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chain case oil

Look down the running board at the chain case..

You will see a Plug.. thats the FILL!! idk i think a 6 mm hex.

then if you look from the bottom.. That's the DRAIN!

Clean both Magnets!

Fill with Fluid! Done!
 
My drain plug had a lot of weird goop on it. I cleaned it off, but wondered if it was there to help 'hold and contain' stuff? Or maybe it wasn't suppose to be there at all..

My chain case fluid looked horrible, sludgey, chunkey, watery..
Change it every season, minimum.

The fill method is very stupid on these, I used a hose that just fit inside the fill hole, and tried pouring the fluid through the hose...it was a mess. Then when it does get full the hose had fluid backed up into it so that got dumped all over the belly pan too.
I miss the Doo chaincase of the Rev era...easy to check (dip stick) and easy to add too (funnel fits in there).

But yah yeah, I'm sure the Pro is a few ounces lighter due to their design..somtimes an extra few ounces is worth the simplicity Polaris.
 
what i prefer to do is just pull the cover. then i can check chain tension while changing the oil.

drain oil
put sled on side
remove 2 17mm break caliper bolts
remove 1 17mm break rotor bolt
remove 5 10mm cover bolts

it's actually easier to do than it sounds. and no big deal since it is rarely done more than once a year.

pv
 
My drain plug had a lot of weird goop on it. I cleaned it off, but wondered if it was there to help 'hold and contain' stuff? Or maybe it wasn't suppose to be there at all..

My chain case fluid looked horrible, sludgey, chunkey, watery..
Change it every season, minimum.

The fill method is very stupid on these, I used a hose that just fit inside the fill hole, and tried pouring the fluid through the hose...it was a mess. Then when it does get full the hose had fluid backed up into it so that got dumped all over the belly pan too.
I miss the Doo chaincase of the Rev era...easy to check (dip stick) and easy to add too (funnel fits in there).

But yah yeah, I'm sure the Pro is a few ounces lighter due to their design..somtimes an extra few ounces is worth the simplicity Polaris.


That "goop" is not suppose to be there it's sludge crap that builds up on the magnet. I changed mine on my 12 at 500 miles and couldn't believe how bad it looked from now on I think this will be done every 300 miles.
 
what i prefer to do is just pull the cover. then i can check chain tension while changing the oil.

drain oil
put sled on side
remove 2 17mm break caliper bolts
remove 1 17mm break rotor bolt
remove 5 10mm cover bolts

it's actually easier to do than it sounds. and no big deal since it is rarely done more than once a year.

pv
Times 2.
 
rotax

thats why i asked how much i didn't want a mess

i removed drain plug and then the fill plug (clean both plugs )
i then remove jackshaft bult (while you can still use brake:face-icon-small-win) then remove caliper bults then caliper(set aside) and brake rotor
then get the collar behind the rotor (takes some pulling i used a channel locks and carfully pull ) once out get the Oring out of the groove in shaft
now remove chain case bults and cover
reverse and fill with oil (9 oz)
i used a funnel with a long tube and set the funnel in the pull start handle so it can drain in slow (beats holding it )

oh while your in there check out the chain and gear condition and reset chain tention wipe out any old oil under bottom gear and cover
 
Top gear fastener is actually the bolt holding the brake disk, bearing, gear etc. all thogether. 40 ft-lbs. There's a wave washer and float washer(s) right beneath the head of the fastener. Don't loose them and also don't forget how many were on there when you reassemeble. Seems like common sense stuff to me so, sorry if I sound preachey.

Lower gear fastener is inside the chain case and is 29 ft-lbs.

if you're into it that far, you might as well know the brake caliper fasteners are also 40 ft-lbs when you go to reattach that back to the bracket.
 
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