What happened to the rectifier drawing mountain horse?
Not sure... it seems to be back up and I didn't do anything.
maybe a glitch in the system??
PM me if you cant see it after refreshing (reloading) the page.
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CAUTION: Read this if powering ANY electrical accessories on your PRO.
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
Not sure... it seems to be back up and I didn't do anything.
maybe a glitch in the system??
PM me if you cant see it after refreshing (reloading) the page.
.
NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.
Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.
I stick to my comments in the first post.
I've received a few PM's that said that the image is not showing up.
Lets try this one.
Mating connector for "ACC PWR" at clutch guard bundle... TYCO #1-480305-0
Mouser #
Pins for connector (order a couple of extras)
TYCO # 60620-1
Mouser
Bridge Rectifier
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/GBPC3506-E4-51/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS%2fMRt2%2f0z7BctjwDV6a42HMg%3d
Capacitor
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier/CGS572U050R3C/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YUNjjiC3kA6Gg6i%2fOk%2fNHnE%3d
Nice fuse blocks (look around the site... they have lots of good wiring stuff... vinyl tube to protect wires, connectors etc)
http://www.cycleterminal.com/fuse-boxes.html
These are also a nice clean fuse block on Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291076954623
NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.
Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.
I stick to my comments in the first post.
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.
Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.
I stick to my comments in the first post.
I've received a few PM's that said that the image is not showing up.
Lets try this one.
Mating connector for "ACC PWR" at clutch guard bundle... TYCO #1-480305-0
Mouser #
Pins for connector (order a couple of extras)
TYCO # 60620-1
Mouser
Bridge Rectifier
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/GBPC3506-E4-51/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS%2fMRt2%2f0z7BctjwDV6a42HMg%3d
Capacitor
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cornell-Dubilier/CGS572U050R3C/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMukHu%252bjC5l7YUNjjiC3kA6Gg6i%2fOk%2fNHnE%3d
Nice fuse blocks (look around the site... they have lots of good wiring stuff... vinyl tube to protect wires, connectors etc)
http://www.cycleterminal.com/fuse-boxes.html
These are also a nice clean fuse block on Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291076954623
NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.
Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.
I stick to my comments in the first post.
Last edited:
Yep....bad idea.
MTNTK DOES offer a plug/play rectifier for this... which is a good idea.
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MTNTK DOES offer a plug/play rectifier for this... which is a good idea.
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If you buy a factory accessory from Polaris, where do they tell you to plug it in?
They plug it in in the same place I plug mine into.
https://www.mtntkperformance.com/accessories/acdc-rectifier
IF you are running more accessories than ONLY the blowhole... I highly recommend that you run this system outlined above. With a full wave rectifier, capacitor and fuses.. ESPECIALLY if you are putting a motor load in the same place you are tapping into for the AFR and control box.
I made it pretty easy in the post above to "click and order" for the members... All you need are some basic wiring skills to pull it off.
If you are just running the blow hole... put a fuse on the (+) side.
Regardless of what is said by mfgs of aftermarket products... I belive VERY strongly that you should never use the "DC PWR" connector, which is ONLY for ECU testing, to power up ANY electrical devices.
Good luck.
https://www.mtntkperformance.com/accessories/acdc-rectifier
IF you are running more accessories than ONLY the blowhole... I highly recommend that you run this system outlined above. With a full wave rectifier, capacitor and fuses.. ESPECIALLY if you are putting a motor load in the same place you are tapping into for the AFR and control box.
I made it pretty easy in the post above to "click and order" for the members... All you need are some basic wiring skills to pull it off.
If you are just running the blow hole... put a fuse on the (+) side.
Regardless of what is said by mfgs of aftermarket products... I belive VERY strongly that you should never use the "DC PWR" connector, which is ONLY for ECU testing, to power up ANY electrical devices.
Good luck.
Polaris does not have any electrical accessories besides the ones that plug into the 2amp max fused outlet that draws from the ECU power supply.
A Visor outlet and a 12v outlet.
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A Visor outlet and a 12v outlet.
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J
jerrydecoy
Well-known member
I've looked over this thread but I apologize if this question has already been answered. My dobeck box is wired into the fused dc acc supply where it should be but my oil pump is wired into the unfused dc power supply. Since they both pull from the same source could I just add a 2 amp inline fuse to the oil pump side of that connector and leave it wired the way it is?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
You really shouldn't do this on a Pro. Yes it can be done but it isn't a good way. You are robbing power from the ECM to power these items and there just isn't enough power to properly run these items off the DC side.
The best way to do this would be to do it the Eric has outlined and run your DC items off of the AC side with a rectifier.
If you don't want to purchase the items Eric has shown, then a simple way would be to purchase the AC/DC rectifier from MTNTK for $19.95. This will allow you to plug into the AC side of the sleds and then use the DC output of this rectifier for your oil pump and other items.
NOTE:
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.
Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.
I stick to my comments in the first post.
NOVEMBER 14, 2014
This setup may not provide correct voltage as pointed out by 429dhm.
Until more info can be found... I do NOT recommend that this full wave/capacitor setup be used.
I stick to my comments in the first post.
Here is what I put up on the other thread in the "PRO RIDE" section.
429... you bring up a good point. (bottom most drawings/info)
Wondering about "Peak" VS "AVG" DC output voltage??
Finding something like a LM7912 Linear VR BUT with higher amp capacity OR a zener may be needed to bring it down in voltage... and be simple.
Or maybe a simple 10-20amp "buck converter"
Like this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301391726562
With an input range of 9-35vdc and output current capacity of 20amp
Small size, 3"x3"x1.25"
This in conjunction with the Full-wave rectifier and capacitor would give you a very stable, near-pure 12V DC supply.
PONDERING THIS:
Too tired to ponder/study tonight.
http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/diode/diode_6.html
???
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Last edited:
M
MacDawg productions
Well-known member
Not sure where my post just went to, but I built the rectifier and cap set up outlined over a month ago. What can happen if used? Turbo oil pump afr and boost gauges. Stock headlight being used still. Haven't fired up sled yet.
MD... Dave should be able to give some good readings on the MTNTK unit... that will read differently than a FWR with Capacitor most likely.
I don't have a running machine at my disposal right now to take readings unfortunately.
(and wont for at least a week)
The system that you have MAY or not give you the right voltage level... even though it will be "Clean DC".
Here is the dwg for the system with a DC/DC converter that will regulate the output voltage to a very steady, clean 12V DC that will run all of your accessories very well.
.
.
I don't have a running machine at my disposal right now to take readings unfortunately.
(and wont for at least a week)The system that you have MAY or not give you the right voltage level... even though it will be "Clean DC".
Here is the dwg for the system with a DC/DC converter that will regulate the output voltage to a very steady, clean 12V DC that will run all of your accessories very well.
"buck converter"
Like this one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301391726562
With an input range of 9-35vdc and output current capacity of 20amp
Small size, 3"x3"x1.25"
This in conjunction with the Full-wave rectifier and capacitor would give you a very stable, near-pure 12V DC supply.
.
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