Just wondering if anyone knows exactly when the break in period is up on the engine? I have read on other posts that it is 3 hrs. Other people say 100 miles. Others say 10 hrs. What's the truth?
Break in period on a '09 xp?
- Thread starter 925Tundra
- Start date
Tonnes of other threads on this, noone knows for sure, not even the dealers. Maybe someone could contact brp and put this question to rest?
nate
nate
W
Wyoming T/A
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Break in?
I've had ski-doos forever, and if you want a stock sled, or any sled to run better than the next then you must break that sled in for at least 200 miles.
Start out with about 50 real easy miles, preferably on trails, then some powder is ok, but never do WOT for longer than 20 or 30 secs before 200 mi.(this is hard to do!). The real key to the break in is slowly easing in and out of the throttle as much as possible. And don't forget the extra oil in the fuel for the first 2 tanks. The end result will be a crisp responsive throttle, and long engine life. I ride a stock 07 summit X that beats 50 lb lighter stock xp's on trail all day long. Good luck and ride safe.
I've had ski-doos forever, and if you want a stock sled, or any sled to run better than the next then you must break that sled in for at least 200 miles.
Start out with about 50 real easy miles, preferably on trails, then some powder is ok, but never do WOT for longer than 20 or 30 secs before 200 mi.(this is hard to do!). The real key to the break in is slowly easing in and out of the throttle as much as possible. And don't forget the extra oil in the fuel for the first 2 tanks. The end result will be a crisp responsive throttle, and long engine life. I ride a stock 07 summit X that beats 50 lb lighter stock xp's on trail all day long. Good luck and ride safe.
there is no break in just ride it
No.
Extra oil in the first tank (dealer is supposed to do it). Warm it up good. Drive it how you're going to drive it. Baby'n any engine when new does not help. You need to load both sides of the rings hard to get a proper seal and break-in.
As for the break-in.....it's a short program on a timer in your ECM that holds the timing back 2 degrees for a pre-determined period of time....which nobody seems to know. When that time is up.....you get full timing. To be honest...I've never felt a difference on ANY Doo i've owned since 01.
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I was told 3 hrs over 3000 rpm but who knows.
S
snowmobiler
Well-known member
i heard its after the first cat spanks your azz on the hill.which aint very long
i heard its after the first cat spanks your azz on the hill.which aint very long
Good one, haha!
ride it like your gonna ride every time you go out with a face full of snow from following me!!!
i heard its after the first cat spanks your azz on the hill.which aint very long
hell ya!!!!!!
Break in??? Ya...right
OK, so I get my azz handed to me by a Arctic sac. Tis ok. My sled is not broke in yet.
ride it like your gonna ride every time you go out with a face full of snow from following me!!!
Hey there "dill pickle" we shall see who eats bark first tomorrow!!lol
Thanks for the answer I'll double check in the '09 manual to see. I have just questioned with all of the other post on here.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !
Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.
If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.
How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??
From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.
The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.
There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!
If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!
An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What's The Best Way To Break-In A New Engine ??
The Short Answer: Run it Hard !
Why ??
Nowadays, the piston ring seal is really what the break in process is all about. Contrary to popular belief, piston rings don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. Ring tension is necessary only to "scrape" the oil to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber.
If you think about it, the ring exerts maybe 5-10 lbs of spring tension against the cylinder wall ...
How can such a small amount of spring tension seal against thousands of
PSI (Pounds Per Square Inch) of combustion pressure ??
Of course it can't.
How Do Rings Seal Against Tremendous Combustion Pressure ??
From the actual gas pressure itself !! It passes over the top of the ring, and gets behind it to force it outward against the cylinder wall. The problem is that new rings are far from perfect and they must be worn in quite a bit in order to completely seal all the way around the bore. If the gas pressure is strong enough during the engine's first miles of operation (open that throttle !!!), then the entire ring will wear into
the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well as possible.
The Problem With "Easy Break In" ...
The honed crosshatch pattern in the cylinder bore acts like a file to allow the rings to wear. The rings quickly wear down the "peaks" of this roughness, regardless of how hard the engine is run.
There's a very small window of opportunity to get the rings to seal really well ... the first 20 miles !!
If the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re hone the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.
Fortunately, most new sportbike owners can't resist the urge to "open it up" once or twice,
which is why more engines don't have this problem !!
An additional factor that you may not have realized, is that the person at the dealership who set up your bike probably blasted your brand new bike pretty hard on the "test run". So, without realizing it, that adrenaline crazed set - up mechanic actually did you a huge favor !!
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