Changing the primary and the weights is easy but I rather not pull apart the secondary unless I have to.
Clutching for high elevation can be a challenge. The spring changes you talked about are slight with black primary at 130/340 and the Blue/Pink at 140/340. You will get the same top end RPM with a lower engagement RPM on the Black. The weights will make the biggest change. Go with the 10-60 for 8k up and you will be just fine. If you decide to go all out the Black/ Purple secondary spring would be the Book choice for 8k up. Sometimes it easy to over think the clutch combos.
would you change stock clutching for the U.P on regular 13 rmk?
Personal I always default to the factory specs. Then figure out what its not doing right and fix one item at a time until you get it right. So often we change too many things at once and never figure out what one helped and which ones just made our wallet lighter.
A 250 pound rider vs a 120 ponder is all different. 500 ft above sea level or 8,000 is different. How much beer to you carry on the tunnel?
Depends on the riding, if you are going to be doing WOT pulls you will definitely want to go to a heavier weight. I trail ride my sled minimally with mountain clutching here in MN @ ~1200 feet, but I am very easy on the throttle. You don't want to be over-revving the engine.
