Chaincase Synthetic oil - What's best? Weight?
- Thread starter Joemt
- Start date
S
SledHed75
New member
Use ATF, i think pretty much everyone uses it and it works realy well, and is also cheap
H
hilinerider
Well-known member
i have been using mobil 1 synthetic gear lube in all my sleds, good success, no wear
my 02
my 02
F
freak58trio
Member
Napa 10-30 wt in my 2 sleds no problems .
S
SledHed75
New member
I find myself needing to add lube every ride, so does my brother. Maybe we both have bad seals cuz sometimes it leaves puddles on the groundI use the Polaris synth chaincase oil. The chaincase uses so little, there isn't much money to save by going with ATF. It's not a consumable like 2 stroke oil is
I use the Polaris synth chaincase oil. The chaincase uses so little, there isn't much money to save by going with ATF. It's not a consumable like 2 stroke oil is
For me it is not the savings ... I figure ATF fluid is used in most 4x4 transfer cases with a chain gear setup very similar to our sled application with RPMS like our transfer case.
I use the ATF because I see less metal shavings since switched to ATF over gear lube.
Even switched back to gear lube saw more shavings than using ATF.
Then swiched back to ATF with less shavings.
What type of ATF , I went with the most expensive crap I could find MOBIL synthetic ATF at $7.00 a quart. But used $1.29 fluid and saw no difference over 500 miles.
Why do I think this is not used in a sled .... gear oils are less toxic than ATF fluid so EPA likes it in a sled from manufacturer.
Last edited:
G
gtfoxy
Member
I've used Royal Purple, 75w/90 I think it was, and some other synthetics.
Are the recomended chaincase lubricants lower weight like straight 30W? I was wondering what they were.... I have to figure a heavy weight gear lube, especialy in below freezing temps, would rob a bit of power vs a light winter weight engine oil.... Like trying to sling around mud vs water...
ATF, very interesting... a lot of detergents, I bet the inside of the chaincase is spotless.... not too light... weird.... Yes I could see there being no difference in the cheap stuff vs the expensive Synthetics.... no need for the friction modifiers like a transmission does..... clutches and all....
Are the recomended chaincase lubricants lower weight like straight 30W? I was wondering what they were.... I have to figure a heavy weight gear lube, especialy in below freezing temps, would rob a bit of power vs a light winter weight engine oil.... Like trying to sling around mud vs water...
ATF, very interesting... a lot of detergents, I bet the inside of the chaincase is spotless.... not too light... weird.... Yes I could see there being no difference in the cheap stuff vs the expensive Synthetics.... no need for the friction modifiers like a transmission does..... clutches and all....
I think manufacturer recs 75w/90 .
Riding in California this weekend at the same place the temps change so much the transmission fluid really makes a difference.
Friday 50 degrees and 7 feet of slush
Saturday 26 degrees and some snow
Sunday 15 degrees icy with 6 inches of snail on top.
today ... Monday 8 feet of snow with the temp of 44F
S
sdsmith
New member
chaincase oil
I use redline synthetic gear lube. not sure of the weight or if they even give one a choice. no complaints. I did notice quite a bit of shaving when I pulled the polaris oil out?? Will be keeping an eye on the redline.
supposedly redline coats the metal parts and stays attached. This appealed to me for summer storage.
I use redline synthetic gear lube. not sure of the weight or if they even give one a choice. no complaints. I did notice quite a bit of shaving when I pulled the polaris oil out?? Will be keeping an eye on the redline.
supposedly redline coats the metal parts and stays attached. This appealed to me for summer storage.
O
Old-n-Slow
New member
Fyi
Just by the way of info here are some stats... Most all gear oils are at least 50w lubes. 80/90 is not the weight it is just the way it is classed, Gear oils use a different rating system. ATF is about the same weight as the chain case oils at close to a 7 w however it lacks the ep ratings to protect in the same maner. Now I have no idea if you need EP Extream Pressure or not. The metal in the oil with chain oil and not ATF as me at a loss for understanding?
10w-30 or any other multi rated oil is its own confusing problem in that the oil is the lower number always for example 10-30 is 10 weight oil that as be altered to protect at temp the same as a 30 weight oil. It never becomes 30 weight. But then I just sell oil and I am not a engineer. You can buy syn chain case oil from other places but you would have to buy it in large amounts making it a poor chioce and you would never use enough to justify it. It is just my opion that the very best thing you can do is use just what the manufacture recommends. But that is just one persons thoughts.
Just by the way of info here are some stats... Most all gear oils are at least 50w lubes. 80/90 is not the weight it is just the way it is classed, Gear oils use a different rating system. ATF is about the same weight as the chain case oils at close to a 7 w however it lacks the ep ratings to protect in the same maner. Now I have no idea if you need EP Extream Pressure or not. The metal in the oil with chain oil and not ATF as me at a loss for understanding?
10w-30 or any other multi rated oil is its own confusing problem in that the oil is the lower number always for example 10-30 is 10 weight oil that as be altered to protect at temp the same as a 30 weight oil. It never becomes 30 weight. But then I just sell oil and I am not a engineer. You can buy syn chain case oil from other places but you would have to buy it in large amounts making it a poor chioce and you would never use enough to justify it. It is just my opion that the very best thing you can do is use just what the manufacture recommends. But that is just one persons thoughts.
In a simple gear box comprised of 2 gears, 2 bearings, 1 chain, and some type of tensioning device, it's amazing how people can be lead to believe how critical it is to use a particular lubricant...........no offence but with people that have responded to these types of threads having used everthing under the sun including ATF, straight weight engine oils, multigrade engine oils, straight grade auotmotive gear lubes, multigrade automotive gear lubes and so on, it should be a good indicator that you can run pretty much anything in your chaincase as long as its slippery, I'd even be surprised if you couldn't run cooking oil..........LOL
My point is that I can't remember that last time I heard "He took out his chain case because he was runnning that damn XXXXX oil"
Carry on
My point is that I can't remember that last time I heard "He took out his chain case because he was runnning that damn XXXXX oil"
Carry on
J
Joemt
Member
I agree. Speaking for myself, I have just really started to do the work on my own sled. And this I know; it's damn expensive when you screw up. So I ask and basicly decide what I'm going to do. But to all of you willing to share your experiences. Your really helping those willing to learn regardless of why we are learning. A big thank you to all!
S
supercoolguy
New member
whatever is on hand. I had an old summit once that I shattered the inside chaincase early in a season and didn't know it, I rode alot that year with oil in and oil out. It would leak out and I would change it when I figured out it was empty. finally failed after 1500 miles (chain broke). point being I put alot of miles on with little to no lube and it took the whole year to break, since than I use whatever is on hand, usually 75w syn gear lube. no problems.
just use something
just use something
S
simnil
Well-known member
You can use almost anything that is slippery as someone said... I have even used 2-stroke oil when nothing else was available and that worked fine. I normaly use whatever 4-stroke engine oil I have at home, usually normal good quality mineral 10W/40. The most important thing if you ask me is to change the oil often, not how expensive oil you put in. I use to change about every 500km, by then the oil starts to be a bit dirty.
ATF is a hydraulic oil and as such quite dry... probably works just fine but there should be better options
ATF is a hydraulic oil and as such quite dry... probably works just fine but there should be better options
I
ivar
New member
I agree, more important that the oil is clean and the chaincase not full of water, than what brand is used. Dealers around here uses 10W-30 or similar in all sleds, and I've used 10W-30. Now using ATF.
I've heard ppl saying ATF is bad for HYVO chains, but Hyvo chains are used in transfer cases where ATF works just fine.
