BURNT UP STATOR CONNECTOR, CAUSES AND SOLUTIONS??

[d8grandpa]

Have my engine out on my 16 to redo the top end and this is how i found my mag connector when i went to pull it apart to lift motor.
Showed it to the Polaris tech at my dealer and he thinks its caused by corrosion in the plug causing arcing across the contacts.

 

[mountainhorse]

I think your tech is correct.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/250-connectors.html#SC250

I think these match the factory connectors if you want to replace them.

It would be nice to find tinned terminals for these yazaki stator connectors.

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[LoudHandle]

I think your tech is correct.

http://www.cycleterminal.com/250-connectors.html#SC250

I think these match the factory connectors if you want to replace them.

It would be nice to find tinned terminals for these yazaki stator connectors.

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Here you go.

https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=153

If you scroll down to the bottom of the linked page. All the connectors are available in tin plated as a alternate connector. Now we just have to chase down the relays in tin plated as well.

 

[mountainhorse]

The photo shows brass... with alternate part numbers in raw brass and tin plated...

Are you sure those terminals are tin plate??

Here you go.

https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=153

If you scroll down to the bottom of the linked page. All the connectors are available in tin plated as a alternate connector. Now we just have to chase down the relays in tin plated as well.

 

[LoudHandle]

The photo shows brass... with alternate part numbers in raw brass and tin plated...

Are you sure those terminals are tin plate??

I have not ordered them, I don't own an complete AXYS yet. But it gives you the tin plated part number in parentheses. Should be easy enough to google the desired part number and track them down.

 

[mountainhorse]

Cant find them outside of Alibaba... no mouser stock, Waytec or other specialty houses I've seen yet...

Maybe someone here has a source.

Joe at Cycle Terminal said that a TE brand terminal should be avail to fit... but no time here to research it.

Easy enough to tin a connector of that size though...

For the Stator connector that d8grandpa posted on the last page... I'd only go with the factory-type Yazaki connector to keep things simple.








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[d8grandpa]

I think I am just going to go with a 4 pin trailer plug. Not perfect but should do the job. At least this plug will seal up and take the moisture better.

 

[mountainhorse]

Those plugs don't seal at all D8.



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[mountainhorse]

Plus, they are fairly low amperage and most have 18 ga wire.

 

[SRXSRULE]

I strongly suggest not using that trailer connector. Its very easy to find 56 series delphi 4 pin connectors and terminals, even tin plated. Ebay or amazon will have what you need. Just get the male and female connectors and terminals and swap out both sides.

If you dont have the correct crimping tool then crimp them the best you can and solder them.

What ever connector you end up using.... apply a thin coating of di-electric grease to the terminals.

 

[mountainhorse]

If you are going to change it... upgrade it!!

If you are going to change out the connector...go with a superior one... one that is sealed and durable with great terminals.

This stator/mag connection, as you know.... runs the ENTIRE sled. The connector fails... so does your sled.

Here's my pick... Maybe someone can chime in with a better solution (links, description, cost, photo would be appreciated)


Go with the Metripack 630 connectors....rated to 46 amps per leg... use the 2 way connectors... and stagger the male/female sides so that you can't connect it wrong. (4 way connectors are not available in the 630-series)

Cheap on Cycle terminal and other sources for 'kits' (connector, terminal w/seals)
http://www.cycleterminal.com/metri-pack.html

About $6 per 2-way male/female kit.

Get a couple of extra terminals when you order.. just in case you crimp wrong (they only cost about 50¢ each extra.

Be careful with your crimp... and add a touch of solder to it for extra measure.... and a dab of dielectric grease like SRX Suggests.

This will be a lifetime connection.

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[SRXSRULE]

There is 2 ways to approach this.

The factory connector that burnt is not sealed, it allows water in and also allows water to get out. This connector is fine in this application as long as its sized correctly, and has a good connection between terminals.

The other way is doing a weatherpack connector. This is going to try and keep the water/moisture out all of the time. The problem is that in this application its very wet, has huge temperature swings and lots of vibration. That makes it difficult for that weatherpack seal to keep the water out all the time. The problem starts once water has gotten into the connector and now it cant drain out and dry.

Im sure this is becoming way more information then you were looking for

 

[d8grandpa]

Going with a 2 way would work, i have the proper crimping tool. That’s the problem with that good connector is finding a 4way.
What i was going to do with the trailer plug is coat the joint with liquid tape once it is connected. I would thing it would be completely sealed then. The only time it really has to come apart is removing the engine.
I will look into the 2 way plugs tho.
Thanks

 

[mountainhorse]

The MP-630 is a great connector for this app... and far superior to the factory Yazaki in terms of water exclusion, vibration and amperage capacity.







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[LoudHandle]

I personally would NOT use di-electric grease on the pins (as it is NOT conductive). The only place it should be used is the rubber bellows seal. IMO

If I were to make my own harness none of the cheap junk stock connectors would be used.

 

[mountainhorse]

I personally would NOT use di-electric grease on the pins (as it is NOT conductive). The only place it should be used is the rubber bellows seal. IMO.

Zactly !
The terminals are tinned plated.









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[diamonddave]

I love Polaris sleds but my God....when are they going to get into the 21st century with electrical?????

 

[Teth-Air]

BURNT/MELTED STATOR CONNECTORS

I changed my motor mounts and no improvement. The motor just does not sound happy anymore and idle is down. Looking deeper I have found 2 things. Idle voltage from the TPS was now at .99 volts were it used to be at .94 secondly here is what I found in the cloth bag above the motor. Still need to go for another ride to see if it is fixed.

 

[Murph]

I changed my motor mounts and no improvement. The motor just does not sound happy anymore and idle is down. Looking deeper I have found 2 things. Idle voltage from the TPS was now at .99 volts were it used to be at .94 secondly here is what I found in the cloth bag above the motor. Still need to go for another ride to see if it is fixed.

Unfortunately, I’ve seen the yellow yellow wires melt together in a LOT of the Axys that I own and work on. It’s a 14.5 VDC circuit that supplies power to

load shed relay coil/PWR
Battery charge relay
Head lights
Hand/thumb warmer
Passenger warmers (if equipped)

Between the headlights being low draw LEDs and the circuit having the capacity to power passenger warmers— I think the voltage regulator might struggle to keep up and that plug melts— OR...

Or it COULD be the blade and spade connection in there is slightly loose and is arcing causing heat and the plug melting...

I still haven’t found a definitive cause yet.

 

[900polman]

Murph, do you think running an accessory of that power source like a blow hole would help use up some power/ heat to keep that connection cool? Is it possible to tap in to that system without hurting any components?