F
flatlandsledder
Member
Would this be acceptable to use in the chaincase of a 2003 RMK 700?
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Chaincase oil? SNOWMOBILE SPECIFIC?...ATF?...SYNTH???...WHAT TO USE??
- Thread starter flatlandsledder
- Start date
Polaris Chain is a HYVO chain....Same as used in transfer cases on 4X4... ATF is what is used there...BUT... Those chains are pretty wide and have the load distributed over a wide area.
The chains and gears have a lot of pressure on them...Synthetic chaincase oil like the ones from Polaris, Amsoil, Redline etc would be the best and are not that pricey.... second choice, IMO, full synthetic ATF.
Think of it this way... why experiment with something as crucial as a chain when you are 30 miles deep into steep backcountry bowls?
The chains and gears have a lot of pressure on them...Synthetic chaincase oil like the ones from Polaris, Amsoil, Redline etc would be the best and are not that pricey.... second choice, IMO, full synthetic ATF.
Think of it this way... why experiment with something as crucial as a chain when you are 30 miles deep into steep backcountry bowls?
Go with the ATF Dex (not Type F), works great with the cold weather and does lube the chain, pulls friction heat away and works well with the shaft bearings. Motor oil will foam and air does not lube well. Auto timing chains are free running splash systems and not "in" the oil like your chain on your sled. ATF will not foam (hold air) like motor oil -- if it did, your auto transmission would slip. ATF is cheap and works fine. This is why transfer cases on 4x4's use ATF.
Outbound,
Very good point about foaming and why MOTOR-OIL is not an appropriate lube for the chaincases.
Transfer cases have very wide chains and a lot more teeth engaging that chain.
The load on the chains/gears contact points, per unit area, is much lower on a transfer case than a sled chaincase.... conventional (non-synth) ATF will "work" for sure, but... IMO there will be more wear than with synthetic ATF which has a much higher film-rupture point (the point at which the chain pushes thru the oil film and contacts the gear).
A quart will do a couple of oil-changes... the price is not too high for peace of mind...especially when this is the only link that your motor and brakes have to the track deep in the back country.
Synth lubes also have a lower temp pour point than std ATF's...
Snowmobile specific synthetic chaincase oils are very similar to Synthetic ATF but the snowmobile chaincase oil has a lower temp pour point and some additional additives for extreme pressures.
The chains and gears wear on the sleds with the factory Synthetic oil... just check the drain magnet... they will wear more with NON-synthetic than synthetic in our high hp, high load mountain sleds.
Flat lander (trail) sleds, even high hp ones, do not have the same constant high loads as the mountain machines.
Chaincase oil is generally changed to get rid of wear particles and moisture.
If you don't keep your chain at proper tension, it will wear faster on the gears and chain.
MY 2 cents.
Very good point about foaming and why MOTOR-OIL is not an appropriate lube for the chaincases.
Transfer cases have very wide chains and a lot more teeth engaging that chain.
The load on the chains/gears contact points, per unit area, is much lower on a transfer case than a sled chaincase.... conventional (non-synth) ATF will "work" for sure, but... IMO there will be more wear than with synthetic ATF which has a much higher film-rupture point (the point at which the chain pushes thru the oil film and contacts the gear).
A quart will do a couple of oil-changes... the price is not too high for peace of mind...especially when this is the only link that your motor and brakes have to the track deep in the back country.
Synth lubes also have a lower temp pour point than std ATF's...
Snowmobile specific synthetic chaincase oils are very similar to Synthetic ATF but the snowmobile chaincase oil has a lower temp pour point and some additional additives for extreme pressures.
The chains and gears wear on the sleds with the factory Synthetic oil... just check the drain magnet... they will wear more with NON-synthetic than synthetic in our high hp, high load mountain sleds.
Flat lander (trail) sleds, even high hp ones, do not have the same constant high loads as the mountain machines.
Chaincase oil is generally changed to get rid of wear particles and moisture.
If you don't keep your chain at proper tension, it will wear faster on the gears and chain.
MY 2 cents.
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D
diggerdown
Well-known member
Synthetic ATF...nuff said!
SRXSRULE... I hear ya!! I did that on my 1999 Summit that I could not get to stop leaking...it was a 600 though and did not get much high load use.
IMO...On the modern machines... unless you hit something.. I haven't had leakage problems that would have been cured with higher viscosity oils...
Here is a good post.
IMO...
I really don't believe that we are going to out-think the lubrication engineers on this one.
If you are in a pinch.. on the road or a weekend where you cant get the correct oil... go with some ATF (prefer synth) from the local discount auto... heck even K-Mart/Wallmart/Canadian-Tire sells synth ATF...
Just keep a quart or two on shelf/trailer along with a spare new chaincase gasket..
Keep the chain at the proper tension and monitor it regularly ... that is the best way to prevent problems.
Change it regularly to to get rid of the moisture (condensation) and wear-particles out...
What is your ride time worth to you??
IMO...On the modern machines... unless you hit something.. I haven't had leakage problems that would have been cured with higher viscosity oils...
Here is a good post.
IMO...
I really don't believe that we are going to out-think the lubrication engineers on this one.
If you are in a pinch.. on the road or a weekend where you cant get the correct oil... go with some ATF (prefer synth) from the local discount auto... heck even K-Mart/Wallmart/Canadian-Tire sells synth ATF...
Just keep a quart or two on shelf/trailer along with a spare new chaincase gasket..
Keep the chain at the proper tension and monitor it regularly ... that is the best way to prevent problems.
Change it regularly to to get rid of the moisture (condensation) and wear-particles out...
What is your ride time worth to you??
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im trying out some MTL, its gear oil for motorcycle trannies but is pretty thin considering its stated weight, 85-90 or something like that
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