Does anyone know where i can purchase a clutch puller for my switchback assault. Sick of taking it to the dealer to change from high altitude to sea level riding. anything else i'd need for clutch work? probably just rig something up for keeping the spring compressed.
Clutch Puller
- Thread starter herbstpa
- Start date
S
seth25
Well-known member
No need for a clutch puller to change out spring and weights. Just pull the cover bolts and pull off the cover. It will come off with all plastics on. While you have the cover off, go ahead and change the weights while there is no spring pressure holding the clutch closed. Be careful when putting cover back on. Bolts are long enough to grab the clutch without having to push too hard on the cover. Go slow and tighten cover bolts little by little in criss-cross patttern. 30 minute process tops.
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Oregonsledder
Well-known member
Be sure to re-align the X on the cover with the X on the spider.
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xc6rider
Well-known member
You dont need to remove the clutch to just change weights. If that's all your changing...
Otherwise, SLP, EPI, both make good clutch pullers.
SLP also has a tool that holds the primary once its compressed. Just a little clamp. Pry the clutch to its compressed position, slip the tool over and release against it. Then you can rotate the clutch and change all three weights. It's like $7 or something and worth having.
If you do alot of clutching as in changing springs, helix's, weights....
You'll mainly want these three tools.
#1 clutch puller
#2 Team secondary compressor
#3 The tool that holds the primary sheaves compressed.
Two replys while I typed.... Hahaha I'm slow.
Also, be careful with the primary cover bolts. follow the torque specs. It's not fun breaking a bolt off in the primary!
Otherwise, SLP, EPI, both make good clutch pullers.
SLP also has a tool that holds the primary once its compressed. Just a little clamp. Pry the clutch to its compressed position, slip the tool over and release against it. Then you can rotate the clutch and change all three weights. It's like $7 or something and worth having.
If you do alot of clutching as in changing springs, helix's, weights....
You'll mainly want these three tools.
#1 clutch puller
#2 Team secondary compressor
#3 The tool that holds the primary sheaves compressed.
Two replys while I typed.... Hahaha I'm slow.
Also, be careful with the primary cover bolts. follow the torque specs. It's not fun breaking a bolt off in the primary!
Are you changing your primary spring? Get a good clutch kit from Carl's Cycle Sales in Boise Idaho and simply buy an extra set up of weights for your circumstances. My clutches run from 4000 to 8500 effectively without a spring change. I also ride all over the alt range from 2700 up to 10000 by simply changing weights which takes all of five minutes with the primary on the sled in the field. (and allow me to brag here but my PRO flat out RIPS from low to high...all I ever do is tune the weights to run 8000 with my clutch kit)
At home build yourself a little primary weight changing tool kit. You need a couple wedging tools (medium heft screw drivers) to force the spring closed so that it releases the pressure on the weights. A wedge (I use a long socket) to insert to keep the housing open so you can work on the weights...a little magnet to pull and hold in place the weights ...an allen for the pins...a custom cut little wrench to grab the weight pin nut (it's tight as it rests against the clutch housing and if you custom cut a little wrench to fit it works better. (also buy an extra pin and nut to keep in your tools....I normally keep one good new setup holding each extra set of weights as a spare in the case one gets away from you or gets stripped in the field.
Simple fast and effective. A good clutch setup not only gives you premium performance but you don't smoke expensive belts or have to buy aftermarket venting to get a standout sled.
At home build yourself a little primary weight changing tool kit. You need a couple wedging tools (medium heft screw drivers) to force the spring closed so that it releases the pressure on the weights. A wedge (I use a long socket) to insert to keep the housing open so you can work on the weights...a little magnet to pull and hold in place the weights ...an allen for the pins...a custom cut little wrench to grab the weight pin nut (it's tight as it rests against the clutch housing and if you custom cut a little wrench to fit it works better. (also buy an extra pin and nut to keep in your tools....I normally keep one good new setup holding each extra set of weights as a spare in the case one gets away from you or gets stripped in the field.
Simple fast and effective. A good clutch setup not only gives you premium performance but you don't smoke expensive belts or have to buy aftermarket venting to get a standout sled.
what clutch kit did you get? i feel as though every time i go on the sights, be it carls cycle, or slp, or whatever else nothing is ever listed for fitting the 2012's
Lot of good info here. I learn something every time I go on here. We bought a clutch puller years ago so we can remove the clutch for maintenance, cleaning, and inspection. But like others stated if your just changing weights it's a five minute job. Seems to take longer to take the belt, and side panels off and on than it takes to change weights.
I think a puller is around $30-$35?
I think a puller is around $30-$35?
M
milo303
Well-known member
Little tool that may make someone's life a little easier
http://www.jtatv.com/CLUTCH_TOOL_p/ct-100.htm
http://www.jtatv.com/CLUTCH_TOOL_p/ct-100.htm
