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Brand new out of the box 2012 splined driveshaft way out of true!!!

I misinterpreted your original post....was thinking driver surface.
Now add in the variance in the cast lower pulley. I havnt got the dial indicator out but watching the pulley spin at low speed it reminded me more of a camshaft. Whether its the shaft or the pulley I dont know. I dont know enough about these belts to know how precise their pulleys need to be, but I would think it quite forgiving as long as it stays within proper tension parameters.
Well I know enough that if their to tight they'll take bearings out an an accelerated rate and the fact that it's wider than a chain doesn't help matters for the camshaft motion going on the end of the driveshaft , and also weakens the strength of the belt with that camshaft twisting . Might as well hit the clutch with a BFH , that might balance it out .
 
why wouldn't you spin it with bearings on the shaft like when mounted in the sled? i have found is that the outside of the bearing will move and follow the wobble if the ends are out of true making it easy to see. if this was simply an offset then the v-blocks would work fine, but what i am seeing is a wobble, not an offset. a v-block sitting directly on the shaft will hide this. can you fixture it so the bearings are sitting in your v-blocks?

also, just to clarify....i am NOT talking about runout at the drivers while spinning the shaft with this thread. i think some are confusing it for that. the drivers are running plenty true on all the ones i have checked. I am talking about runout (wobble) on the outer edge of the splined drive end in relation to the the chaincase bearing in the factory location on the shaft. the reason this is so critical is because this will have a direct impact on your belt drive tension. in order to measure this runout with a dial indicator a sleeve or a collar needs to be put over the splines.
There is some movement in the bearings themselves and the way they are held in the tunnel eliminates most of it. Trying to indicate a shaft supported by spherical bearings isn't accurate in my opinion for this reason. You can easily check runout on the splined ends with the right tip on your indicator. I would be curious to see if the runout changed once the driveshaft was installed in the tunnel.......
 
There is some movement in the bearings themselves and the way they are held in the tunnel eliminates most of it. Trying to indicate a shaft supported by spherical bearings isn't accurate in my opinion for this reason. You can easily check runout on the splined ends with the right tip on your indicator. I would be curious to see if the runout changed once the driveshaft was installed in the tunnel.......

Why wouldn't it be accurate? you are checking it the way it is mounted in the sled. Does your driveshaft sit in v-blocks when installed in the sled? No. Just bolting an out of true driveshaft in the tunnell is not going to make the problem go away. I guess you can do that and just close your eyes and pretend it was never there, lol. all that will do is transfer the wobble into the bearings, tunnell, and pulley.
 
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I feel its not accurate because you aren't loading the bearings the same way they are loaded when installed in the chassis. This also eliminates any chance the runout is coming from the bearings themselves also known as tolerance stacking ......maybe this is your problem???
 
I feel its not accurate because you aren't loading the bearings the same way they are loaded when installed in the chassis. This also eliminates any chance the runout is coming from the bearings themselves also known as tolerance stacking ......maybe this is your problem???

.015" runout coming from a new bearing? Sorry but your post makes no sense. i know exactly what the problem is....the end of the shaft is out of true from manufacuring....period. it is very obvious. It is not the bearings. These are brand new NTN bearings and there is no runout in them. i have spun it with other bearings as well. the only thing that bolting this shaft into the sled will accomplish is wear the bearings quicker, distort the tunnel while spinning, and give you a nice wobble out on the belt drive pulley which will translate into a bunch of belt drive headaches.
 
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You guys keep going with this dial indicator thing and your gonna open up a whole new can of worms .
Besides the driveshaft you might as well check those new pulleys . And while your at it check out that new two piece jackshaft with a load applied to it .
 
Not surprised that the shaft is screwed up. My buddies 12 was losing brakes and the pucks were shot. Figured the rotor was warped. He ordered new brake pads, couldn't get a rotor in time, so we could go riding. right after he put them on we were talking about the rotor being warped but he had never looked at it while running. He fired it up and it wobbled really bad. got him enough brake for the weekend. Took it to the dealer to get a new rotor. They put a new rotor in it and it still wobbled. The shaft was bent right on the end. If somone at the factory was carrying it, and dropped it, you couldn't bend it like that.
 
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