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Changing automatic chain tensioner Need help!

As the title says, I am going to change the chain tensioner on my 2012 HCR 800. I have vibration and chain slap in the chain case and after doing some research I found this a very common problem. I have the tensioner ordered and should be here tomorrow. Does anyone have any tips for this job? Do I have to completely remove the oil tank to access the chain case cover? Any insight from someone that has done this before would be very helpful.
Thanks guys!
 
Pretty easy job to do. Remove the muffler, remove the seat, remove the gas tank plastic cover so you have room, unscrew the belly pan from the running board behind the oil tank so you can pull it away from the oil tank to make room. Keep the oil line connected and oil in the oil tank. Unscrew the oil tank from the chain case and then set it off to the side where the muffler would go. You may need to move it out of the way further to drill a hole for the new tensioner. The manual tensioner is simply setting in there just pull it out. Wipe the excess fluid out of the case and then follow the install instructions for installing the new tensioner. You shouldn't have to remove the chain, but if you do have to, just take the top gear off with a 10mm and remove the top gear and chain leaving the bottom gear, then reassemble in the reverse order when finished and refill the chain case.
 
Are you just replacing the the auto tensioner or doing away with it and going to a manual style?
 
Pretty easy job to do. Remove the muffler, remove the seat, remove the gas tank plastic cover so you have room, unscrew the belly pan from the running board behind the oil tank so you can pull it away from the oil tank to make room. Keep the oil line connected and oil in the oil tank. Unscrew the oil tank from the chain case and then set it off to the side where the muffler would go. You may need to move it out of the way further to drill a hole for the new tensioner. The manual tensioner is simply setting in there just pull it out. Wipe the excess fluid out of the case and then follow the install instructions for installing the new tensioner. You shouldn't have to remove the chain, but if you do have to, just take the top gear off with a 10mm and remove the top gear and chain leaving the bottom gear, then reassemble in the reverse order when finished and refill the chain case.

That's pretty much it.
I forget the torque spec for the chaincase bolts, but google that and don't gorilla wrench them in when you put it back together. Some guys have stripped the screws/cracked the case. Those bolts aren't meant to be torqued in very hard. Pretty sure it's 12 lb-ft. Not very much.
 
I found it nice to lay the sled on its side when doing the job. Shim it up where need be, like something under the end of the handle bars and whatever else necessary so the sled was basically level while on its side. This makes things fairly easy to see and you dont spill even a drop of oil cause it all stays pooldd in the case. Also keep an eye you are unbolting the chain case and not pulling bolts outta the 2 stroke oil reservoir, it can sorta happen fairly easy. Other than that just pay attention, its not to bad. Have a few extentions and maybe a u joint for your #30 torx bit. Dont think i used a u joint but i seem to remember one or two bolts that were sorta tricky to get to.
 
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