Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

C3 Install questions

ditch1000

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Just about to install my syncro drive on my 2012 Pro and have a couple questions...

1. Whats the torque specs on the bolts for the top and bottom sprockets???
2. On the bottom sprocket, which way does the cone on the center hub go??? Toward the inside of the chaincase or facing outwards???

Thanks,

Ditch
 
C3

1. I can't remember torque spec sorry.
2. Cone facing out; 1/4" stainless washer first resting against flat end of gear.
 
Yes, but it does not say which way the sheaves go on. And they are not the same on both sides.
 
Just got my c3 kit for the 2010 assault. Ditch your kit must be different for the pro, I didn't get a cone spacer.. Just 2 stainless spacers top/bottom
My top gear is wrong... Waiting for replacement. Did you get those torque specs?
 
The specs are 40ft/lbs for the top gear and caliper bolts, 29ft/lbs for the lower gear.

For the gear, I'm not really sure what you mean by cone? The gear face is flat but offset, there is no other way it can fit with the spacer on the case side of it. The shallow side goes towards the case, with the deeper dish on the outside - this pushed the gear out.

Is this the question? Does this pic help?


D3FEF092-A291-4A02-A9D4-EB514F5AB650-24660-000013A8C3F9CF42.jpg
 
The specs are 40ft/lbs for the top gear and caliper bolts, 29ft/lbs for the lower gear.

For the gear, I'm not really sure what you mean by cone? The gear face is flat but offset, there is no other way it can fit with the spacer on the case side of it. The shallow side goes towards the case, with the deeper dish on the outside - this pushed the gear out.

Is this the question? Does this pic help?


D3FEF092-A291-4A02-A9D4-EB514F5AB650-24660-000013A8C3F9CF42.jpg

Did u have to use shims behind ur top bearing on jack shaft?
Also did u have to shim ur brake caliper out to fit over rotor?
My buddies top bearing is .070- .130 out. From lip on shaft.
And caliper is about 3/16" in from where it nds to be.

20121029_201748.jpg
 
Did u have to use shims behind ur top bearing on jack shaft?
Also did u have to shim ur brake caliper out to fit over rotor?
My buddies top bearing is .070- .130 out. From lip on shaft.
And caliper is about 3/16" in from where it nds to be.

Yes there is the spacer approx 1/4'' that is behind the gear against the bearing, and two more 1/4'' spacers between the gear and inverted brake disc, then the larger spacer with the beveled end against the disc, and finally the top bolt.

C3 also gives you the two longer bolts and spacers to use with pushing the caliper out like you show, it went together fine.
 
Last edited:
The Dragon kit is simple, just the 1/4 spacer behind top and bottom gear and the original bolt and nut. Cant wait to try it out!
 
Just got my c3 kit for the 2010 assault. Ditch your kit must be different for the pro, I didn't get a cone spacer.. Just 2 stainless spacers top/bottom
My top gear is wrong... Waiting for replacement. Did you get those torque specs?

I did not get a cone spacer either. Once i started installing it, I figured out that the sheaves could only fit 1 way. I guessed at 40 lbs for torque on the sheaves and cranked the brake caliper as tight as I could.
I tried it out last night in a local park and it seems to pull hard!!!
 
Last edited:
We have to put shims behind the chain case!
The bearing housing was not machined deep enough. So the bearing is roughly 0.100 farther away from the secondary clutch. When u tighten the top bolt on the jack shaft it pulls the shaft and secondary over 0.100! To prevent pulling the jack shaft over to seat against the bearing we have to shim it.
Also the new kit has only 2, 1/4" spacers. One for the top sprocket and one for the bottom sprocket.
 
We have to put shims behind the chain case!
The bearing housing was not machined deep enough. So the bearing is roughly 0.100 farther away from the secondary clutch. When u tighten the top bolt on the jack shaft it pulls the shaft and secondary over 0.100! To prevent pulling the jack shaft over to seat against the bearing we have to shim it.
Also the new kit has only 2, 1/4" spacers. One for the top sprocket and one for the bottom sprocket.


Summ8rmk, the kit we are using also has the AVID extended chaincase inner for the drop n roll (these other guys are probably just using the stock chaincase). The problems that we are experiencing is due to the inconsistency of the AVID chaincase. Apparantly this is not the first time according to Kevin at C3. Easily fixed with some shimming. I took one of the large shims for the secondary clutch and slipped it over the splines of the jackshaft before inserting the shaft into the bearing. This leaves the clutch side bearing in perfect alignment (NOT being pulled over towards the chaincase). I will then cut down the 3/4" spacer the same amount. No problem. As far as the caliper goes, I will get some NEW brake pads and shim out the caliper (or make new one piece shims) accordingly to just clear the outer brake pad on the rotor.
None of this should be a problem with the stock chaincase, but probably should be checked to make sure nothing is put in a bind.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top