Chevy mechanics, question?

[mtn_extreme]

I was having trans fluid running into my transfer case.

T700 r4 tranny to a NH 205 transfer case. Stock T350 adapter between the two.

Dropped the transfer and pulled the adapter off. The two seals seem in good shape. The coupler isn't a floater, has a bearing on the end to center. It seems in good shape. Everything looks GOOD. Only thing I noticed is that there was no gasket (gaskament goop stuff only) between the adapter and transfer case and the two lower bolts holding the adapter yo tranny weren't really very tight. Would this allow enough movement (wobble) between the two as to let fluid past the seals? Poped the seals out anyways and will put new ones in as well as a new o-ring and tc gasket.
Just hate to put it all back together without knowing I fixed a deffinate problem

All input would be appreciated!

MX

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I was having trans fluid running into my transfer case.

T700 r4 tranny to a NH 205 transfer case. Stock T350 adapter between the two.

Dropped the transfer and pulled the adapter off. The two seals seem in good shape. The coupler isn't a floater, has a bearing on the end to center. It seems in good shape. Everything looks GOOD. Only thing I noticed is that there was no gasket (gaskament goop stuff only) between the adapter and transfer case and the two lower bolts holding the adapter yo tranny weren't really very tight. Would this allow enough movement (wobble) between the two as to let fluid past the seals? Poped the seals out anyways and will put new ones in as well as a new o-ring and tc gasket.
Just hate to put it all back together without knowing I fixed a deffinate problem

All input would be appreciated!

MX

pull the coupler off, the lastest couplers used a small o-ring on the inside to seal the shaft..if yours doesnt have one you can use liquid teflon thread sealer on the splines to keep tranny fluid from migrating from the trans to the t-case.....that should stop it....

 

[mtn_extreme]

thanks, I will do that on re-assembly. Wondered what kept fluid from seeping down splines.

MX

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

thanks, I will do that on re-assembly. Wondered what kept fluid from seeping down splines.

MX

that should fix you right up MX, that is the normal leak point vrs the seals.....the coupler should just slip right off the shaft...

 

[mtn_extreme]

that should fix you right up MX, that is the normal leak point vrs the seals.....the coupler should just slip right off the shaft...

Have the coupler out and the seals are out also. Need to get new stuff tomarrow to replace. Any tricks pressing in the new seals?

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Have the coupler out and the seals are out also. Need to get new stuff tomarrow to replace. Any tricks pressing in the new seals?

no tricks other then make sure they go back to back so one controls oil one way and the other controls oil the other way....grease the spring in the back of the seal so it wont pop out when ya tap it in....most likely it is the splines that were leaking..so new o-rings if it has them or just use the thread sealer..should be good to go afterwards..did have one of my race trannies actually pressurise that area because the bushing shifted a little bit..but that took 2100 hp to do ..doubt it would happened on a stocker...

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

MX, check those 4 bolts that bolt the adapter to the back of the tranny often..I have had problems with a good motor(big blocks) torqueing those bolts loose...I normally drill them out and retap to 7/16 bolts..totally solves the problem....if you do that you need to pull the govenor and grease the drill bit and the tap to keep metal out of the tranny..shouldnt be neccasary with a mild small block..or a stock big block unless you drive real hard....

 

[mtn_extreme]

Built 454 bb - not 2100 hp though

The bolts you speak of were loose when I took it apart but the two bottom ones have been drilled out to 7/16 already. The top 2 are still 1/4.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Built 454 bb - not 2100 hp though

The bolts you speak of were loose when I took it apart but the two bottom ones have been drilled out to 7/16 already. The top 2 are still 1/4.

they should have been 3/8...(9/16 wrench)..if so you might want to go ahead and drill and tap the top holes as well..if any of them wont torque down tight(threads stripped) use a helicoil to fix them..but yea a good bigblock is gonna need 7/16 bolts....also does it use the stock frame mnt right at the side of the t-case by the frt driveshaft? if so you might want to remove it..it doesnt allow the t-case to move as much as the motor mnts allow the engine to move and it can cause the bolts to keep coming loose as well as crack the tranny right infront of where the adapter bolts to it....

 

[mtn_extreme]

sorry, your right 9/16 wrench top, 5/8 bottom 2. Yes it uses the stock side mount that attaches to the transfer case. Hate to remove it - it's all chrome and stuff Actually, I have no problem doing that if it is better.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

sorry, your right 9/16 wrench top, 5/8 bottom 2. Yes it uses the stock side mount that attaches to the transfer case. Hate to remove it - it's all chrome and stuff Actually, I have no problem doing that if it is better.

I've run alot of 205's over the years..most trying to live under 500 +hp bigblocks and 44" tires off road...we only run the center 2 mnts under the t-case..really helps alot..the old style body(67 to 72) are even worse because the frame flexs so bad with a big block, as well as trying to keep mtr mounts in them..on my daily driver 70 chevy running 35 " mud ta's with a 659 hp bigblock I had to chain both sides of the motor dowm as well as pull the side t-case mnt....(it would smoke all 4 tires from a dead stop all the way till it shifted into 3rd gear(which it would then shear either the tranny output or the t-case input off(did it 4 weekends in a row street racing back in the late 80's)(if you look at my profile page in album there is a pic of my last race truck that ran a 2100 hp nitrous big block and a very custom hand built turbo 350 with a 205 stood right on end)

 

[mtn_extreme]

Nice! Here's what I'm working on:

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

clean truck...I would pull that side mnt..and chain down the motor on both sides..also watch the frame rails for cracks up around the engine crossmember and for the rivits working loose in all the crossmembers...bigblocks kill old style frames in short order...also ..take life easy on the eaton rear axle....really tough to find parts for them anymore (bearings are the biggest deal since timkin doesnt produce the old barrel bearings anymore, although I did get them to build me new ones for a 1927 huppmobile I restored for a customer..but it took 6 months of talking to them, 6 months for them to build them and they were over a 100.00 a bearing by the time it was all done)..course you can swap a newer axle in..just have to move the spring and shock mnts...

 

[mtn_extreme]

Thanks for the heads up on problem areas, will keep a look out for them. Truck isn't daily driver and is lucky to get 1000 miles a year put on her.

Will leave the side mount off.

Thanks for all your help and if I run into anything else, I will pm you if that's ok?

MX

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Thanks for the heads up on problem areas, will keep a look out for them. Truck isn't daily driver and is lucky to get 1000 miles a year put on her.

Will leave the side mount off.

Thanks for all your help and if I run into anything else, I will pm you if that's ok?

MX

sure thing MX....always willing to help all I can...good luck...makes me miss mine ...lol

 

[wildcard28]

When you tap the seal in with a big socket of something that goes all the way around the outside of the seal kinda like a round anvil , this will keep you from denting the outside of the seat after a few dents it can actually warp the seal and make the rubber out of round causing it to leak too. Good Luck