Budget minded weight loss

[SoDakCat]

So this year I decided it was time to step up to a new sled. I went and got a holdover 2010 M8 153 because the ol M7 was going to need some work so I decided it was tme for something new.

Now I know these are fairly light sleds to start with and was wondering where to looks next for the best dollar return in weight loss after the usual stuff like a can. So far my plan is to go with a skinz or hps can, gut the under side of the hood, remover the back set of idler wheels and maybe do some type of intake kit or filter mount to the stock air box and remove the under hood ducting and add some venting.

So after that, where is the next best bang for the buck weight loss that wont start effecting reliability?

 

[DusterB]

The best weight loss for ANY SLED (and cheapest) is to get up around 6am and go for a run. Skip the nightly feeding frenzy and when it comes time to go ride you'll be amazed how much lighter the sled is THEN take all that $ you'd spend on aftermarket whatnot that MIGHT save you 10 lbs and put into makin POWER! I think there is a mathematical formula ( for every 1lb loss it costs $100 ) for this. Don't get me wrong not trying to be a smart azz but I did this last year and it was the best mod i ever did.

 

[batgirl]

underhood insulation... garbage.

lights... add venting & get a lead dog light that looks where you want to.

wheels, unless you ride trail a lot, they're disposable. We run the BDX inner idler kit & nothing else & get 1000 mi+ to a set of hifax.

footwell boards (Fastlane, Cutler, better boards...) pretty cheap & eliminate running weight while improving how the sled deals with deep snow


Normally I'd say can, but it doesn't sound like there are many that work terribly well on the 2010.

 

[winter brew]

A mesh hood drops alot of weight, and is functional....and keeps the stock hood looking like new

 

[SoDakCat]

thanks for the replies

well Im already working on covering the body weight part. Right now im 6'3" and 195 and looking to get to under 185 by sledding season.

Ive heard mixed reports on mesh or aftermarket hoods for the M's if they really do loose much weigh compared to a gutted one. If I do ditch the light Im replacing it wiht PITA lights and making the stock one a vent. Too many night rides around home to go without and dont want to have to worry about a dead battery for a light when its -15 out.

Boards were also on my list as possible things. Ive seeen stock boards get torn apart from rocks like rossie odonald going through a can of tuna.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

unless you run on ice, ditch the snow flap the PC throws plenty of snow. I'm iffy about can's and intakes as the 2010 could loose power and become very finicky to tune. I think there is plenty to loose with a light weight hood, but would try to keep the intake as stock as possible in fear of messing with the fuel map.

 

[tatorsalad]

I second the mesh hood they work great go with the diamond s with the in take in it. It is awsome and save alot of wieght also saves the stock hood.

 

[backcountryislife]

I think you mesh hood guys missed the "budget" part of that post!!!

If you're going to spend that kind of $$, there are lots of other places to take weight off!

 

[SoDakCat]

well Im not afraid of spending like $500 for a hood but it has to drop some real weight compared to a gutted stock hood with vents. Im thinking of running a mounted 4inch filter to the stock air box up front and have heard good results from this before.

Where Im thinking budget is that Im not going to be spending money on stuff like a Ti bolt kit in search of taking off the last ounces possible. I was thinking of in the neighbor hood of like $1500 or less to have more left over for gas and maybe another trip.

 

[Woody67]

can and intake on 2010 M8

While we did not get a ton of miles on our demos last year we had great performance and weight loss (20+ lbs) running lightweight skinz cans and BD-X intakes on our 2010 M8s. Our sleds as well as our customer sleds I am familiar with did not have any performance or runnability issues with these mods.

 

[mikew5945]

The best weight loss for ANY SLED (and cheapest) is to get up around 6am and go for a run. Skip the nightly feeding frenzy and when it comes time to go ride you'll be amazed how much lighter the sled is THEN take all that $ you'd spend on aftermarket whatnot that MIGHT save you 10 lbs and put into makin POWER! I think there is a mathematical formula ( for every 1lb loss it costs $100 ) for this. Don't get me wrong not trying to be a smart azz but I did this last year and it was the best mod i ever did.

While I agree with the reason for getting in shape I disagree with the rider weight loss being that much of a factor. The rider at any weight has mobile weight. It can be moved to many positions on the sled. Sled weight is a fixed weight and must be counter balanced for diffrent conditions. Getting your butt in shape gets it off the seat and helps sled performance. If this is not true then why are guys, who are heaver out climbing most girls?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

While we did not get a ton of miles on our demos last year we had great performance and weight loss (20+ lbs) running lightweight skinz cans and BD-X intakes on our 2010 M8s. Our sleds as well as our customer sleds I am familiar with did not have any performance or runnability issues with these mods.

What elevation of riding,

 

[backcountryislife]

While we did not get a ton of miles on our demos last year we had great performance and weight loss (20+ lbs) running lightweight skinz cans and BD-X intakes on our 2010 M8s. Our sleds as well as our customer sleds I am familiar with did not have any performance or runnability issues with these mods.

At high altitude we saw the exact opposite. I'm a big fan of the BDX, but on my buddy's sled, it was a loser. So was the can.

If you're willing to spend money, A arms, skid arms, DDlite, brake rotor...

You can also ceramic coat the stock pipe & remove the cover, not much weight loss, but it works well.

Mesh hood compared to a gutted stocker... only a couple lbs weight loss. People always compare a fully loaded hood to an empty mesh hood.

Yeah, I did TI bolts... never again!!!! such a waste of time & money!!!!

 

[SoDakCat]

I have looked into the skid arms. I seem to remember a guy talking about getting his stock skid clost to the weight of a timbersled skid with taking out the boggey wheels and using bdx parts in the rear.

Is there much difference in weight between the bdx light drive and the regular on a 2010 and using the light gear sets and just put new bearings in.

Coating the stock pipe has also crossed my mind but more as a way of keeping the pipe from rusting out as fast. The 2 or so pounds it save would just be a plus on top of that. I would run a SLP pipe set but beings Im at low alt I would have to run a box and I dont want to have to mess with that. I do too much of that already with my quad I have and my old twin pipe setup on the M7 and I want a mostly pull and go reliable sled this time around.

 

[samiams2]

the can was a loser......

At high altitude we saw the exact opposite. I'm a big fan of the BDX, but on my buddy's sled, it was a loser. So was the can.

Just curious, which can(s) specifically did you guys try.

I am picking up my 2010 m8 in a couple weeks and I am getting a skinz super-q w/ it along w/ stock can.

Trying to gather as much info as possible since its gonna be months before it snows around here.

thx in advance backcountry.

Samiam

 

[colorado_matt]

For functional weight loss and deep snow performance, I went with the bdx intake and speedwerx tunnel dump muffler. I do have to run a fuel control box. Having help from a very knowledgable tuner for initial setup and advice made this a very beneficial upgrade. Personally, I don't think anyone that rides powder should use anything other than a tunnel dump muffler on an M. Also, it's pleasantly quiet.