Changing clutch weights

[Super Sled]

My question is about changing the clutch weights. How in the f&$@ does a guy remove the three size 4 hex bolts from the clutch that hold the clutch arms on? They have these crazy nuts on the other end that are in there so tight that I cant get a wrench in there and onto the nut. Then if i can get it, I also can't get the nut loose at all, even with heat. It's just crazy. What's everyone else do? I need to get heavier clutch weights in there because I keep hitting the rev limiter. I'm even close to just removing my primary and bringing it in to the dealer I'm so perplexed.

Thx all!

Mike aka SS

 

[wellfed777]

i always put a 3/8 open end on the nut you can just fit it and losen the other end with an allen i've had them be tight but they always give
a long allen socket would work also i think
good luck

 

[Oregonsledder]

If you are talking about the weight pins (bolts), with a lock nut on one end and an allen wrench head on the other end then...you just need to grind down one side of a box end wrench so it will fit on the nut and then remove the nut. They come off easy once you get the wrench on the nut. You certainly don't need heat??

 

[die hard poo]

Ya I just use a 3/8" open end wrench and then use a 1/8" allen "T" handle to loosen. Spin the allen head and just use the open end wrench to hold the nut, no heat needed. And remember, righty tighty, lefty loosy lol Oh and make sure you have the primary clutch spring removed or have the clutch compressed before removal of the weights.

 

[Pro-8250]

Ya I just use a 3/8" open end wrench and then use a 1/8" allen "T" handle to loosen. Spin the allen head and just use the open end wrench to hold the nut, no heat needed. And remember, righty tighty, lefty loosy lol Oh and make sure you have the primary clutch spring removed or have the clutch compressed before removal of the weights.

What he said. You do have the belt off and the clutch compressed right?
With the clutch compressed it take about 5-6 minutes to change the weights. Put the bolt and nut back in facing the same direction before removal. Do not use lock tite or any lubricant either.

 

[polarisIQmn]

I've always taken a needle nose vice grip and clamped it onto the bolt on the end and spun the allen wrench side.

Chad

 

[Reg2view]

Gotta have the pressure off the hex bolts I would think by removing the belt and closing the sliding half, or removing the cover and spring. Although, I've never tried to turn the bolts with spring pressure on. If pressure is off, there should be no problem spinning the bolt out of the nut.

 

[Leftys]

I took a 3/8 drive 3/8" deep socket and ground the end down to a taper to fit in there on the nut. This way I do not have a chance of rounding the nut flats with an open end wrench. I have been using the same socket for years. Special tool part # "mod socket". I have not found a Polaris clutch it will not work on yet including ATV's and SBS's.

 

[Super Sled]

Check, check, and check. Thank you everyone for your replies. I have not been out to the garage since posting this. I have the clutch off though and spring, etc removed. I'm going to try to grind down an open end wrench for fitament. Mine are on there really, really tight and want to strip out. But hopefully if I can over come the fitament issue it will work out better and I can get the nuts loose without stripping anything.

Hey what's the deal with those wierd looking nuts with the falange looking things coming out anyways? Do they do anything?

Thx guys.

 

[Rick!]

Check, check, and check. Thank you everyone for your replies. I have not been out to the garage since posting this. I have the clutch off though and spring, etc removed. I'm going to try to grind down an open end wrench for fitament. Mine are on there really, really tight and want to strip out. But hopefully if I can over come the fitament issue it will work out better and I can get the nuts loose without stripping anything.

Hey what's the deal with those wierd looking nuts with the falange looking things coming out anyways? Do they do anything?

Thx guys.

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2836941&postcount=12

"Search "clutch" + "Rick!" "

Find a cheap 3/8 or a Snap On 3/8.

 

[Leftys]

They are called a Flexloc nut. They work very well to keep from loosening in high vibration areas.

 

[Luke45]

You don't need to do any grinding... just turn the alan until your open end fits onto the nut, then just loosen with the alan wrench...

 

[Reg2view]

They are called a Flexloc nut. They work very well to keep from loosening in high vibration areas.

X2. Doo uses nylocs for their clickers. Different application, same vibration issue. Flexloc are lighter and smaller.

 

[Super Sled]

This has been one comedy of errors after another.... So after going to sears and picking up a miniature 3/8 inch wrench and a 1/8 Allen T wrench, I went to work. Like I said, i had previously removed the entire primary clutch and the cover, spring, etc.

So as I get going I discover what happened--my dealer had red loc-tited the special nuts onto the bolts. When unpicked up the sled my first ride was out in Wyoming so I had them install 10-60 weights before I picked it up. They must have used a dab of loc-tite. Doh!

Well long story is I have two 10-60's removed and 10-68's successfully installed in their place. Bad news is the last 1/8 Allen bolt stripped. Then to boot, about 1 mm or so from the tip of my extractor broke off in yhere while I was trying to remove the bolt that way..... Dang....

Any ideas?

Should I drill it out? Use s larger extractor (I was using a #2 extractor bit)?

What a nightmare.....

 

[roni87]

I think you could get a needle nose visegrip on the allen end and loosen that way.

 

[markis24]

I had to do this about 7-8 years ago on a pin someone prior to me stripped out. I used a dremel with a small cut off wheel and cut it on the nut side. I cut half way through then rotated the pin 180 degrees and cut the other half. You need a steady hand and wrap something around the clutch to keep it clean like a old welding coat or sleeve. I used a small file to de-burr the pin before pulling it through. Good luck, This is what worked best for me although drilling it maybe easier for some people.

 

[Super Sled]

I think you could get a needle nose visegrip on the allen end and loosen that way.

I tried the vice grip approach and wouldn't loosen up. Man this one is on their really tight. Tomorrow I'm going to buy some small dremel cut off wheels and try that. Geeez what a pita....

Thx all

Mike aka SS

 

[die hard poo]

Heat up the nut with a torch and then break it free, the loc tite just needs to be turned back into a liquid. Trust me, the heat trick works great!

 

[Super Sled]

Heat up the nut with a torch and then break it free, the loc tite just needs to be turned back into a liquid. Trust me, the heat trick works great!

I had to heat all three up with a torch. Damn the dealer to he!! For red loc-titing those nuts.

But anyways, today I'm going to procure some small dremel cut off wheels and just cut the last bolt. It's badly stripped. Then I tried to use an extractor and the tip of that broke off. Now I can't e en drill it out any farther, having a carbide extractor bit tip stuck in there. It's just fubared.

Oh well, it'll be easy to cut off with a cut off wheel, then I'll just get a new bolt and flex nut. What screwed this job up so bad was my dealers loc-titing those nuts onto the bolts.....

 

[Reg2view]

What screwed my up so bad was my
dealers loc-titing those nuts onto the bolts.....

Your former dealer. Someone has some 'splain'in to do... A new pin would be a nice start. They were idiots.