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can you rebuild stator

thanks guys. well first i only had 7.5 volts coming out of the regulator, then i did the ohm test on the stator and for both the yellow to yellow i read 0 ohms, orange to orange i got .4 ohms, green to white/green i got 193ohms, and white to white/red i got 192, and for the ground i got .9. i did replace the regulator and got no change, so i figure the stator is the problem right?
IMAG0069.jpg
 
thanks guys. well first i only had 7.5 volts coming out of the regulator, then i did the ohm test on the stator and for both the yellow to yellow i read 0 ohms, orange to orange i got .4 ohms, green to white/green i got 193ohms, and white to white/red i got 192, and for the ground i got .9. i did replace the regulator and got no change, so i figure the stator is the problem right?




Maybe. The 0 ohms for the yellow test and the 0.9 ohms at ground is interesting. Did you try placing one lead on a yellow and the other lead at chassis ground? and then test the other yellow wire and ground? This will verify you don't have a short to ground. I would try this with each yellow and the other same color wires that need to be tested. You want to see zero/open etc.

What/where were you leads attached to when you got 0.9 ohms for ground?

What kind of meter are you using?

Th
 
Do I understand that on both sets of yellow connectors that you have zero or open ohms?
 
Ya on the two yellow to yellow I read 0 ohms, not open. I measure it with a Klein meter from so its a decent meter. For the ground I measured the black one from the stator to where all the grounds come together where the bumper bolts up. I tested between each one and ground and it read open, except for the black one which read the .9 and that one is the engine ground
 
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Ya on the two yellow to yellow I read 0 ohms, not open. I measure it with a Klein meter from so its a decent meter. For the ground I measured the black one from the stator to where all the grounds come together where the bumper bolts up. I tested between each one and ground and it read open, except for the black one which read the .9 and that one is the engine ground



Definately sounds like something's up there. I just tested a 2012 800 CFI-DC2 and both sets of yellow wires show 0.2 ohms. You could also test the A/C voltage going into the A/C rectifier. The specs for it are on the next page in your service manual.

Does the sled still start and run? Do the headlights work? Which wires out of the regulator did you get the 7 volts?
 
rewind stator

stator corp in menden massachesetts used then many time great work and will rewind for extra voltage if you need it
 
ok so for the ac regulator i got 7vac from red/green. and 10vac from the yellow. and out of the regulator i got 8vdc from the red, from the staqtor i got 7vdc from both the yellow and the orange. the sled starts up and runs normal. i dont have headlights. but the lights on the egt gauges are really dim and it wont produce any pressure for the oil pump for the turbo, unless im at full throttle then the oil pump and gauges will work. thanks for the help
 
I would perform a few more tests, just to verify.

Check grounds in different locations. Place the one lead at the main chassis ground location and then place the other lead in as many different locations (ground areas) as possible. You don't want to see any DC voltage at any of these locations. 0.1 volts is max and anything more shows something is shorting to ground.

The other thing I would test would be to disconnect different electrical items one at a time while checking output voltage. Say for example the fuel pump (or any other electrical part) was going out and started drawing to much current, this can cause the overall voltage to drop. However, it does sound like 2 of the legs of the stator are crapping out, it's still a good practice (proper way) to check for shorts to ground and bypassing electrical items to verify a suspect part.

You can use a seperate source of 12 volts outside of the sled (like a battery) to run things like a fuel pump when you disconnect it from the sleds own system.
 
well im somewhat convinced that its the fuel pump now, ha. i isolated the fuel pump and hooked it up to a battery, fired it up and i was finally getting the 14vdc out of the regulator. its still got me thinking its not the pump though. i took it out today and it ran like normal 6000rpm and above but below that the turbo oil pump egt were having the low voltage issues. since the fuel pumps easier to get to thats what im goin with, ha. thanks again guys
 
There have been a couple of reports of fuel pumps drawing too much current which can drag down system voltage. I would perform a current test on the pump and see what it's drawing for amps.
 
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