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Clutch rebuild kits

Volvokvaloya

Member
Premium Member
Hello there..
I need clutch rebuild kits for both p85 and tss98 so they are in good shape for next season...so where should i buy this?

Thanks!
 
ET900 has worked exellent all winter..very strong and powerfull with the slp single pipe.Absolute no problems at all.Very nice work by Art at Engine Tech.
I think this motor must be one of the best trail big bore engines of them all.
Did the dyno after it was done and then got the clutch setup spot on.
Almost never use the nitrous.
 
Also found that EPI has some rebuild kits..but cannot find anything for Team tss98 :(

in HPE they have the rollers part#460079 and the moveable bushing part #180165 for the tss98
thanks for the reply on the motor I am thinking of going that way too
 
I always support my local dealer....that way he is there for me when I need him...the more I go, the better or relationship...
 
ET900 has worked exellent all winter..very strong and powerfull with the slp single pipe.Absolute no problems at all.Very nice work by Art at Engine Tech.
I think this motor must be one of the best trail big bore engines of them all.
Did the dyno after it was done and then got the clutch setup spot on.
Almost never use the nitrous.

I just checked out that motor on line that is a fine looking motor, def on my wish list. I am going to run the team tied clutch on my sled Monday going to play with some setups. It sure pulls hard in the midrange.
 
Yes if i should get a 900BB again i would go for Engine Tech or Union Bay.
I`m starting to plan a "144 Iq RR with a motor like that.
 
How many miles on the clutch?

Some clutches can be just plain worn out.

You need to check to see that the tower lands are not grooved at all. that they are flat(not wallowed out in the center of the travel) and not spread out (both sides are parallel to each other).

Also, the clutch faces need to be nice and smooth and not grooved as well.

Throwing good parts in a worn out clutch does not make it better, IMO.

Make sure the taper is clean and rust free (it should be "chased" with a taper reamer).

Lastly, it should be shimmed for the belts you are using ...probably a 3211080 belt.

There are so many people I have encountered that have a great clutch kit, great pipe and can, track and all the other goodies and the belt side clearance is not shimmed properly and the deflection is not set either. Such a simple thing, that makes a huge difference in how the sled performs, but they skip this step.

Good luck
 
About 3000 miles on the clutches.

I will go on the procedure you`re saying.

I`m using the ultimax xs belt so i need to shim it to that belt..any of you know what shims you use then?
 
You need some specialized tools to dissassemble the primary.

Not something that is possible on the sled.

Clutch holding fixture (no real way to make something to work well)

Spider nut tool

Spider tool

Clutch puller

Have a look at Rons post on the P-85 service.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=87640

Each clutch is different and requires shims to get the specified clearance.

Many posts on this on the forum here... but in short, if you havent done it before and you do not have the tools... best to have another shop do it. Cheaper in the end

AND

The Clutch is the primary link that transfers power to the track... This needs to be "spot-on" and correct.

Being so far away (Norway?)... it is a bit difficult to find a good service center I'm sure.
 
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It`s a shop near by me who does only mod work on Polaris,they have done alot of drag racing chassies and wc triples work so i have thought about letting them do it..but ofcourse i want to learn it good to work with clutches.
 
You are in the right place then....Read up Rons write-up and lots of the other articles on the forums here.!!!
 
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