I'm looking at ordering a 7x31 trailer. I see one of the options is bubble foil insulation. The cost is roughly 1,100 for them to do the ceiling and walls. I don't plan on ever using the trailer to sleep in. I would probably run propane to either work in it or have a beer at the end of the day. I'm guessing 2 hours max at a time. I like the idea of insulating it right from the manufacturer, but is 1,100 to high and would it really be worth it? Any issues with condensation and doors freezing shut?
Bubble Foil Trailer Insulation
- Thread starter F7arcticcat
- Start date
All of my trailers have been insulated, and it makes a big difference while the furnace is blowing. Once the heat is OFF, they still cool down MIGHTY FAST as the walls are all just WAY TO THIN to have any decent insulation factor in them.
my interior is finished with just plastic panel that's designed like cardboard, no actual insulation. Ive been running an electric milk house heater off a power inverter until I fix my generator. it actually does pretty good even in the cold. best part, no propane fumes. I had a ventless propane furnace in it long ago and it nearly killed me.
If time didn't matter use foam board friction fit it (table saw cuts it perfectly and easy) then line trailer and will be nicer than cheap bubble stuff and more solid if get little nicks and bumps on trailer skin cus friends or family
If the interior Is unfinished do it yourself with a foam board or Styrofoam
Cars today use Styrofoam
You could even bubble wrap it but may degrade over time.
Coat the underneath with rust prevent paint like an alkaline with zinc. Then coat with elastromeric paint for insulation and rock barrier. Pool paint or top of trailer paint.
Then seal it up.
Cars today use Styrofoam
You could even bubble wrap it but may degrade over time.
Coat the underneath with rust prevent paint like an alkaline with zinc. Then coat with elastromeric paint for insulation and rock barrier. Pool paint or top of trailer paint.
Then seal it up.
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I'm not familiar with the auto industry using Styrofoam (a blue extruded closed-cell product by Dow provided primarily in sheets). The auto and rec vehicle industry uses Expanded PolyStyrene (EPS), a expanded closed cell foam ("white bead board") that is very common, both custom molded (like you're helmet), bumpers, etc. and sheets/blocks cut to size in roofs, floors, walls.
If doing this yourself, use foil laminated, and I'd use an extruded or isocyanurate. They will be more durable than EPS, better R-value per inch, and more expensive. Foil to the inside. You may still end up with a vapor barrier issue and get moisture inside with the aluminum skin. Of course, you get inside moisture with no insulation and just aluminum skin if your dew point is high enough. My lessons from doing trailers myself, and working in the closed-cell foam insulation manufacturing industry.
If doing this yourself, use foil laminated, and I'd use an extruded or isocyanurate. They will be more durable than EPS, better R-value per inch, and more expensive. Foil to the inside. You may still end up with a vapor barrier issue and get moisture inside with the aluminum skin. Of course, you get inside moisture with no insulation and just aluminum skin if your dew point is high enough. My lessons from doing trailers myself, and working in the closed-cell foam insulation manufacturing industry.
1100 bucks for the bubble foil is flat robbery..for the little bit of insulating it'll do! ...you can buy the good purple 4x8 sheets by 1 inch thick at your home store and do it yourself if your walls an ceiling are screwed on. ...probably less than 200 bucks..
