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Cannot get RPM's

DenverR1

Well-known member
Premium Member
I've got an 18 850 146. I use it as my spring sled, and also let my friends and family ride it when I'm on my turbo. The reason I mention that is because I don't know if my RPM problem has been there since I bought it new or not, because the "other riders" are not really paying attention to it like I would.

I bought this sled last spring. I've always had a little trouble getting my stock sleds to hold max RPM, probably because I'm 250 and I ride a lot above 12K. This 850 seemed to hold 7700 pretty well in clicker 5. Good enough for spring riding.

This season my brother rode it, and I intermittently did as well, but much lower altitude at around 7-9K. I also put an MBRP can on it. It seemed to hold RPM's pretty good at that altitude, still at clicker 5. I also have the mountain pivots in the ramps.

Now it's spring. I can't get this thing to hold past 7400 RPM. Every once in a while it will hit 7700, but then right back down to 7400, even when on flat or down hill. During the season the outer spyder shifted on it due to not being compressed on hard enough during production. I was in a pinch, so the dealer took the spyder off my turbo sled and put it on this one. I've even shaved the pivots even shorter to see if that loss of weight would help at all. I've cleaned everything, but still 7300-7400.

Is there a chance it's this MBRP can? I never rode the sled at high altitude with the can on until now. I'm going to put the stocker back on, but I'm thinking that won't make that drastic of a difference. Any other ideas? Is there more that got damaged than the outer sheath/spyder? These P-drives look relatively simple, or at least easy to diagnose if there was something else wrong.

I'm not a clutch guru by any means so any help would be appreciated!
 
Put the stock can back on it and give it a try.
Also make sure the belt deflection is set correctly, I run the belt as high as I can in the secondary clutch without making the sled creep forward.
 
Did put a new 571 on last time out and also changed the deflection to where the belt groove is at the same height as the outer outer edge the secondary. Didn't make a difference. Heading up Thursday with the stock can. Hopefully that's it!
 
Spring snow, warmer temps, heavier rider....not surprising. Might just need to drop some weight if everything else seems normal....from the flyweights that is. Next firmer secondary spring will also help hold RPM.
 
Spring snow, warmer temps, heavier rider....not surprising. Might just need to drop some weight if everything else seems normal....from the flyweights that is. Next firmer secondary spring will also help hold RPM.

like winter said...

heres the specific changes...

DOO lw pivot bolt is 13 grams 417224220- use this for anything above 10,000'
stock medium pivot bolt is 15 grams

DOO QRS spring 417127137- use this all the time

-BJ
 
like winter said...

heres the specific changes...

DOO lw pivot bolt is 13 grams 417224220- use this for anything above 10,000'
stock medium pivot bolt is 15 grams

DOO QRS spring 417127137- use this all the time

-BJ

I'm probably under that weight on the pivot bolts because I shaved them down. I'll try the QRS spring. Thanks!
 
Not sure about that one. Looks like the high altitude models call for a secondary spring with blue/blue and I can't see any blue dots on my spring. So it might have a flatlander kit on it.
 
I just ordered the secondary spring that Big John recommends. How difficult is it to change these out on the 850's? Will I need a special clutch tool?
 
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