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broke crank

dktraw

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
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well broke the crank yesterday. made a couple pulls on a pretty decent hill, let the belt cool at the bottom, and then thought i would make one more pass. got half way up the hill and crack! Broke the pto end off right behind the clutch. 06 900, clutch balanced by carls cycle, torque arm, push arm, venting, and only 1500 miles. gonna start the tear down tonight and see the damages.

the wifes 755 towed it out good though. LOL
 
so i am looking at the updated oem crank kit. Babbits sells it for just under 900 bucks. comes with 33mm crank, new clutch, new belt, and all gaskets and seals to put it together.
so is anybody else out there already running this crank kit? any luck with it? obviously i will still need to send the new clutch in to get balanced, and i am looking into new cases. im just wondering if this is a permenant fix for the torque monster, or if its like putting a band aid on in a rain storm. if its just going to break again, i may as well not ride the rest of the year, and save my pennys until i can get one of Indy Dans.
any thougths are appreciated.
 
IndyDan's TM1 is this crank with the third bearing added for $1500 last time I checked.
 
so is the oem crank from babbits going to eventually break without the third bearing, or is the third bearing just an added bonus?
 
My riding buddy has the updated 32mm kit in his sled with over 1,000 miles on it and no problems. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it personally based on observation. With a new clutch and belt it definitely is a good bang for the buck:beer;
 
so is the oem crank from babbits going to eventually break without the third bearing, or is the third bearing just an added bonus?

third bearing just helps spread the load out from the clutch. It could last forever if your clutch is perfectly balanced and your not running the slp pipe and flash.
 
so your saying the slp pipe is bad because of higher rpm's right. i need to buy new weights for my clutch anyways, so couldn't i go a little heavier and keep the R's down? Thanks

thanks for the insight on the crank 94fordguy. that is what i was hoping to hear.
 
so your saying the slp pipe is bad because of higher rpm's right. i need to buy new weights for my clutch anyways, so couldn't i go a little heavier and keep the R's down? Thanks

thanks for the insight on the crank 94fordguy. that is what i was hoping to hear.

If everything is perfectly Balanced the SLP pipe is no problem. If the clutch is even 1 gram out of balance the forces on the crank increase exponentially with the additional RPM's and cause the crank to eventually fail. Think of someone beating on the end of your crank with a hammer 8000 times a minute.

CPI pipes and Dynoport pipes do not reflash the computer for higher RPM's. I have a CPI on my 900 and I am still running the very first stock crank they made and it hasn't snapped and it was still in spec when I checked the run out this year.
 
been talking to indydan this morning, and its looking like im going to end up doing his TM1 bottom end.
 
been talking to indydan this morning, and its looking like im going to end up doing his TM1 bottom end.

i that is probably the best deal for the money, then you know your clutch will be balanced right too.
 
so your saying the slp pipe is bad because of higher rpm's right. i need to buy new weights for my clutch anyways, so couldn't i go a little heavier and keep the R's down?

If you look at the dyno charts of the SLP pipes they only make more power at the very top of the RPM Range, They actually make less power than the stock pipe at lower RPM's, so spinning a 900 engine slower with an SLP pipe will actually make them perform worse than with a stock pipe.

The CPI and Dynoport pipes both make about 10 hp more than stock over the entire RPM range but make slightly less max horsepower than the SLP.
 
Need a crank and rods for a 05 RMK 900 151 any ideas?

Hello, I bought a bone stock 05 RMK 900 151 with only 101 miles on it in mint condition off of craiglist. When I got sled I checked it over, all the updates had been done and everything looked great and it ran great for 4 miles, then it locked up solid. Put PB Blaster in cylinders and got it freed up but it was still turning rough. So I had a shop tear it down yesterday, the crank and rods are out so need to replace those any ideas on why and what I am looking at for this repair? Should I do upgrade it with something aftermarket? Any help is appreciated thanks in advance.
 
i just got done talking to indydan about my bottom end. but if you send him all your bottom end parts, he can send you a complete assembled TM1 bottom end for around 1600 bucks. thats if your case halfs are good. and that price includeds the new updated 32mm crank, new clutch, new belt and all gaskets. pretty good deal really. and it comes back to you assembled ready to bolt your cylinders on. give dan a call, he will help you out.
 
i just got done talking to indydan about my bottom end. but if you send him all your bottom end parts, he can send you a complete assembled TM1 bottom end for around 1600 bucks. thats if your case halfs are good. and that price includeds the new updated 32mm crank, new clutch, new belt and all gaskets. pretty good deal really. and it comes back to you assembled ready to bolt your cylinders on. give dan a call, he will help you out.

Yup, if you do it yourself you are going to have around 900-1000 in parts. Plus unless you buy new cases you will have to have them tested by a shop to make sure they are within spec. Then you will still have to send your clutch off and get it balanced right $125 plus shipping and you will have to assemble the cases correctly or it will fail again in no time. When you get it from Dan it will be done right, the clutch will have the best balance available and your crank will have an additional bearing added to help handle the load from the clutch. Altogether you would end up spending about the same money to do it yourself and it won't be as good.
 
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