Clutch change

[Jerseyrider]

Need some help with clutching. How can I change the clutching to make it better for trail riding? Can I just change springs and weights or do I need a whole clutch? My son (14 years old) wants to have the badest *** sled when trail riding with his buddies.



His 05 red 900 has

• 144 skid with 1.3 lugs
• Walker piggybacks in the front
• Fox clickers in the skid (have the Walkers just have not had time to put them on)
• 375/47 springs
• Dragon spindles
• fire n ice box
• SLP pipe
• Snostuff can (he likes the sound)
• Radiator delete
• Lots of venting
• Sideskick ice scratchers because he went into reverse on the first two regular ones and destroyed them.

Probably gonna get him the holtz red a-arms and some red skis for Christmas.

Thanks

 

[monster715]

Hey Yone,

You should not need to change the whole clutch itself. Need to get that thing running between 7650 and 7700 rpms. That where she runs peak power.

I am actually running the 11 series weights. 11-76's to be exact for trail riding and a 'pink' spring. I cannot remember what the exact numbers on the spring are. Now if you were to go to 11 series weights from 10 series, you will need to take the clutch apart and shim it accordingly. Typically there is about a 0.020" shim that needs to be added when going to 11 series weights.

Whatever weights you stick with, try to get the clutch shimmed as tight to that belt as possible. Typcially about a 0.003" clearance is what you want to target if I recall.

Once you get that dialed in - just give the clutch itself a good 'once over'. Bushings are good, clean the sheaves with a scotch brite pad, and possibly consider having it balanced by IndyDan.