Clutch alignment on a different plane

[minus40]

Looking for some methods that you guys use for aligning clutches to each other on the vertical plane. Having a hard time figuring a solid reliable way to do it.
So far I use some keystock on the back of the drive clutch and the same or a square on the jack shaft then tilt one down to hit the other but then I am getting off the plane I want to check.

Am thinking of one of those laser levels might be good.

 

[winter brew]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. There is engine "twist" or "clocking", and then there is left/right shimming of the secondary or left/right movement of the engine. Or are you locating a jackshaft in a custom???

 

[minus40]

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. There is engine "twist" or "clocking", and then there is left/right shimming of the secondary or left/right movement of the engine. Or are you locating a jackshaft in a custom???

Ya I wondered if I was clear on what I was trying to do.
Think of what the clutch alignment would do if you lifted the mag end of the engine up and pivoted on the pto mounts.

It's a custom engine install in an edge chassis

 

[winter brew]

Are you locating mounts for a plate? Or using the stock mounts and straps? If stock, I have just bolted it up and lived with the results...and no alignment issues.
If you are locating mounts, then the level isn't a bad idea, get the jackshaft level and then a good digital level on the head can get you almost perfect.
As for clocking a straight edge between the secondary sheaves, extending past the primary sheaves and mearure for about 1/16" of clockwise offset at the edge of the primary sheaves....of course this will depend on how solid your mounting is, if using hard mounts and torque arms, then litle or zero "twist" is needed IMO. Sometimes you just have to get creative with the tools you have.

 

[minus40]

Are you locating mounts for a plate? Or using the stock mounts and straps? If stock, I have just bolted it up and lived with the results...and no alignment issues.
If you are locating mounts, then the level isn't a bad idea, get the jackshaft level and then a good digital level on the head can get you almost perfect.
As for clocking a straight edge between the secondary sheaves, extending past the primary sheaves and mearure for about 1/16" of clockwise offset at the edge of the primary sheaves....of course this will depend on how solid your mounting is, if using hard mounts and torque arms, then litle or zero "twist" is needed IMO. Sometimes you just have to get creative with the tools you have.

I have Brads engine plate and a triple. Had it running since last Jan but had it set up with about 1\16th or a little more of "twist". I blew a belt last year and didn't like that too much. I figured the plate, hard mounts and a torque arm hold the engine so am going to take the twist out and run it straight. Of course this messes up the C to C so I have to do a little fine tuning on the engine placement.
While I'm at it I want to be sure on this other alignment factor like I mentioned.

Thanks for the idea, I think I'll use an extra case with the laser on it

 

[BB454]

Clutch alignment

The twins have shims under the case, you could use one of those if you need to adjust. I would put an offset tool on the primary and instead of pointing it at the secondary, point it straight up. Then put a straight edge on the back of the secondary pointing straight up and see if they are in the same plane.

 

[LRD]

I have used a digital level on top of the sheaves of both clutches to check if they are both on the same level. Real pain to figure from scratch. Many years ago I cut the whole bulkhead off a phazer and stretched it forward 2"'s with chrome moly to drop in a 617 rotax, worked well but way to much work.

Good Luck