I'm sure this has been asked before, most likely multiple times, but I wanted to change out my own clutch weights because I'm sick of hauling it to the dealer every time i wanna go to the mountains and then come home. I had heard that after you take the front plate and spring out you should be able to pry apart the next piece enough to pull the weights out....is this true or is it more indepth?
clutch weights
- Thread starter puckster
- Start date
Pretty simple to change clutch weights.. get 2 good sized straight screwdrivers(about 12-16 in long), a 1/2in. chrome socket, an eigth in alan wrench(I think?), and a 3/8 wrench...so you remove the belt, use the two screwdrivers to pry open the clutch by slipping them between the spider and the movable sheave, once open far enough you slip the socket in to hold the clutch closed, then remove the weight bolts 1 at a time and remove the weights, install new weights and when all done pry the clutch back open and remove the socket...best to have someone show you how to do it first though..then do it yourself with them watching....
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Bossman
Well-known member
changing clutch weights
Use a pry bar or large standard screw driver to pry moveable sheave towards engine and insert a 9mm 1/4 drive deep socket between one clutch weight and spider roller. Remove other 2 clutch weights with 1/4 drive socket and allen wrench and install new weights. Pry sheave over, move socket 1/3 turn and replace last weight. Remove 9mm socket and ride at new altitude.
Use a pry bar or large standard screw driver to pry moveable sheave towards engine and insert a 9mm 1/4 drive deep socket between one clutch weight and spider roller. Remove other 2 clutch weights with 1/4 drive socket and allen wrench and install new weights. Pry sheave over, move socket 1/3 turn and replace last weight. Remove 9mm socket and ride at new altitude.
S
seth25
Well-known member
Let's bring this back to the top. Good information here.
I just changed from 62 to 58g weights. Took me 45 min to change and this was trying different prying devises, finding correct size Allen and sockets, and cleaning the weight pins and blowing out the clutch.
If you are running the wrong weights cause you don't want to haul it down to the dealer or are scared of the process, just do it. Snow is coming!!
I just changed from 62 to 58g weights. Took me 45 min to change and this was trying different prying devises, finding correct size Allen and sockets, and cleaning the weight pins and blowing out the clutch.
If you are running the wrong weights cause you don't want to haul it down to the dealer or are scared of the process, just do it. Snow is coming!!
P
PalousePoo
Well-known member
years ago I had a slp tool that worked good. Was a pry bar and u shaped piece that went over the crank bolt against the outer plate. you could change all three safely and without moving a " little socket" holding the tension Either way, you don't need to pull the cover and spring.
Just be careful because the prying can damage the clutch (it is soft). Also, the guys here are explaining how to remove the clutch weights w/o removing the clutch. So the clutch is still on the crank. This is a good thing because removing the Polaris clutch can be a biotch to remove.
RMK-King
Super-Moderator
The easy way to change weights.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-COM...Accessories&hash=item5646cc4381#ht_2990wt_952
http://www.ebay.com/itm/POLARIS-COM...Accessories&hash=item5646cc4381#ht_2990wt_952
Hey Sledmax, does this thing really work good?? And is it an aftermarket thing or is it a Cat or Poo thing I can buy at my dealer? Thanks!
was gonna ask the same question...if anyone has one can u give me the measurements of the tool,looks easy enough to make.
Here are some pix for the new Pro guys. Changing weights will only get easier as you do it a bunch. Notice the modified fender with plastic removed. The screwdriver does not need to be custom bent - your old yellow handled 8-9" long paint can opener will do. Notice that the belt never left the vehicle, just take it off of the driven. No needle nose or special tricks to remove the weight, just use the allen wrench to move it just a tad so you can "stab" the hole and pull it out. Note how the clutch is positioned so that the weight is level, this is key.
Now, go out and practice. It should take about 15 minutes with a cup of coffee, 8 minutes without beverages. One time saver is that I alwasy carry a belt removal tool in my jacket so I don't have to fight with the tool kit.
Now, go out and practice. It should take about 15 minutes with a cup of coffee, 8 minutes without beverages. One time saver is that I alwasy carry a belt removal tool in my jacket so I don't have to fight with the tool kit.
Rick so u pry open the the spider and u put an old weight to keep it opened,then remove and install the new weight is that correct?
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BROX
Member
How do these work? I use an old weight to hold the clutch open and it works great.
I just changed out mine on my D8,first time i have ever changed weights and let me tell you not hard at all, I did it by taking the cover off. Had the sled close to a wall so i could sit on the floor and have my back against it then pushed the cover in with on hand and un did the bolts with the other( make sure if your arm needs a break you have at least 2 bolts in and across from eachother not to mess up the threads ), once the cover is off your spring slides out and you can slide back your spider and you have tons of room to change the weights. Getting the cover back on was the hardest part for me have your bolts and ratchet close. i put a sock inbetween both sheeves so the spider would stay in one spot. All said and done took about 45 mins.
Good luck.
Oh and were a glove on the hand you pushing on the cover with.
Good luck.
Oh and were a glove on the hand you pushing on the cover with.
I use a 1/2" socket to slide in between the spider and the movable(right next to the prybar), makes life much easier and you dont have to worry about the extra weight popping out and getting your fingers pinched....
S
Super Sled
Well-known member
Anyone ever stripped the 1/8 Allen bolt that holds the weights on? I just did and now I'm not sure what to do....
Sometimes, those nuts are pretty tight. When you say it's stripped, do you mean completely or does the allen wrench just "cam out" of the head when you apply torque? If the wrench cams out, make sure the hex is flat on the end and the hex is sharp (not rounded like a cheap wrench will do). If you have a "ball" end wrench, get one that is not. Sometimes, it helps to tap the wrench into the head with a hammer. If you can get the wrench to bite at all, try adding a needle nose vice-grip pliers to the head in addition to the hex key. Then put some penetrating oil on the nut, us a propane torch to apply some heat to the nut, then reapply penetrating oil and see if the nut will move. If you have no luck getting any bite on the head of the bolt, you may need to break down and use a dremel or similar tool to put flats on the head so you can use a small wrench (or perhaps the vice-grip) to hold the head while removing the nut. Another option would be to use the dremel and cut the nut to remove it. One way or another, you can get the pin out without destroying anything, it might just take a bit of patience and some different tools.
try to drive a torx bit into the hole .if not you may have to have the clutch dismantled and use a cutoff wheel to cut thru the weight and bolt...
