Hey guys, well, it looks like I screwed up this time. When I took off the secondary on my 2008 800 dragon, I forgot to count the washers behind the clutch, and I put them on the bolt with the others. Is there an easy way of checking clutch alignment without the special tool? Thanks in advance.
Clutch alignment washers?
- Thread starter TheBCSledder
- Start date
Can you determine if any washer is any more dirtier than the other? This method might tell you in which order they go, based on their location...
From my experience usually the "washers" that sit behind the clutch are actually called shims and they are a wider ID and affect how much the clutch can travel inboard. The washers that ride on the bolt itself control how much the clutch is allowed to travel outboard. Does that make any sense? My best suggestion is to find a clutch tool and start over and get it spot on. Look at it this way- you've probably never aligned your clutches as they sit... RIGHT? So why not invest the 50% cost of a belt and buy a clutch tool?? It May save you hundreds in the end.
From my experience usually the "washers" that sit behind the clutch are actually called shims and they are a wider ID and affect how much the clutch can travel inboard. The washers that ride on the bolt itself control how much the clutch is allowed to travel outboard. Does that make any sense? My best suggestion is to find a clutch tool and start over and get it spot on. Look at it this way- you've probably never aligned your clutches as they sit... RIGHT? So why not invest the 50% cost of a belt and buy a clutch tool?? It May save you hundreds in the end.
Thanks I'll have a closer look tomorrow.
I guess the days are long gone when you laid a flat bar (which was long enough to bridge the clutches) across the backside of the secondary sheaves, pushed the secondary in towards the center of the sled and measured offset to the backside of the primary sheaves. It was always 5/8". The manuals now talk about using an alignment tool as mentioned above but I wonder how much things have really changed.
I just checked the offset on our 2010 RMK sleds and the above still holds true. If all you are worried about is the spacers required for proper offset you could use this method.
Sorry, I guess I didn't look closely enough. the big spacers are on the jackshaft still. I thought the small washers on the bolt had to do with alignment. Thanks for the help anyway.
hey guys one more question: I took off the secondary, and I forgot: should there be an aluminium "cylinder" type thing as well as the washers on the bolt? With it on there is a heck of a lot of free play, and without it, with the bolt torqued, the fender washer gets bent. wth? please someone help. thanks.
Yes, that "cylinder thing" goes on the bolt. Put the washers on the bolt first and then put the spacer on (put the biggest washer next to the bolt head). To look at the parts diagram go to http://www.polaris.com/en-us/snowmobiles/Pages/Home.aspx and look up your sled in the parts manuals under "For Riders" dropdown. You should have about .030" of free play. If you have more then add some washers on the bolt.
Wouldn't I subtract washers? Thanks for the help.
I think you add them to reduce the free play.
Edit: You would add the smaller diameter washers.
Edit: You would add the smaller diameter washers.
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but adding washers would make the bolt effectively longer? Thanks for the help anyway I'll see how it turns out tomorrow
Yeah, you might be right. Just give it a trial and let me know.
On the bold, with the newer lightweight (narrower) secondaries, use 3/4" as an APPROXIMATE measurement if you don't have the alignment bar
After you've set the offset, (approx 3/4" ON THE BACK SIDE) when you tighten the secondary bolt, you want approx .030" of free play, meaning you want to be able to move the secondary back and forth .
thanks
Well, I finally got the clearance right. I think it was taken apart before and someone didn't set it correctly. I took off a couple washers from the bolt and added some thin ones until I got it perfect! Thanks again for the help.
