carb issues i think?

[switchback0410]

so on the past few rides on my 04 switchback 700 my sled is really boggy on bottom end like its overfueling, ive cleaned carbs, replaced needle and seats, floats, and ran higher octane fuel and isopropal in it, but still does it, it seems like i adjust the idle screw enough to clear it up for the day but then by the next ride its doing the same thing, and opinions would be great

 

[Hardass]

A chipped reed will do that so check those. and i know you say boggy but some times there is a little peice of junk stuck in the pilot circut and this will make you real boggy feeling on the bottom.

 

[joshkoltes]

similar

Having similar symptoms with my liberty 800. On the bottom I can't pinch the throttle fast or it will fade out and die and when I let off before it dies it backfires? I can set my idle up above 2700 and it wont do this. I have some unlabeled brand of single pipe set(y pipe. Pipe. And can) and an Slp air box. My carbs had many missing parts in the cam arm linkage in the top that i replaced but it still does it. The previous owner was running ams oil so the valves were allmost cemented in with carbon. Valves have a yellow spring. Cleaned the valves and no change. Noticed I have different needles than are listed in the parts micro finche 9djn06-57 I think not stock but still in the second slot from.the top. From the missing parts and someone running it the pto side carb slide is visibly worn, could that cause the condition?
Did a plug check with 340 mains and the air screw at 1 3/4 out could only get just under 8000 rpm at 8000 ft. Plugs looked mysteryously grey

 

[boxster7614]

You need to adjust your air and fuel screws. This will adjust from Idle to about 1/4 throttle. Your idle screw only adjusts your throttle cable and opens the slides up a bit. On your 04 you should have and air screw: this is a little screw on the side of the carburetor towards the front (air box side) and before the slides. This will meter how much air is let into your idle circuit. Turning the screw in will close off air and richen the mixture. You also have a fuel screw: this is the white plastic looking knob on the side of the carb, this is on the engine side after the slides. If you turn this screw in you adjust how much fuel goes into the carb. Turning this screw in will cut off fuel and lean out the mixture. How you adjust these carbs is; the air screw is the coarse adjustment and the fuel screw is the fine adjustment. A good starting point is 2.5 turns out and then see how she runs. Most likely you probably just need to fine tune your fuel screw. If it is too lean or too rich you will stumble off idle. Sometimes you have to feather the bottom end up and once the motor gets up to 3-4000 RMP it will take off and run good. Sometimes your idle will be too high and not come back down, this is usually because the idle circuit is too lean. Always turn 1/4 to 1/2 a turn ride it and adjust again. Like I said get it as close as you can with the air screw and then dial it in with the fuel screw.

 

[joshkoltes]

seal

mine is a bad pto seal i think. doing the either around the seal at idle it comes up a bit so great i guess i bought a lemon

 

[boxster7614]

I had a 2003 700 that some "mechanic" did that on it and said my seal was bad, I tore down the whole engine and replaced all the seals. The engine did the same thing after all that work. Took it to tri-city polaris and they charged me $90 to dial in the carbs, it ran great after that. I felt like I wasted my time replacing the seals. I think the carb cleaner or either maybe just gets sucked in the air box......not really sure just know it didn't fix my problem. After that I started studying and figured out how to adjust the carbs myself. I wouldn't give up on the carbs just yet. However another thing you can check is a bad stator can also cause the sled to sputer and run crapy.