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Clutch help 2018 XF8000 HC 153

So a buddy of mine just got a new dealer demo 500km sled. Runs super! But the clutching seems off a bit. We don't know what the dealer had done. They said nothing. Since Ive got a new Alpha1 on the way I'm kinda concerned that the stock set up is different than what I'm used to.
The sled is a 2018 XF8000 High county limited ES 153
The engagement is smooth and around 3800ish rpm. Then it seems to rev to like 5500 before you really feel it starting to pull. Not sure I'm explaining right. On my Viper it engages at 3800rpm and pulls all the way to full throttle. The XF seems to rev just fine but doesn't seem to start really pulling till around 5500rm. Feels like the rpms between 3800 -5000 don't really do much.
Any ideas? or is it just the way the cat clutches are? This is first new cat since his 2007 XF1000
And my first ride on a new Cat
 
my sled moves the second i mash the throttle but i'm on a MC. best arctic cat clutch/setup i've seen. 900 miles and original belt still looks new. :)

suggest you give some more info before anyone can accurately give you answer.

altitude your riding at.
weights that are installed.
whats your max rpm currently.

give those things and someone can probably get you pointed in right direction.
 
From what he was told the clutch is stock. 0-3000ft

The belt does sit kinda high in the secondary but it now being self adjusting. Therese now way to adjust it down a bit.
 
I have the same sled and the clutching to full throttle is great. Mine over revs to 8450 rpm though so i don't hold it wide open on hard pack. Something sounds off on your sled. Just spit balling but could the power valves be gummed up and it's just struggling in that transition range? Once engaged, the power is great all the way through on mine.
 
The new team clutching is very good, however my experience is set up a bit light.

if you are over revving, it's also not surprising you aren't feeling good pull through mid range as it's not shifting as hard as the motor would allow.

I would suggest adding a couple grams weight to the primary weights to shift it harder through out and capitalize on the available horsepower.

I have a mountain cat set up for 3000-6000 ft comes stock with 70 gram weights. I bought Dalton's adjustable 70 gram weights and set it up at 72 grams for my elevation. This added about 5-10 km/hr tracks speed in deep snow. Pulls like a monster.

A good starting point is to add 1 gram of weight for each 100 rmp over rev. you should be targeting 8100 to 8200 max.

That thing should pull your arms off.
 
I drive at sealevel. Have to put more weight on it. Now 77.25g and it takes 8100-8300 rpm...
 
How high up is the belt suppose to sit in the secondary? I'm wondering if the belt is the wrong one.
Right now the nubs and about 1/4" of the belt side is visible. I know the clutches are self adjusting but from what Ive seen on every sled Ive owned before the belt sits just low enough to see the nubs.
Anyone know the correct belt number for this sled?
 
How high up is the belt suppose to sit in the secondary? I'm wondering if the belt is the wrong one.
Right now the nubs and about 1/4" of the belt side is visible. I know the clutches are self adjusting but from what Ive seen on every sled Ive owned before the belt sits just low enough to see the nubs.
Anyone know the correct belt number for this sled?

Any sleds belt should run as tight as physically possible to not drag the sled ahead at idle. The tighter your belt, the lower your starting gear ratio, and the easier it is on your belt at engagement.

The clutches pulls on the side section of the belt below the cord, as long as your not sitting above your cord, you're safe. The cat clutches have the roller bearing on the primary, which is why they are able to run as tight as possible, ie with no deflection stop in the secondary clutch. Even if you are slightly above the cord, it will shift down as soon as you get any real load on it. (with that being said if you are way above, you probably have another issue such as the wrong belt (check your owners manual), or the center to center distance of your clutches is wrong, both of these are easy to check and eliminate)

Ultimately the only thing you are trying to limit with the belt deflection setting is to keep the drag on the primary low enough to minimize heat build up in the belt at idle, and belt wear on the inner cogs.

A point to note, is that as soon as your secondary shifts off of the deflection stop, it no longer affects the shift of the clutches. the tighter you have it, the longer your clutches will stay engaged on a downhill decent before they bottom out and release the belt.

good luck.
 
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