Changing weights, tools??

[stem]

I'm changing the primary spring and the weights on my -11 PRMK, but I cant get the 3/8 socket pushed far enough in to grab the nut, it seems to be just to much mass in the way in both the primary and the socket.
Is there a special tool that fits better or am I doing it wrong?

 

[jwentzer]

Open end wrench

I usually use a open end wrench. I also have a small 2 1/2" long 3/8" wrench where the box end fits in there perfectly, if I have it with I prefer it over anything else.

Be careful as you can start to round off the nut. (I'm sure you already know that, not talking down to you in any way) It appears most people tend to get these tighter than they need to be.

 

[Steelman]

All i have to change is weights. I use a open end wrench. I could never find a socket to fit very well.

 

[Pro-8250]

Open end wrench, yes.
Two things here.
Make sure the allen heads are facing the same direction as they did from the factory.
You will see an X on the face of the clutch. That X has to line back up with the X on the spider.

And once you change weights a few times it really is a matter of a few minutes to change out weights once the belt is off. And if you ever get your finger caught in there you will say a few swear words you never heard before.

 

[volcano buster]

I have a special "yard sale" socket that I have clearanced around the end to get into the nut better. There isn't much meat left out towards the end but seems to work fine for this application. I also use an allen head driver bit that you would use in a drill/driver for the bolt head. The one I use is long enough that it gets past the outer diameter of the clutch then slide a 1/4" wrench over the end to spin it. I like it better than a simply allen wrench because you can't turn it very far.

I also have a metal rod slightly smaller in diameter than the pivot bolt. I rounded the end so I can use it to align the weight, then use the pivot bolt to push it out of the way, then thread on the nut. I insert the alignment rod in the opposing side from where the bolt head will sit so it is a quick install this way.

 

[Reg2view]

Electricians wrench, ball hex (optional), works best for me.

 

[stem]

Thanks guys, I'll try to find an open end wrench then

As I took off the lid and pulled the spring I noticed that one of the weights was loose, the nut looks like it had screwed itself out a few windings, enough so that the weight had the chance to "dance" around a bit.
I don't know if this is a factory fault or if the nut has in fact winded itself up on it's own, but has any of you guys encountered this problem before?

 

[Steelman]

I have not had any trouble with the weight bolt moving. I would think a guy could put a little drop of lock tight on it for safety. Just don't use red. What's everyone else think?

 

[Rockpicker]

I use a 6 point socket with one side ground out and a hex bit on my stubby 3/8" ratchet.

 

[jwentzer]

Thanks guys, I'll try to find an open end wrench then

As I took off the lid and pulled the spring I noticed that one of the weights was loose, the nut looks like it had screwed itself out a few windings, enough so that the weight had the chance to "dance" around a bit.
I don't know if this is a factory fault or if the nut has in fact winded itself up on it's own, but has any of you guys encountered this problem before?

Describe "dance" a little more for us. The weight should pivot "up and down" freely, with very little resistance. Is "dance" left and right movement?

 

[stem]

The bolt itself has approx 0.07 to 0.11 inc movement sideways, and if I take around the weight I could move it in a "screwing" motion almost as much the bolt.
I'm heading out now to try and get if off the sled, had to borrow a 3/8 open wrench (when the hell are you guys converting to metric??)
I'll be back with a report soon...

 

[Scott]

Also...get one of these:

 

[stem]

Okay, here's what I discovered:
From the top; I had taken off the lid and removed the spring, so the weights was un-tensioned. Two of the weights moved freely up and down with none or little play sideways, the third rattled sideways. The same goes for the third bolt, it rattled sideways(NOT up/down)
After taking out weights 1-2 I noticed a gray matter consisting of alloy and belt dust sitting in the seat of the weight, I cleaned this away with brake cleaner and I gave the weights a good rinse too.
Upon assembly I noticed that nr 1 and 2 became as loose as nr 3 was in the first place...
This leads me to a new theory: Weights 1+2 was stuck and could not move as they should, nr 3 was OK and should be left alone.
I replaced the nut and bolt on all three and they move the same now, but I placed a o-ring on the bolt's nut side to prevent it from rattling sideways.

Scott: What's that?

 

[Scott]

That's for keeping the sheaves tight so you can change your weights out in the field when your cover and primary spring are still installed.

Works a lot better than having a buddy stand there holding a fat screwdriver against the sheaves while you work.

 

[volcano buster]

Keep an eye inside the clutch where the sides of the weights sling. You can get these Comet washers to shim up the gap and protect the aluminum. Sorry, I don't have any good pics.

You can replace the bushings in the weights too.

http://www.wps-inc.com/catalogs/snow#Task=NEXT&CICID=SM&PRVCID=SM&PAGE=952&Rnd=5106888677840748

 

[Pro-8250]

Do not use loctite. It's not a Arctic Cat.

 

[LoudHandle]

Also...get one of these:

I personally don't like that tool, I previously used the "U" shaped clip on the clutch bolt which does not side load the clutch. But here is another alternative that I learned last year from a forum member. (It still exerts some side load to the movable sheave but it is at a beefier point on the clutch, closer to the center line).

You can do the same thing with one of the weights you are changing to. Pry the clutch open, insert the tip of one of the new weights, flat side to the spider and opposite flat side to the movable sheave, right next to one of the weights (I find the horizontal one the easiest, weight sits on the shelf created by the tower) and it will hold the clutch open far enough to get all three weights out and the two new ones in. Pry and trade weights out and install the last one. Pry one more time and your done. If you carry an extra weight or more than two sets you only have to pry it twice. If you want something lighter; a small 3/8" x 3/8" x 2" piece of hardwood dowel / plastic or whatever works as well.

This may not be worded the best but you should be able to make sense of it while looking it over in the garage with a beverage. : )

 

[Sunvang]

I personally don't like that tool, I previously used the "U" shaped clip on the clutch bolt which does not side load the clutch. But here is another alternative that I learned last year from a forum member. (It still exerts some side load to the movable sheave but it is at a beefier point on the clutch, closer to the center line).

You can do the same thing with one of the weights you are changing to. Pry the clutch open, insert the tip of one of the new weights, flat side to the spider and opposite flat side to the movable sheave, right next to one of the weights (I find the horizontal one the easiest, weight sits on the shelf created by the tower) and it will hold the clutch open far enough to get all three weights out and the two new ones in. Pry and trade weights out and install the last one. Pry one more time and your done. If you carry an extra weight or more than two sets you only have to pry it twice. If you want something lighter; a small 3/8" x 3/8" x 2" piece of hardwood dowel / plastic or whatever works as well.

This may not be worded the best but you should be able to make sense of it while looking it over in the garage with a beverage. : )

Possible to get a picture of that method? English is not my forst language, and it's kinda har to understand what you are describing.

 

[Sunvang]

Open end wrench, yes.
Two things here.
Make sure the allen heads are facing the same direction as they did from the factory.
You will see an X on the face of the clutch. That X has to line back up with the X on the spider.

And once you change weights a few times it really is a matter of a few minutes to change out weights once the belt is off. And if you ever get your finger caught in there you will say a few swear words you never heard before.

May I ask why this is so important? Is because of balance in the clutch?

 

[LoudHandle]

Possible to get a picture of that method? English is not my forst language, and it's kinda har to understand what you are describing.

I haven't figured out how to post pics yet. I can email or text them to someone to post?

As for your other question, yes it is due to the factory balances them as a unit with the X's in line. So unless you have it rebalanced as individual parts you need to maintain this alignment.