clutch tool
- Thread starter damx
- Start date
I believe the Polaris alignment bar is the one to go with. It leaves very little room for error or interpretation. It's more expensive than the SLP version. I bought mine from Oregon trail motorsports, I think they probably have the best price.
Agree....I use the OE tool also. My SLP tool hasn't been touched since I purchased the OE.
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gman086
Well-known member
I'm glad this question was asked because I've been wanting to know why it's even necessary if you fully float the secondary as it will self-align? We all did that with our Doos and works great. For the life of me I don't understand how come these Pros are coming with a floating spacer for the Team secondary BUT they install spacers so the actual float is only a couple mm's! I've been meaning to pull my spacers but want to hear what you guys have to say.
Thanks,
G
Thanks,
G
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rmscustom
Well-known member
I've never used either (still just use a straight edge) but from what I've been told the oem one is worth the extra $s. More precise fit with less variances in measurements being the reason.
Hadn't ever thought of that. The OEM won't work with electric start.
I use the team bar its thicker and works in more than one place
I guess I was thinking that the OEM tool fit around the entire inner sheeve. Rather it fits up against just the face of the inner sheeve. I haven't looked at the tool since last fall and forgot.
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gman086
Well-known member
Need to have a straight edge of some kind to confirm, set alignment angle between primary and secondary for optimum performance. Float itself will not always do it, and needs alittle luck if it does. If you don't have enough angle from the start, float is meaningless. Too much float isn't effective, either, without a properly aligned starting position for the secondary.
FWIW, back in the day, the doo race shop did some extensive research on float, and found that for consistent performance on the track, shimmed tight lost less hp to the track than float. On the track, with TRAs, that had the pick of belts changed often, at least. In Realville I think some float works better. Max float is 0.060" for the Pro Ride, says Poo. I believe Carl's and SLP recommends less. Poo jackshaft bearings can't take side loading, which is the principle reason Poo floats the secondary, not for consistent alignment. Doo jackshaft bearings are designed for side loading, which is why they recommend shimmed tight.
The OEM tool is the easiest I've used or seen, from either doo, poo, AC (can't speak to Yammy), or any aftermarket to determine angle and offset settings, and works well if you have to shove the engine around to adjust offset - it's stout. It's pricey. The PS-47477 works with e-start. Some aftermarket tools won't work with e-start, if that matters, or you might have e-start someday. They won't clear the ring gear on the primary. Choose wisely.
