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Checking ECU

beamslayer

Well-known member
Premium Member
Is their any way to check the ecu.
2011 pro mtntk kit,pa 13-1 head hps can .Bogs out at 6400 + or - rpm,runs rough at 5000 rpm.Checked ev,checked and changed ev solenoid,changed tps and reset to specs ,check fuel filter ,clutches are all been gone thru, new springs,new spark plugs,wire connecters all have dielectric grease, and checked voltage 14+ volts.
If you stab the flipper it falls on its face,try it slow some times it will some times it won't , runs better first thing than just keeps getting worse as the day goes on . Tried ethol plug ,capped ev no change.
From idle to that 6400 range it runs great, if you hold it around that 5000 range it just sounds rough, if you hold it wfo it pulsate.
It has 150 psi and the egt probe has been changed.
Any ideas
 
i have a complete stock sled, i put a skinz can on it will in the shed over the summer cleaned exhaust valves before first ride, and all the tubes and what not, the bellows were fine, and the first ride the thing ripped, next ride started getting that bog you are talking about, it was worse at low elevation just seemed to run slobbery rich. If you pumped the throttle it was worse but if you held steady throttle and increased it slowly you could get full 8300rpms out of it but if you were running midrange and just grab it all, she fell on her face, damn near die untel you let off grab it again and away she goes. Still trouble shooting this one but if i figure something out, ill let you know, and if anyone out there has fixed this let us know!!! buddys is doing the SAME thing both 12's both with 1000-1500 mi.
 
ECM Testing

There is no way to test an ECM. When we suspect an ECM problem we first re-flash them to see if the problem goes away. If not then we replace the ECM and re-flash.

However in this case I am not suspecting an ECM failure. First of all, does the check engine light come on or flash at all? TPS problems can also cause the same symptom. It could have a flat spot in that range. Also a defective throttle cable saftey switch is another possibility. Exaust valves open at about 6000 rpm, I know you inspected them but there may still be an issue such as a plugged breather port, weak spring or bellows issue.

Having your dealer put it on digital wrench would help. Looking for any stored diagnostic codes, looking at the TPS resolution through the full throttle range, and checking the safty circuits.

Hope this helps,

Cheers
 
Thanks guys . I am doing a fuel pressure test today. I have heard of some fuel pump problems lately.
How would I test a throttle safety switch ?
What will a digital wrench tell me ?
 
Fuel pressure

When you test your fuel pressure it should maintain 58-60 psi at all times. Once you shut the machine off it should not drop more than 1psi per minute. If it does you could have a bad pump regulator or leaking injector.

The Digital Wrench diagnostics can show both current and all stored historic codes to help troubleshoot a problem. It has a high resoultion test screen for looking at the TPS and verifying correct calibration and funtion. It has many other real-time diagnostics to aid the techs in troubleshooting.

The throttle safety switch is in the throttle handle. Its purpose is to detect a stuck, or broken throttle cable. Many problems just like yours are caused by impropper free play adjustment, or a bad switch. I have heard of some people taping the switch closed to verify if it is the problem. If the bog goes away, replace the switch.

Hope this helps,

Cheers.
 
Well just got done checking fuel pressure 60 psi all the way thru and it holds it pressure. Did a more crucial observation of the tack this time 7250 to 7300 is where it starts to bog out than surges . Rechecked evs again.
 
Mine was done at the dealer yesterday. Mine stumbles a few times in the mid range. The TPS was out of spec and reset. We test next week.
 
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