I was out at valemount this weekend to try my new mods on my 2012 pro rmk which include a 2.5 inch 174, 13.1 to 1 pa head, hps can, 19 43 gears, blue pink slp primary spring and 8 tooth avid drives. Last year I would run 8150 rpm consistently this year though with the changes I'm seeing 7950 to 8000. I'm running stock primary weights and was wondering how many grams they are and what I should change them to so I can get back up to 8150 to 8200 ish. Thanks!
Clutching advice please
- Thread starter Sledhead80
- Start date
how many miles on that belt ? what gram weights do you have in it now?
what do you weigh ? how many miles on the motor?
i'm sure you'll get lots of help but i figured i'd get all the Qs your gonna get out of the way
(p.s. the weight in grams in on the side of the weight)
what do you weigh ? how many miles on the motor?
i'm sure you'll get lots of help but i figured i'd get all the Qs your gonna get out of the way
(p.s. the weight in grams in on the side of the weight)
J
Jeff K
Well-known member
Call Steve at MDS and get a set of his adjustable weights. They are a HUGE improvement over the stock weights. I ran my 2013 with MDS clutching against a stock 2013 sled and the difference was absolutely amazing.
I am running the MDS weights at 67gms, a black/green primary spring and a black/purple secondary.
I am running the MDS weights at 67gms, a black/green primary spring and a black/purple secondary.
i believe stock pro weights are 10-64, if you are losing peak operating rpm you want to put in lighter weights, try going down to 10-62 or 10-60 weights, that will increase your operating rpm
F
frog
Well-known member
I would post what you have in the sled exactly in order to get some usefull info. Without knowing all we can do is speculate. Check belt to sheave clearance to get an idea of how worn the belt may be. You state you are running the stock weights, stock for what elevation? Pol also recommends the use of a stiffer seconday spring over a certain elevation, are you running that spring or are you running the spring the sled came with from the factory in the secondary? Not trying to be difficult but would be easier to know what you have first instead of assuming.
If you can hold 7950 - 8000 rpm's on a climb in deep snow leave it alone. Alot of people on here recommend clutching them for that rpm. At most go with a slightly higher end rate on your primary spring and see if that gets you where you want to be.
G
Going West
Well-known member
If you geared down you will need slightly lighter weights to hold the same RPM. If your happy with the rest of the clutch performance ie back shift, up shift, then just drop a gram or two on your weights.
Are you looking at RPM on the flats or is that on a deep climb?
With the heavier track and IF you determine you need a little more RPM I would look at the secondary....heavier or longer tracks typically like a little more secondary spring or shallower helix. Just a "general" rule.
Make a pull on a hill and see which clutch is hotter....this is a good tool to determine where to make a change.
With the heavier track and IF you determine you need a little more RPM I would look at the secondary....heavier or longer tracks typically like a little more secondary spring or shallower helix. Just a "general" rule.
Make a pull on a hill and see which clutch is hotter....this is a good tool to determine where to make a change.
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