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C3 Wiring Harness on a 2018 YZ450F

Looking for anyone who might have installed a C3 Wiring Harness Relay on a 2018 YZ450F (US).

They don't come with instructions and the only thing that pops online at their site is "instructions pending" and "use the diagnostic port". I can't find a clear reference for that plug on my bike and definitely don't find any connections that it looks like the plugs on this harness will work with.

If someone had some experience with this or even a photo, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,
Ken
 
Goes inbetween the plug where you wifi module is. Left side behind number plate. 2019 yz450fx. Tried adding a photo but i get a error message right now

Your light will stay on for however long the wifi module has power so around 2 minutes after bike is off. Guess its good if you stall doesnt leave you in the dark.
 
The way I powered my light on my 2018 YZ is as follows. There is a 3 wire plug just below the battery with 3 wires, I think they are all brown, its likely taped up with electrical tape. When you hit the starter switch one of them comes to life. That wire will stay powered for 1 minute if the bike is not running or as long as the WIFI is active or the bike is running. I tapped into that wire as found with a meter ie. hit the switch, check for power, watch it go off in 1 minute.
The light itself is wired through a relay directly to the battery and the brown wire you tapped into is used as the signal wire to trip the relay. Your headlight will shut itself off in one minute. Costs about 5 bucks all in. On the 10-17 YZ there is power on the diagnostic port which you can use for a headlight but the 2018+ YZ diagnostic port does not have power that I am aware of. I tried it as that's how my 2011 is set up. The 10-17 diagnostic port has 3 wires +12v, ground and data.

M5
 
The hint about connected in line to the wifi tuner was the key. (Left side of bike behind side plastic and back off battery for those that haven't explored...)

In looking closer at it, there is a yellow wire that comes out that would likely allow a guy to use the connector referenced by M5- above, but since the harness was plug and play as is, i just attached as designed.
 
I put the C3 harness on a 2018 and had no issues. the plugs were beside the battery just like above post ☝️, then two leads to the battery terminals, and the light lead to the front of the bike. I fit the relay box nicely in a space by the battery as well.
 
The way I powered my light on my 2018 YZ is as follows. There is a 3 wire plug just below the battery with 3 wires, I think they are all brown, its likely taped up with electrical tape. When you hit the starter switch one of them comes to life. That wire will stay powered for 1 minute if the bike is not running or as long as the WIFI is active or the bike is running. I tapped into that wire as found with a meter ie. hit the switch, check for power, watch it go off in 1 minute.
The light itself is wired through a relay directly to the battery and the brown wire you tapped into is used as the signal wire to trip the relay. Your headlight will shut itself off in one minute. Costs about 5 bucks all in. On the 10-17 YZ there is power on the diagnostic port which you can use for a headlight but the 2018+ YZ diagnostic port does not have power that I am aware of. I tried it as that's how my 2011 is set up. The 10-17 diagnostic port has 3 wires +12v, ground and data.

M5
Bring an old post back from the dead...what relay did you use in your DIY harness?
 
Don't remember for certain, but just a basic 4 or 5 pin 1187.

M5
Thanks for the reply. Did you use a switch or just run the headlight on all the time? I'm thinking I'll run a switch.
 
Thanks for the reply. Did you use a switch or just run the headlight on all the time? I'm thinking I'll run a switch.
Most bikes don't have a ton of spare stator output so for what it's worth we tend to also run a switch. That way, for whatever reason (i.e. electrical issue or adding other devices that draw extra power) if you find your bike to be struggling to keep charge, you can just flip the switch to turn the light off and conserve some power until you can sort out the issue. You could also just unplug the light but a switch is cheap and a bit more convenient.
 
Most bikes don't have a ton of spare stator output so for what it's worth we tend to also run a switch. That way, for whatever reason (i.e. electrical issue or adding other devices that draw extra power) if you find your bike to be struggling to keep charge, you can just flip the switch to turn the light off and conserve some power until you can sort out the issue. You could also just unplug the light but a switch is cheap and a bit more convenient.
Are you using a basic toggle switch or a handlebar mounted switch?
 
Is it necessary to wire the switch back to the signal wire that runs the relay, so that not all the juice is running through the switch? I'm going to run a 30 watt light bar, so I suppose the switch can handle the current and I can just break the circuit at the light.

I'm going to try this switch:

Handlebar switch
 
Short answer is yes, you want to trigger the relay, it is built to take the current which at 30 Watts isn't a whole lot lot but still that's the proper set up.

M5
 
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